Winter Project: Fixing a broken khukuri

Joined
Aug 4, 2004
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373
I broke a 15" Ang Khola some time back, and now that I've got some time off, I figured it would be a good idea to fix it. This khuk may look familiar to some of you, that's because this is the broken khukuri which caused a bit of shakeup over at BirGorkha.

The original thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317652
and the response: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318341

The pictures that I have are kind of high resolution, so I'm just putting a link to them so they won't screw up the text formatting and run off the screen.

Here's the whole assembly:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~robgaunt/pics/fixkhuk/fixkhuk1.jpg

The handle is made of a piece of hickory. I only did some rough shaping, I think I may shape it some more later. The picture also looks really dark, I think this may be due to the jpeg compression. The handle does not look that dark and dingy at all, but is a much lighter color. It looked pretty nice when I put some tung oil on it.

I made this handle a little differently than a normal khuk handle, it is slightly asymmetrical and it the back bulge is larger on the left side. Also, I spaced the two "rings" such that one of my fingers locks into place between the rings, and one behind the last ring. The handle is also slightly larger so I can place only one finger or three fingers behind the ring, depending how much leverage or control I want. I kept testing it while shaping it, and this just kind of felt comfortable for me.

The tang, which broke off, was extended by welding on a 1/2" round piece of steel. Instead of just using epoxy, I brazed the brass bolster onto the khuk. I had never brazed anything before, so this turned out kind of messy. I used a MAPP gas and oxygen torch, available at Home Depot, and some "Low Fuming Bronze" brazing rod, which was flux coated, also available at Home Depot. It was simpler to do this than I expected.

Here is a picture of the weld:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~robgaunt/pics/fixkhuk/fixkhuk2.jpg

I accidentally blew a hole in the brass bolster, where the brass was a little thinner, when I kept the torch in one place too long. I noticed that the brass bubbled when it melted. I think this is a sign that it isn't very pure brass. However, I just filled the hole with braze. Hopefully, this will make a very strong bond with the blade.

While brazing and welding, I had to be careful to keep the blade cool, so I kept it wrapped in a wet cloth. The blade heated up slightly, but the part which turned a straw color only extended a 1/2" or so, which doesn't affect the cutting portion.

Going back to the first picture, you can see that I tapered down the end of the 1/2" rod to about a 1/4" diameter or so. The buttcap slides over this tapered area. Then I would peen this over to hold it on. The buttcap is the same buttcap that came off the old khuk. I drilled out a larger hole and reshaped it slightly. It doesn't fit perfectly, and looks really ugly. But, since this is going to be a beater knife anyway, I don't care.

I had considered other options for attaching a buttcap. I thought of getting a 1/2" nut, and then cutting threads on the tang. The nut would hold the handle on. You could use a washer, but I don't think this would be necessary. I think that would actually look kind of interesting, if a little bit goofy. But I used the peening method since I don't have any dies to cut threads and I would have to borrow somebody else's.

To put everything together, I used some 2-ton epoxy mixed with hickory dust. I filled the bolster up with this mixture, and covered the tang and the end of the handle. Then I assembled the whole thing.

I had problems shaping the buttcap to fit the curve of the back of the handle. I would hammer it down on one side and it would pop up back on the other side. So I just filled the small gaps with a goop of epoxy and sawdust.

To peen the end over, I set the knife point downward on a stump and started beating on it with a 4 lb. hammer. I think I overdid it. The khukuri was driven about 2" into the stump and was tough to wiggle out, and I had hit the thing so hard that the bolster was being jammed into the handle, the bottom half of the bolster was bent inward and on the top, the handle began to splinter. This splintering wasn't serious, just some surface cracks, which I coated with some epoxy, and when it dried, I sanded the bolster flush with the handle.

Here's a picture of the whole Khollection:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~robgaunt/pics/fixkhuk/fixkhuk3.jpg

The fixed khuk (a 15" AK), a 21" Chainpuri, and a 27" AK. Again, everything looks dark. This is irritating me since it doesn't turn out that way when I look at it on the camera. It must be the lower quality compression. Either that or this monitor is getting old and doesn't show the color properly.

