Will LANSKY and SHARPMAKER play nice together?

T

tuffluv

Joined
Feb 24, 2015
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Considering purchasing the Lansky w/diamond stones for re-setting edges and the Sharpmaker for touch-ups and maintenance.

From reading here and some experimentation with a borrowed Lansky stem, the pre-set degrees-per-side angles (30, 25, 20, and 17) are not exactly...exact...and can be off by several degrees.

The Sharpmaker can be set to 20 and 15 degrees per side and I assume these angles do not vary like the Lansky.


Knowing that the angle obtained from the Lansky might not match that of the Sharpmaker, can these two systems work together in harmony?
 
I would forego the Lansky for a KME you can get much more precise angles, if you use it with an angle cube.
 
You can reprofile with the Lansky set to 20 (actual angle 15-17 degrees) and use the Sharpmaker to maintain. As darks posted, the KME would be better.
 
Even a freebie phone level app can be fairly close to and angle cube. And I'm going to say jump to KME also. If you are interested enough in sharpening to want actually re-profile and such, it's much more fun to get amazing repeatable results right from the start.
 
Yes, they will work 'in harmony'.

I prefer the DMT Deluxe Aligner over the Lansky; more flexible and expandable for the money.

Use the SM to keep the edge sharp. Use the Lansky/DMT/KME/xxx system to repair, restore, and reprofile.
 
I keep seeing people recommending the KME. I thought it was supposed to be a good clamp system that wasn't as expensive as the Edge Pro, yet did a good job, and was better than the Lansky. I hadn't really researched it until a few minutes ago.

Now I'm more confused. It's essentially the same price as the Edge Pro Apex once you add in the base. Just over $200. Which is NOTHING like a Lansky price-wise. Lanksys start at $40 and are around $60-ish for the diamond kit.

I understand that the KME is supposed to be built way better than the Lansky. But the "budget" aspect of it seems to not be there at all. Why would someone choose the KME over the Edge Pro? Diamond stones versus the Edge Pro water stones? Clamp versus table?

The main thing for me is, the KME doesn't seem to be in the same class as the Lansky at all.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
I understand that the KME is supposed to be built way better than the Lansky. But the "budget" aspect of it seems to not be there at all. Why would someone choose the KME over the Edge Pro? Diamond stones versus the Edge Pro water stones? Clamp versus table?

The main thing for me is, the KME doesn't seem to be in the same class as the Lansky at all.

Brian.
Click to expand...

Your'e right, the KME is not in the same class as the Lansky...much higher value and precision for not too much more after you build up all the parts to come close the the achievable edge. I just looked at the KME site, and the new slightly higher price for the KME is with the base, extra coarse stone, and roo strop included. It's a set up that a relative novice sharpener can start getting some pretty refined edges with.

As for the difference between KME and EP, I would say the KME lands right in the perfect spot between the Edge Pro and Wicked Edge. You have a portable, holdable, clamped system, that can deliver rivaling the others. I'm not saying anything bad about any of them because they all have their pro's and con's, both with functionality and price.

Personally I have both the EP and KME (as well as multiple Sharpmaker's). For an average knife without really funky nuances, I grab the KME. Maybe it's just because I'm lazy, and it's easier to just grab out of the box and work an edge while sitting in bed watching tv. Personally, I like the clamped knife, because you don't have to worry about every movement changing that angle. Even a slight angle change (and I mean tiny) between flips from side to side can make the difference between an average (or less) edge, and an amazing one.

But....I still use the EP for a number of knives. One of the EP's advantages is that you can move the blade around to work a blade that is a little different than average. Large knives, some with really odd curves, odd shapes and such...then this is my go-to system. It allows you to apply a little craftsmanship in the process.

And least but not last....the SM. You can really extend the life of a knife if you don't reprofile and remove a bunch of metal any more than you need to. Use the SM to hone that edge/bevel that you already made perfect on a guided system. But this isn't a no brainer with a learning curve either. Because not every knife comes in right at 15/30 or 20/40 degrees. In fact, very few knives I've worked on are right on those angles. So then you have to either find the random angle to hold the knife through the stroke (not easy to do), or just use it as a hone to touch up or add a micro bevel. I use the fine and extra fine rods the most.

Sorry about being long winded. It's just that I went through the early learning curve very frustrated and wanted to achieve amazing results, with the simplicity of a pocket pull-through sharpener. Just not possible. Each system has a learning curve. Each have areas where they really shine. But the super budget big box products will usually give you a super budget end result.

I should add that I have not tried the WE just yet, mostly because of price. But if I had the money, no doubt I'd have one of them also. I am pretty impressed with the set-up and all the downline options. But I'd probably spend myself into oblivion before even getting it mastered.
 
Lansky is a tool that clamps the knife in a fixed position in one end – in the other end of the tool you choose an angle – and the angle will also be fixed. If you now handle the tool correct the edge cannot be anything else then 100% flat. Lets say that you make a edge in 15 degrees per side = 30 degree total edge.

Then you use a tool where the knife is not fixed, the knife moves free – and the tool are fixed. This means that you cannot hold a fixed angle and sharpen the edge in exactly 15 degrees, no one can do that.

