Will this thing loosen up?

F

fignozzle

Joined
Sep 19, 2002
Messages
34
Hi all,

I'm primarily a handgunner, trying to expand my self-defense options into bladecraft and MMA.

I'm mostly after an EDC, but have gotten some decent defensive folders so far:

Timberline Kelly Worden Tactical PE (large) w/"wood" grips
CRKT Large Crawford-Kasper partially serrated
Old Spyderco Rescue (molded clip) that I modified the point on a little (hey, it was GIVEN to me).

SO, here's my question:

I have recently bought and have been carrying a CS Large Tanto Voyager, and I really like the size. It's 4" blade, OA closed 5 1/8".

After owning it for about a week, I noticed it was MUCH stiffer to open than all of my others (had to look like I was having a Grand-Mal seizure to open it one-handed), so I lubed it with Militec-1, and it actually got WORSE!

1) What's UP with that?
2) Do CS Voyagers loosen up after a while? Do I just need to open it a few thousand times, or is there an adjustment to be done on it?

Thanks for enduring the newbie questions!
Fignozzle
 
I have a few Cold Steel folders, and yes, they will get a little easier to open after about 6000 opening/closing cycles.:D.
 
i had one for awhile and loved it. it was strong, with solid lockup. i think the stiffness comes also due to the strong lock spring that holds the blade closed. For a tip up carry this one won't poke your fingers! I used to clip to pocket, draw and snap it downward hard (as if you are throwing it to stick on the floor, but not releasing the handle at the end of the flick), it will pop up open!

As of lubricating, refer to this thread by fulloflead
 
I've noticed this after rinsing the knife with hot water. It seems to diminish after it cools down. BreakFree works well as a lube; just a drop on each side of the blade is all you need.
 
Originally posted by BaliSwinger
i think the stiffness comes also due to the strong lock spring that holds the blade closed.
Click to expand...

I agree. Lockback knives have a lot of resistance to opening the blade. For a long time I've thought that thumb studs don't belong on lockbacks. Lockbacks should have opening holes and thumb studs belong on knives with liner locks or Axis (or similar) locks.

I believe this because, in practise, with a thumb stud, people tend to "start" the knife open quickly with the stud and then their thumb leaves the stud rather than following through the opening all the way. It's tough to keep your thumb on a stud all the way open. Lockbacks with a backspring really require you to apply constant pressure throughout the opening process while liner/Axis locks offer little resistance after the ball detent is overcome.

(A wrist flick helps but with some knives like the Voyager it requires a SERIOUS wrist flick that isn't always wanted or discreet.)

Opening holes really help keep your thumb in place and, therefore, lend themselves to the follow-through needed with lockbacks.

And this is why I believe that all lockbacks should have a opening hole rather than a stud. (Spend $35 and get a SOG Autoclip with the long opening hole and see for yourself.)

The good news is that opening holes work even better with linerlocks/Axis locks! (See Spyderco Lum Tanto or Benchmade D2 Axis AFCK.)

I have a good idea that's an alternative to the thumbstud or hole but BY GOD this time I'm going to draw some pictures and patent the idea or make a deal with a maker before I see my idea used by someone else like I have before!
 
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