I made another mistake in fixing this knife which I think I should mention. I think the handle ought to bend downward more, like you see on the AK. This was a problem with welding on the tang, I should have had it bent downward at a slight angle.

This whole project was not as difficult as I expected, and didn't take too much time either. I feel that I got a pretty good deal out of this "disaster" of breaking a khukuri, a free replacement (the Chainpuri, a great knife), plus I get to keep this fixed one. Thanks, Uncle Bill, for your excellent warranty policy.
 
KM, not to burst your bubble because you did do an excellent job. But I would be real careful with that khuk and I sure wouldn't trust my life to it because it's not likely to hold being brazed. :eek: :(
You would have done much better to have taken it to a shop and had it welded up with steel rod as then it would have lasted until time wore out.
And it could still be done by reverseing the procedure and grinding all the brazing material off and then welding with steel.
Hickory does make a wonderful handle and anyone that's seen a hammer or axe handle knows it's not as dark as it shows in the photo.:D
 
Keep up the good work! I like the fact that you shaped the handle to fit your hand best. Let us know how it works out for you.

Yeah, I think that a 4lber is a bit much for peening, I'd use one that was no more than a pound. When I was smithing all the time I did most of my actual forge work with a 3 or 4lb; peening though is more of a finesse thing. You want to angle your blows around the perimeter, and they can be almost a glancing type of hit.

BTW, have you fired up your forgebeque? Still thinking of making an axe?

Stevo
 
As someone new to the forum, I am very happy to see that Uncle Bill and his people handled the problem in a fair and honorable way. I'm extremely pleased with my Ang Khola and will probably get another khuk in the near future.
 
Yvsa, the only part that was brazed was the bolster. The steel rod was welded to the tang. You cannot weld brass, correct?

In any case, normally all that's holding the bolster on is laha. Certainly braze is stronger than that.
 
stevomiller said:
BTW, have you fired up your forgebeque? Still thinking of making an axe?

I think it was someone else with the forgebeque. But I do have a question regarding an axe. A while back I forged a small axe out of a ball peen hammer. The problem was that the hammer eye was too small, and so when you fit a handle on the axe, there wasn't enough material in there to support the shock of chopping. So the handle would break off.

I don't have a drift, but I guess I could make one, then fix the axe and re-heat treat it. But I was wondering if there was a simpler way: I was thinking of taking a section of 1" pipe, hammering one end down so it would slot inside the axe head, and then welding everything up. I would then drill two holes through the pipe, and slot a handle in there, then put bolts though the holes to hold the handle on. I imagine this would add to the weight of the axe somewhat significantly, but do you think it would be strong enough, and would there be any other disadvantages that I am not seeing?
 
Khukuri Monster said:
Yvsa, the only part that was brazed was the bolster. The steel rod was welded to the tang.
Okay, my mistake. From the way I read it you had brazed the blade and tang together, must've been because I was having a hard time staying awake when I read it.:o :rolleyes: ;)
 
Good work! What we like to call a failure is like saying "I wrecked my car" when you dent the front fender. The knife was damaged but now should last a lifetime. I like it.
 
Khuk Monster, sorry I mistook you for another :footinmou Putting a piece of pipe into the eye might help, but I think that the handle will want to wiggle after awhile since it is cylindrical and is not wedged in place. Two things to be careful of, though 1) make sure that the pipe is not galvanized ( it will give off poisonous gas when heated, 2) if you hardened the whole axe head (not just the cutting edge) it can crack when you go to weld if you don't preheat first. Give it a try though, no harm ~ no foul. In the future I think that I would drift the eye larger, then forge the sides of the eye down to lengthen them into "ears". Good luck with your projects! :)
 
hey kukhri monster, nice job, but next time use silver solder, for the bolster. goes on a lot easer with about half the heat. just as strong. it wont ever let go. has a tensile streangth of about 125000 lbs. good job though. a lot of guys wouldnt have been able to brase that one.
 
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