William Henry T10CF Blade Finish

ByronTodd

ByronTodd

Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Messages
248
I messed up my EDC William Henry T10CF by opening a package of Lansky crock sticks: the blade slipped and rubbed against the medium rod - putting a fine scratch on the face side of the blade. I finally broke down, used some 600 grit wet sandpaper with WD40 and sanded out the scratch. But then I was left with a finish that I really didn't like.

Due to some experimentation in restorations of straight razors (there's a thread at the forums of StraightRazorPlace.com), I had purchased a vibratory tumbler, and untreated walnut media which I then treated with Turtle Wax Liquid Rubbing Compound. After modding the pivot pin of the T10CF (William Henry did not want this pivot pin to ever be removed! Threadlock with two smooth sided faces means near impossible to remove), I was able to disassemble the knife. I placed the blade into the tumbler and left it running for 72 hours.

William Henry sent me a replacement pivot pin for free during that 72 hours, and the below pictures show the result of the new finish. Notice that the WH etch was untouched by this finish.

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I created a major problem in doing this. I showed the results to my father and now he's bringing me his knives which he feels could use the same treatment....
 
As I read that and looked at the picture I said "what scratch?" and then "whaaat...that's not a 600grit finish...I gotta start using WD40!" then it I got to the good part. lol

Well done. Between knives and reloading ammunition I'm really wanting a tumbler.


(I wonder if you can use well-sifted dirt as a medium. Cause after a single field brand new discs and crow-feet are polished perfectly. And while they may not be as hard as knife blades I'm pretty sure they are "soft" by any means)
 
There's a long thread on the "experimentation" of things tried and learned over there.

The goal of restoration over there is to restore mirror finishes to straight razor blades. Prior to the experimentation, that meant wet sanding or grinding/buffing. One of the "experts" progresses from 220 grit up through 3200 micro mesh grit before switching to use metal polishes. What has been gathered through experimentation so far, is that this method will not touch pitting, it will not harm etching, and it replaces the need to wet sand from 400 -> metal polishes. If you have scratches that are larger or deeper than what 400 grit sandpaper will make, then you'll need to wet sand or grind to that level before dropping your blade into the tumbler.
 
I only have about 100 knives to get to mirror finishes, do not understand his concern. 100 x 72 hours per blade + an average of 2 blades per knife, that is only 14,400 hours of tumbling. :p
Dad
 
PS, for all watching, That mirror finish on his CF T10 William Henry is a sight to behold. If any knifemakers want one on theirs, it really works.
James
 
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