will d2 rust easily?

Decent in my limited experience. I lost my Morpho in the back of my car a year or so ago, and that's a pretty salty, humid environment because I worked on saltwater fishtanks for a living then. Everything metal in that car rusted up... but not the knife! It's also seen a few years use as an EDC with no problems. I've heard other hearsay that it is better than most other "non stainless" steels in that regard, but I'd be very interested in other people's opinions. I don't think it would've been a good choice when I worked on the beach or cut fish all summer though...
 
ive had some rust, if you get a d2 blade I would suggest getting one with a black coating
 
Ask the same question in the Traditional forum. Lots of owners of Queen's D2 blades there (including me). I think you'll find it doesn't ordinarily rust very easily, and patinas a little bit. It's often referred to as a 'non-stainless' steel, but it's just barely not stainless. For the most part, it does pretty well. As with any steel though, there can always be exceptions (acids, chlorides, chemicals, sweat/body chemistry can make a difference for some). And the blade's finish can also influence rust-resistance; polished blades do better.
 
It'll rust. Not like carbon steel where it'll go bad simply from sitting in open air, so there's no need to oil it for storage. But if you cut a piece of fruit or meat and forget to wash the blade clean it'll start pitting within the hour. Oh and D2 is notorious for pitting, so do take care of it. That being said, so long as it stays away from salt water for prolonged periods and you wipe it clean after use, it's not quite as high maintenance as say, 1095.
 
My personal experience is almost no maintenance. I have 2 Ontarios in D2, several Queen folders that ride in my sweaty pockets, and a Kershaw Tyrade, JYD II combo, and one other (too late to remember the name) that have no rust problems.

The closest I have been to rust is my JYDII in the middle of our 100+ degree summer. I sweat all the way through my jeans in my work on a daily basis. After a week of that, the JYD II has tiny (pencil dot size) rust specs on the D2 part of the blade. They easily came off when I resharpened by just rubbing the blade with an oiled cloth. If I forget to oil my carbon knife after a long day at work it will have a sheen of rust on it the next morning. Toxic sweat....

I love D2. I can rust up one of my old treasured carbon CASE knives in a few hours under the same conditions unless I oil it and blade wipe every single day. I carry my carbon knives this time of the year since it is cooler and minimum blade maintenance is required. I won't get punished if I forget.

I am back to D2 or other stainless knives in June when our fun season starts as construction workers.

Robert
 
I've got D2 blades by Bob Dozier that have seen a lot of kitchen use. No rust, not even noticeable patination.
I do wash and dry kitchen knives by hand right after use, and at least rinse them off between uses in one cooking session.
 
I don't have any Dozier knives (as much as I'd like to), but all of the pics I've seen of his, they seem to have a satin finish to them. Reminds me of the 'as ground' finish seen on some others, with grind marks clearly visible.
 
Yes, mine are polished, which does offer more protection than bead blast, for example. They aren't mirror polished, though.
 
Yes, thanks. I thought so. D2 is very difficult and time consuming to mirror polish. He does a decent polish on it and your right this helps. DM
 
David Martin said:
Yes, thanks. I thought so. D2 is very difficult and time consuming to mirror polish. He does a decent polish on it and your right this helps. DM
Click to expand...
Really? I shined up my blade pretty easily with a buffing wheel and a bar of Formax White Lightning Buffing Compound, which I believe is the same stuff used on the slotted paper wheels. Now S30V is a MAJOR pain to polish. Doesn't seem too hard to polish up the edge, but the blade simply refuses to shine.
 
Silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper on leather, up through 2000 grit and beyond has worked very well on my Queen D2 blades, for polishing up. I was expecting more difficulty, the first time I tried that, but it seemed quite a bit easier than I assumed it would be. I've taken them further with Simichrome and/or 1 micron diamond paste on wood and/or leather.
 
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