Window weatherproofing help.

LEGION 12

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I have run out of ideas the windows in my apartment stink. I have used rope caulk, won't stay in for some reason anymore. Bought the seal and peel caulk it won't stay in either, can't use plastic to cover the window's cat won't have it besides I would rather not use it. I have a lot of window's plastic is too much work and will not last. Right now I have a clear insulating tape on them it's already starting to peel off. Other than moving anyone have any ideas ? Thanks in advance.
 
Condensation there is no mold before I tried anything I cleaned them with alcohol. The rope caulk used to work but refuses to stay in anymore, I also made sure to try all this stuff when it was above 40 degrees.
 
I have never had any luck with the rope or peel and stick caulk either. I just got done covering mine with the 3M insulating plastic myself, makes a huge difference and I have never had a problem with is lasting the winter.

If the temporary caulks are not sticking and you don't want to use the plastic maybe a real light coat of silicone caulk that you can easily cut through in the spring?
 
I have never had any luck with the rope or peel and stick caulk either. I just got done covering mine with the 3M insulating plastic myself, makes a huge difference and I have never had a problem with is lasting the winter.

If the temporary caulks are not sticking and you don't want to use the plastic maybe a real light coat of silicone caulk that you can easily cut through in the spring?

That is what I was thinking of doing as a last resort. The gaps are rather large the trick would be not to fill them to far in so I can remove it in the spring.
 
If you have large gaps, 1/16 to 1/8 you could get some closed cell foam weather stripping and push it in the gaps with a scraper or putty knife. That would stop a lot of the draft in itself.
 
If you have large gaps, 1/16 to 1/8 you could get some closed cell foam weather stripping and push it in the gaps with a scraper or putty knife. That would stop a lot of the draft in itself.

Thats an idea that would probably work for the larger gaps. The window's aren't that old but the building is it's settled over the years a lot causing this problem.
 
Why so much condensation? Do you have storm windows? Are you running a humidifier? Is the weather very humid right now?

I'm sure you can figure some way to seal it up that will hold even underwater, but the condensation is a problem in itself. Maybe you need to get a dehumidifier.
 
3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit
If that doesn't work you might want to talk to your landlord. You mention apartment, so it should be on them to provide a fix or at least offer up some sort of acceptable measures.
 
Why so much condensation? Do you have storm windows? Are you running a humidifier? Is the weather very humid right now?

I'm sure you can figure some way to seal it up that will hold even underwater, but the condensation is a problem in itself. Maybe you need to get a dehumidifier.

From what I can tell I'm getting condensation from many things when the wife cooks, if someone takes a shower. I do have a humidifier but this happens even when it's not in use. Even if I can remove the humidity the windows still need to be sealed. There is no storm windows but they are double pane windows a lot of good that does because of the gaps. Not all of the windows are as bad as a few. One you can see light out of one of the sides. As far as the landlord doing anything about it's not gonna happen he hasn't fixed one thing for the last 5 years I have been there. I gave up on that a long time ago I am looking for another place but it's not easy where I live .
 
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The plastic window kits work well, but only the good stuff (3M, for example) lasts very long. I use it on some hidden north-facing windows that aren't opened in the summer, and it lasts 2-3 years before it gets brittle and falls apart in the wind.
I've had good luck with rope calk, but again, only the good stuff. The cheap stuff cracks and doesn't hold. Using rope caulk that isn't fresh never works either.
A caulk gun and latex caulk is what you want for any permanent holes, like gaps around window frames or non-opening windows. I find the latex easier to remove than silicone, and it can be painted.

When tracking down every little leak, at some point the cost of all that crap is more expensive than the savings. Depending on where you live of course.

If your house has a humidity problem, it might actually be in your best interest to not seal the place up like the International Space Station. ;)
Don't use the shower or bath without the exhaust fan on. Ditto stovetop cooking. Especially if it's a small house, apartment, or trailer.

The window's aren't that old but the building is it's settled over the years a lot causing this problem.

