Will my Manix 2 loosen up?

BlueSpartan007

BlueSpartan007

Joined
Dec 23, 2015
Messages
227
I got a Manix 2 a few months back, a G10 version, and it came a little tight. Of course all knives start a little stiff, and need a break in period. I feel like I've passed that period, though. In comparison to the the Griptilian I received a couple weeks ago from a fellow member, the Axis Lock is much looser when releasing the lock than Spyderco's Ball Bearing Lock on my Manix. Not a huge deal, and won't stop me from carrying the Manix, but I feel I'll favor the Griptilian from here on out (when speaking of the locks, and attempting to keep biased opinion out of it).

What are you're guys' experience with the Manix 2? How loose does the Manix lock get? After being broken in? In comparison to Benchmade's Axis Lock?
 
I think they are just different man. BM axis locks have always been great. Most of them I had were super easy to operate. Im somewhat in the beginner phase of trying out some spydercos, and while the manix seems to be a popular series I dont love mine. Its a good knife but I slways have the native 5 on me, or grab a pm2. My manix lock is a little harder to release.
Best of luck.
 
Yeah, I've kind of come to that conclusion myself. Plus the studs on Grip feel way better than the "studs" on the Manix, especially over time and for how stiff the Manix is. Pm2 is definitely along the list. Thanks for the input.
 
All 3 of mine have broken in nicely. All exhibt blades that will swing shut when disengaged, and smooth opening. I have also tweaked the pivot on all three to that perfect spot.
Maybe try loosening the pivot slightly.

Also, the spring in the CBBL is definitely stronger than BMs omegas, so manipulating the lock will always require more effort. I kind of find it a little more reassuring.
 
Well on the bright side, my Native took more than a month to break in! Maybe open and close it a little more should fix the issue

-Kevin
 
Get some Sentry Solutions lube, great stuff for tight pivots & it dries without an oily film while still lubricating & protecting. Every knife that I've had that comes stiff like that seems to respond well to that lube. Or go to a hardware store & get some blue locktight remove the pivot pin, apply the blue stuff & adjust the pivot to your desired feel. Just my 2c. Hope it breaks in for jooo.
 
Coming from someone who owns 2 BM grips, and a g10 manix, I will tell you that after a few hundred times opening and closing it, It should be loose enough to swing freely when the lock is disengaged. And the spring for when you release the lock will loosen up and it will be easier to disengage. But remember, Based on the mechanics of the lock, then ball bearing lock will NEVER be as easy to disengage as the griptillian. A few drops of oil never hurts to "smoothen" the lock..
 
BlueSpartan007 said:
I got a Manix 2 a few months back, a G10 version, and it came a little tight. Of course all knives start a little stiff, and need a break in period. I feel like I've passed that period, though. In comparison to the the Griptilian I received a couple weeks ago from a fellow member, the Axis Lock is much looser when releasing the lock than Spyderco's Ball Bearing Lock on my Manix. Not a huge deal, and won't stop me from carrying the Manix, but I feel I'll favor the Griptilian from here on out (when speaking of the locks, and attempting to keep biased opinion out of it).

What are you're guys' experience with the Manix 2? How loose does the Manix lock get? After being broken in? In comparison to Benchmade's Axis Lock?
Click to expand...

From my experience, it's all relative to the exact knife you're holding in your hand. My first Manix 2 XL was perfect. Lock disengaged as easily as any Axis Lock I've actuated and was a perfect example of the ball bearing lock.

The problem? I fudged it up during a disassembly when my tool slipped and gouged the housing for the ball bearing. I sent it into Spyderco and they replaced it with a new housing but for whatever reason (I believe the plastic was not cut as flush as the first housing) its got really strong detent now. To the point that my friends (who have baby non-knife nut hands :D ) and my wife can't even disengage the lock!
 
I much prefer the Spyderco caged bearing's stronger blade (closed) retention to the many axis-locked Benchmades I've had. I have no concerns at all carrying my Manix 2 tip up blade forward in my pocket whereas I will not do that with an axis lock.

