I have some Fisher MM2 trip springs (27406) from a snowplow and I was wondering if anyone knew if these would forge harden like other spring steels. Would this steel harden at about the same heat as 5160 or is it too low carbon to even harden? There is hardly any information that I can find as to the composition of this steel so I anyone has my insight that would be great. Thanks for any help you can provide me with!
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Will plow trip springs harden?
- Thread starter Theo144
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Cut a coupon and attempt to harden it. Check it with a file. Do a spark test. Snap it off in a vice and check the grain.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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I just got a chance to look it up. From what I see the coils are something near 1/4" wire?
By the strength and use description, I would guess that a 5160 HT would work fine. If the spring is higher carbon, like 1095, it will still get hard with the 5160 parameters. Try 1500°F and a 10 minute soak ( if possible). Quench in a fast oil if you have it ( if not 130°F canola will work). Temper twice at 375°F to 400°F ( I would use 400°F).
As Maelstrom suggested, take a 3-4" long piece and HT it. Check for high carbon sparks, file resistance, and break it to check for fine grain.
By the strength and use description, I would guess that a 5160 HT would work fine. If the spring is higher carbon, like 1095, it will still get hard with the 5160 parameters. Try 1500°F and a 10 minute soak ( if possible). Quench in a fast oil if you have it ( if not 130°F canola will work). Temper twice at 375°F to 400°F ( I would use 400°F).
As Maelstrom suggested, take a 3-4" long piece and HT it. Check for high carbon sparks, file resistance, and break it to check for fine grain.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
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What are you going to forge from them? Was I right the the wire is about 1/4"/6mm round?
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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That is better. You could forge them flat and stack, twist five or six into a tight twist and forge weld them, or what I would do - straighten out and cut into 4" lengths. Fill a2X2X4" canister with the springs and 1084 powder. Weld up the canister, forge it out into a 1" round, twist it hard, and then forge/draw out into flat stock. Fold a few times if you want.
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1/4" wire is my go-to for small utility blades (although in my case I use music wire, which is 1085). Anything from pen-knife size up to maybe 2.5". They are easy to forge and heat treat, and they are super handy. I've sold quite a few of them within medieval reenactment circles.
I haven't bothered to forge weld any of the stuff, but I can see how it would be a fun project
I haven't bothered to forge weld any of the stuff, but I can see how it would be a fun project