Photos WIP 1095 Clay Hardened Bowie

J

Jacob K

Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Messages
26
Hey guys, I am currently working on a 1095 bowie knife. This will hopefully make a nice big knife for outdoor use. I must say thanks to the many awesome bowies on this forum for providing inspiration, especially Nick Wheeler and his videos and posts. Great stuff. I hope he doesn't mind the rather unflattering copy but I think that this is a fairly decent beginner's rendition.

Blade measures 13.25" long, 8.5" blade, 4.5" handle, 2" wide. I am using 5/32 stock which is thinner than is usually used but it was what I had. I still have to heat treat this blank but it should turn out ok. I am getting some Indian Ebony for the handle and will use 1/8 nickel silver pins. Really wanna do a nice sculpted handle on this baby.

If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!

Thank,
Jake

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I would ditch the leg next to the choil. Bowies like this typically don't have a choil, the edge is simply dropped down eliminating the need for one. I think you need to add a sixth pin in the butt of the handle. I also think this style of knife looks better with a ricasso but that is just my preference.

I think the grind looks clean and flat and your harpoon clip looks good as does the overall profile. Did you use a grinder or files to grind this out?

Keep posting, there are a lot of knowledgeable guys on here and you will get a lot of good advice.

-Clint
 
Thanks Clint. I am purposely making a guardless style bowie since I don't want to mess around with a guard style. The reason I have that little leg next to the choil is for comfort purposes. I think that in case the index finger comes up, it is a lot less likely for finger to meet edge. I know it is aesthetically odd on this style of knife but I value user comfort over that.

I used a 4x36 harbor freight belt grinder and angle grinder to grind this out. Thanks and I hope this doesn't crack on me. I hope to heat treat tonight.
 
Some updates. I heat treated the blade and am in the process of polishing it. I did a quick etch to see the hamon and it is fairly active. I did get a very slight bend though near the choil that's very difficult to get out. I also followed Clint's advice and took down the leg at the choil, while still keeping the blade comfortable.

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I think your pin holes are a bit too close to the edge of the handle. Looks good otherwise.
 
That is a good point. I will have to keep that in mind when doing these types of handles. The big 1/4 pins in the middle of the handle are easy to do but doesn't usually make it aesthetically appealing. Thanks for the advice Willie.
 
Once you contour the handle, your pins will look like they were angle cut. Use a hand torch and heat the tang and move the pins in. You can make a dummy scale with a piece of scrap wood and see where the pins need to be placed with the contour you have.
 
I already glued the pins in so oh well... But I know for next time the proper way to space my pins.
 
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Finished this blade with Indian Ebony handle scales, sealed with bees wax. Took it to the yard and tested it by chopping some scrap pine lumber and some green tree branches. Edge holds up pretty well, only some minor edge deformation when the edge hit a knot or I dragged the edge on the wood. I think it does need thicker stock for heavier blade weight as well as a bigger palm swell but I think this was a good learning experience. I at least got the balance right, about half an inch in front of the handle. As Willie predicted, the pins are at an angle so I will know that for next time when doing contoured handles like this.

Thanks for looking and thank you to everyone for the advice!
-Jake
 
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