 
I've had a Manix 2 LWT for a long time now and its never really loosened up or smoothed out. Loosening the pivot just a bit leads to blade play. Unfortunately, with pinned construction, there's not much more I can do as a user. I've handled a Manix XL that while smoother and looser than my LWT, was never as loose as an Axis. I think ChrisKnife nailed it when he chalked it up to variations in the Ball Lock Housing. That would make sense why some are looser than others and some never seem to loosen up.

Personally, I'm not in love with the Manix 2. I quit carrying mine a while ago and if I need a larger Spyderco I'll carry a PM2. It speaks volumes about the Compression lock for Spyderco to be transitioning so many new designs to that lock, like the Sage 5 or the Minuteman. There's even rumors that Spyderco has Compression Lock flippers in the works. Can't wait to see those!
 
sinkrate said:
Well on the bright side, my Native took more than a month to break in! Maybe open and close it a little more should fix the issue

-Kevin
Click to expand...

blades&wrenches said:
All 3 of mine have broken in nicely. All exhibt blades that will swing shut when disengaged, and smooth opening. I have also tweaked the pivot on all three to that perfect spot.
Maybe try loosening the pivot slightly.

Also, the spring in the CBBL is definitely stronger than BMs omegas, so manipulating the lock will always require more effort. I kind of find it a little more reassuring.
Click to expand...

baliflipper02 said:
Coming from someone who owns 2 BM grips, and a g10 manix, I will tell you that after a few hundred times opening and closing it, It should be loose enough to swing freely when the lock is disengaged. And the spring for when you release the lock will loosen up and it will be easier to disengage. But remember, Based on the mechanics of the lock, then ball bearing lock will NEVER be as easy to disengage as the griptillian. A few drops of oil never hurts to "smoothen" the lock..
Click to expand...

I'm going to try adjusting the pivot today, maybe oil it up a bit. See if carrying it more often does the trick, can't hurt. I definitely see where it is reassuring, and I had bought the G10 version instead of the LW because it's a little heavier duty for tasks that call for that. I would reach for the Manix over my Grip when I know I'm gonna have some heavier tasks that day, but along the lines of an edc, I feel the Grip will see more time.
 
Paul Hart said:
Get some Sentry Solutions lube, great stuff for tight pivots & it dries without an oily film while still lubricating & protecting. Every knife that I've had that comes stiff like that seems to respond well to that lube. Or go to a hardware store & get some blue locktight remove the pivot pin, apply the blue stuff & adjust the pivot to your desired feel. Just my 2c. Hope it breaks in for jooo.
Click to expand...

Might just have to pick some of this up on my next order.
 
ChrisKnife said:
From my experience, it's all relative to the exact knife you're holding in your hand. My first Manix 2 XL was perfect. Lock disengaged as easily as any Axis Lock I've actuated and was a perfect example of the ball bearing lock.

The problem? I fudged it up during a disassembly when my tool slipped and gouged the housing for the ball bearing. I sent it into Spyderco and they replaced it with a new housing but for whatever reason (I believe the plastic was not cut as flush as the first housing) its got really strong detent now. To the point that my friends (who have baby non-knife nut hands :D ) and my wife can't even disengage the lock!
Click to expand...

Hackenslash said:
I've had a Manix 2 LWT for a long time now and its never really loosened up or smoothed out. Loosening the pivot just a bit leads to blade play. Unfortunately, with pinned construction, there's not much more I can do as a user. I've handled a Manix XL that while smoother and looser than my LWT, was never as loose as an Axis. I think ChrisKnife nailed it when he chalked it up to variations in the Ball Lock Housing. That would make sense why some are looser than others and some never seem to loosen up.

Personally, I'm not in love with the Manix 2. I quit carrying mine a while ago and if I need a larger Spyderco I'll carry a PM2. It speaks volumes about the Compression lock for Spyderco to be transitioning so many new designs to that lock, like the Sage 5 or the Minuteman. There's even rumors that Spyderco has Compression Lock flippers in the works. Can't wait to see those!
Click to expand...

Seems like a pretty reasonable explanation, ChrisKnife. Thinking that may be the case here. My 550 definitely feels better on the hand over time than my Manix, but I can definitely open my Manix! haha. Hackenslash: Never owned a compression lock, but my next Spyderco (ahead of a Delica) will probably be a Pm2 or a Yojimbo 2, so I'll have my opinion of them soon enough either way! Man, they look smooth.
 