Tell me about it. Our house, a three story Victorian, was built before 1900. We've learned to accept that the house 'breathes' and 'circulates' and sometimes becomes physically restless. We've also learned to appreciate the genius of the builders who strategically placed the hot water radiators beneath each window. :thumbup:
 
Also, your probably know this, if you have double windows (window + storm window), don't completely seal up the outside window. Humidity will be trapped between the windows, perhaps causing mold and rotting.
Commercially-made double windows should have "weep holes" to let the moisture out, and some older homes actually have open holes drilled through the sill. Don't seal or paint over these; they're there for a reason.
Modern double-pane windows are airtight sealed at the factory so that moisture can't get trapped between the layers.
 
I leave the bathroom window and at least one the kitchen unsealed just in case. I wish we had radiators I have lived in few places that did nice and toasty. At least this year someone lives downstairs so the floors aren't ice cold.Last year it was empty so the floors were freezing. Also trying to find a way to get the heat from the ceiling down no fans on the wall units.
 
If a house has drafty windows and cold outside walls combined with a wall heater that's located on an interior wall, that's about the worst-case scenario for drafts. As you probably know... The heat goes up on the interior wall, while the cold air flows down from the windows, creating a 'wind' along the floor. A stupid design, along with forced air vents on interior walls, but common in homes from the 1950s - 1970s. I guess gas and electric was free back then. :rolleyes:

Maybe supplement your primary heater with a couple of the oil-filled portable radiators. I use one in my library at nights. The library is located in a cold corner of the house that's not part of the original construction. It means we can turn the main heater down for the evening sooner, which saves a bunch. $$

Also trying to find a way to get the heat from the ceiling down no fans on the wall units.
Ceiling fan turned on Low. :thumbup:
 
If a house has drafty windows and cold outside walls combined with a wall heater that's located on an interior wall, that's about the worst-case scenario for drafts. As you probably know... The heat goes up on the interior wall, while the cold air flows down from the windows, creating a 'wind' along the floor.

Maybe supplement your primary heater with a couple of the oil-filled portable radiators. I use one in my library at nights. The library is located in a cold corner of the house that's not part of the original construction. It means we can turn the main heater down for the evening sooner, which saves a bunch. $$


Ceiling fan turned on Low. :thumbup:

No power up their at least not in the front room if it get's much worse I might have to add a couple of radiators. Every outlet and door has been sealed already. This place is so old that the basement windows are below sidewalk level. From when they raised the streets in Chicago. And something I have seen in many places in my neighborhood the light switch for the bathroom is on the outside of the room !
 
LOL, but not in a funny way. I grew up near Chicago in a 1950s single-story ranch-style house. No insulation, forced air heat vents along interior walls... Drafts, mold, dampness, cold walls and floors... Ugh. :thumbdn:

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On the good side, those historic brick walls are well-insulated. Like yours, our house is solid brick (14" thick, not a cheesy facade) on the first story only. Parts of the house heat up like an oven and stay comfortable for hours. :thumbup:
 
LOL, but not in a funny way. I grew up near Chicago in a 1950s single-story ranch-style house. No insulation, forced air heat vents along interior walls... Drafts, mold, dampness, cold walls and floors... Ugh. :thumbdn:

Then you know exactly how it is. The only thing I don't have is the mold at least not yet as soon as I can find a better place that I can afford I'm out of there. Until then trying to seal it up the best I can 14 degrees today in November not counting the windchill !
 
From what I can tell I'm getting condensation from many things when the wife cooks, if someone takes a shower. I do have a humidifier but this happens even when it's not in use. Even if I can remove the humidity the windows still need to be sealed. There is no storm windows but they are double pane windows a lot of good that does because of the gaps. Not all of the windows are as bad as a few. One you can see light out of one of the sides. As far as the landlord doing anything about it's not gonna happen he hasn't fixed one thing for the last 5 years I have been there. I gave up on that a long time ago I am looking for another place but it's not easy where I live .
That is pretty much illegal everywhere, for a landlord to ignore issues like this. Look into the 3M stuff, there is a ton of different products available to kill and prevent drafts.
 
That is pretty much illegal everywhere, for a landlord to ignore issues like this. Look into the 3M stuff, there is a ton of different products available to kill and prevent drafts.

If that was the case there would be a lot of Landlords around here in jail. He would have to replace 50 window because everyone in the building is just as bad. This summer he had to tear half of an outside wall down and have it rebuilt. Only because the city made him do it. I bought some 3m tape and sealed them up will see how long it lasts.
 
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