The result will be that the edge, that was perfectly flat, after this sharpening, will no longer hold 15 degrees, perhaps it hold 15,1 degrees instead on its cutting edge = 31 degree total edge. You have now got a secondary edge, the main edge still holds 15 degrees and the thin secondary edge holds 15,1 degrees.

Then, you use the Lansky again and sharpen in 15 degrees – and the sharpener can no longer reach the cutting edge because the edge is 0,1 degree lower then the main edge. To reach the cutting edge you must then grind away material from the main edge until you reach the cutting edge again.Now the edge holds 15 degrees again – and are 100 % flat.

It works like that.

If you use a Lansky, and Lansky is a very nice tool to use – use it every time you sharpen – and sharpen always in the same degrees you use the first time – and you will only take away very little material from the blade.

Then, how sharp an edge will be is not decided by the tool you use. The sharpeners decide how sharp the edge will be. Very fine sharpeners will give you a very sharp edge.

Sharpening tools only give you the fixed angle. If the knifes are fixed in the tool – and the sharpener angle also are fixed in the same tool – the result will be a 100% flat edge. It cannot be anything else then that. (Any tool that work like this will give you a 100% flat and straight edge).

To make it faster to maintain, make an edge in 15 degrees in step 1. Then make a new edge in 17 degrees in step 2.
This edge shall be 2-3 tens of 1 millimeter wide = when you, with your naked edge can see that the edge is there, it is finish. You then maintain this edge in 17 degrees very easy with a very fine sharpener, and use your Lansky to do it. Just slide the sharpener along the edge 2-3 times on each side – and the edge are perfect again – in 17 degrees.

Thomas
 
It was simple back when I was a young man...when my knife got dull, I got my stone and sharpened it.

I didn't even know how big the carbides were in that old Schrade Walden Trapper.

I'm not sure how I skinned all those squirrels and coons and possums and ground hogs, or field dressed deer and castrated calves, all with the same knife.

I'm glad I've seen the light. :)
 
Coonskinner, you describe is the traditional way of using and sharpen knifes. Few peolple use their knifes that way today.

More then 90 % of the population today lives in citys and use knifes for the material that are in use in citys. Few citypeople today have skinned a squirrel. 10 % lives outside citys and they use knifes the traditional way.

It is nothing wrong with that - but today, I think, we have two major ways of using knifes, the traditional way and the urban way. Knifes today are mostly used the urban way with all that new materials you find in city life. You never, for example, cut cardboard when you was young, or nylon strings, dry wood, and so on...

You never shaved your self with your knife :) you did not even think about it. Your knife was as sharp it needed to be dor its purpouse, not sharper,mor duller, then that - and your edge holds for a long time for the type of work you use the knife ro do. Am I wrong?

Thomas

I describe my experiance from Scandinavia and Europe of cause. Here the traditional way of using knifes are more or less unknown today. Our old traditional edges hold around 20 degrees total edge - today edges around 40 degrees are common and people do things with their knifes their knifes today that makes their forefathers rotade in their graves.
 
bgentry said:
I keep seeing people recommending the KME. I thought it was supposed to be a good clamp system that wasn't as expensive as the Edge Pro, yet did a good job, and was better than the Lansky. I hadn't really researched it until a few minutes ago.

Now I'm more confused. It's essentially the same price as the Edge Pro Apex once you add in the base. Just over $200. Which is NOTHING like a Lansky price-wise. Lanksys start at $40 and are around $60-ish for the diamond kit.

I understand that the KME is supposed to be built way better than the Lansky. But the "budget" aspect of it seems to not be there at all. Why would someone choose the KME over the Edge Pro? Diamond stones versus the Edge Pro water stones? Clamp versus table?

The main thing for me is, the KME doesn't seem to be in the same class as the Lansky at all.

Brian.
Click to expand...

You're right, the KME isn't in the same class as the Lansky. When I was in the market for a sharpener I was looking at the Edge Pro System and the Wicked Edge, I didn't like the Edge Pro because it wasn't a clamped system, I didn't want to buy a WE because of the price of the initial system and all of the aftermarket stones are expensive. So, when I found the KME, I basically found half of a WE and that's where the budget portion of it comes in. It's not budget in comparison to a Lansky, it's budget in comparison to a WE and you can get the same results. One nice thing about the KME over the Lansky and the Sharpmaker is that it's a sharpening system that can grow. The KME I purchased actually came with the Arkansas stones for $140, you can still find them on amazon and a few other places despite the fact they were discontinued, since then I have purchased the 4micron and 1.5 micron emulsions and strops and built my own stones for sharpening recurves and serrated blades (basically sharpmaker rods broken down to size). I now have a system that will do everything from reprofile to polish and I still don't have as much in it as I would a WE system.
 
tuffluv said:
Considering purchasing the Lansky w/diamond stones for re-setting edges and the Sharpmaker for touch-ups and maintenance.
Click to expand...
A good combination in my opinion (and experience, such as it is). I have these. I find the Lansky fiddly to set up, but it gets good results and I've been able get nice consistent angles on any knife I've tried so far. The down side is that it's slow to use, especially with the finer stones. Since I bought the Sharpmaker I've hardly used the Lansky. Last time was to restore the bevel on a kitchen knife prior to final sharpening with the Sharpmaker. Note I bought the 5 stone "Deluxe" Lansky kit, if I was starting from scratch now I would go for the basic diamond kit and not worry about the extra fine grades.

Tony S
 
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