ChrisKnife said:
From my experience, it's all relative to the exact knife you're holding in your hand. My first Manix 2 XL was perfect. Lock disengaged as easily as any Axis Lock I've actuated and was a perfect example of the ball bearing lock.

The problem? I fudged it up during a disassembly when my tool slipped and gouged the housing for the ball bearing. I sent it into Spyderco and they replaced it with a new housing but for whatever reason (I believe the plastic was not cut as flush as the first housing) its got really strong detent now. To the point that my friends (who have baby non-knife nut hands :D ) and my wife can't even disengage the lock!
Click to expand...

Hackenslash said:
I've had a Manix 2 LWT for a long time now and its never really loosened up or smoothed out. Loosening the pivot just a bit leads to blade play. Unfortunately, with pinned construction, there's not much more I can do as a user. I've handled a Manix XL that while smoother and looser than my LWT, was never as loose as an Axis. I think ChrisKnife nailed it when he chalked it up to variations in the Ball Lock Housing. That would make sense why some are looser than others and some never seem to loosen up.

Personally, I'm not in love with the Manix 2. I quit carrying mine a while ago and if I need a larger Spyderco I'll carry a PM2. It speaks volumes about the Compression lock for Spyderco to be transitioning so many new designs to that lock, like the Sage 5 or the Minuteman. There's even rumors that Spyderco has Compression Lock flippers in the works. Can't wait to see those!
Click to expand...

Officer's Match said:
I much prefer the Spyderco caged bearing's stronger blade (closed) retention to the many axis-locked Benchmades I've had. I have no concerns at all carrying my Manix 2 tip up blade forward in my pocket whereas I will not do that with an axis lock.

Click to expand...

Really? I feel the Grip has enough retention, at least for how smooth it is. Although it's nowhere near my Manix, but I still carry it tip up. Pretty sweet scales. :thumbup:
 
BlueSpartan007 said:
Really? I feel the Grip has enough retention, at least for how smooth it is. Although it's nowhere near my Manix, but I still carry it tip up. Pretty sweet scales. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Speaking of grip, those honeycomb scales are a lot grippier than I imagined they would be. I'm really digging that one.
 
I found the CBB lock more sticky due to a small lip on the lock tang. It was a deal breaker on my LW S110V and I returned it. But I've now got a G10 S110V Manix and the lock felt the same when new. However because you can disassemble the G10 Manixs I honed the lip off the lock tang and now it's great.
Certainly stiffer than a axis lock. But I like the CBBL more now as it's more reassuring. I can flick it open and closed all day long now. A few new calluses help too on my index finger and thumb.

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
 
I tried adjusting the pivot, but I think it's in the best spot right now without creating blade play. I'm thinking about disassembling it, just see what I can discover if anything. Get some lube or use the oil I have and oil up the pivot. Are you talking about the part of the tang that slides past the ball bearing when disengaging the lock? Callouses would help, your fingers have it pretty easy with a Grip, so the switch off between the two probably isn't helping, haha.
 
I'm thinking it's just what it is. The idea that each knife is different could be it, especially if (ChrisKnife mentioned) someone who's handled a couple had different experiences. I knew it wouldn't be the same as the Axis Lock, but I thought it'd get closer than it is. The knife and action is very smooth, I think the spring is just much more stiff/takes more effort, and that certainly makes sense. It is quite reassuring. Thanks for all the input!
 
I have only one manix 2 and it is the lightweight bd1 translucent. Have owned it for more than one year and it is still kind of stiff, definitely wont free fall when the lock is pulled back hard. Adjusting pivot doesnt help. I asuume it is just the type of lock. Not necessarily a bad thing though.
 
sharp_edge said:
I have only one manix 2 and it is the lightweight bd1 translucent. Have owned it for more than one year and it is still kind of stiff, definitely wont free fall when the lock is pulled back hard. Adjusting pivot doesnt help. I asuume it is just the type of lock. Not necessarily a bad thing though.
Click to expand...

Really? I can usually get mine to free fall, but the only thing really preventing it is the stiffness of the lock. Are you talking stiffness of the lock or the pivot, or maybe even both?
 
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