WIP - Hidden Tang with Threaded Butt Cap (Picture Heavy)

[logem]

Here's some WIP photos.

My Handle Broach. Made from O1 steel. Shown before heat treatment:

Preparing to silver solder (braze) the 1/4-20 stainless all thread to the tang. Note submerged blade to prevent heat damage. Also used heat reduction paste.

Silver solder joint. Probably not the best, but it works.

Guard has been pinned and soldered. Preparing to etch maker's mark with homemade etcher.

Dry fitting before glueing with epoxy. Had to delicately bend all-thread to make butt cap thread flush with end of handle.

Detail of slightly unthreaded butt cap:

Components before glueing:

Butt plate end of sambar stag handle:

Guard end of stag handle. By the way, this is only the 12th knife that I've ever made.

Notice how I installed guard spacers prior to soldering all-thread.

Mike L.
http://www.logiudicecustomknives.com

 

[logem]

OK, I used too many images in my first post. Here's part 2.


Spacer and nut soldered to butt plate.

 

[childzplay]

Very nice, I really appreciated the pictures. I bet it feels great in your hand.

 

[logem]

Part 3


Another dry fit.

Ready to glue.

Screwed and Glued. Drying.

The KMG grinder and Baldor Buffer.

Some finishing work on the handle / guard interface.

Bringing the handle down to meet the guard surfaces.

Another photo. I love my Panavise.

Almost completed butt plate. Working on matching butt plate to handle profile.

Almost completed knive. Just a little handle buffing to go:

Finished Knife. I'm working to get better photos:

Specifications:

Style: Drop point
Overall Length: 11-3/8 inches
Blade: 5-5/8 inch, Hand ground CPM S30V stainless steel, flat grind, 400 grit hand rubbed finish
Handle Material: "Popcorn" Sambar Stag Antler
Guard: Double guard, nickel silver
Spacer Material: Nickel silver and black vulcanized fiber
Butt Cap: 416 stainless steel​

Mike L.
http://www.logiudicecustomknives.com

 

[stephanfowler]

Preparing to silver solder the 1/4-20 stainless all thread to the tang. Note submerged blade to prevent heat damage. Also used heat reduction paste.

Not that there's any problem with being over cautious,

but for silver solder (NOT brazing) there shouldn't be enough heat to effect the temper unless your overheating drastically.

brazing however would get hot enough to cause a potential problem

 

[logem]

Not that there's any problem with being over cautious,

but for silver solder (NOT brazing) there shouldn't be enough heat to effect the temper unless your overheating drastically.

brazing however would get hot enough to cause a potential problem

Actually, the threads are silver-brazed to the tang. High temperature solder, I guess.

Mike L.

 

[stephanfowler]

Actually, the threads are silver-brazed to the tang. High temperature solder, I guess.

Mike L.

Ahhh

Carry on then

 

[indian george]

When I do mine, I dovetail the tang (female) and dovetail the threaded rod (male) then silver braze.

 

[logem]

When I do mine, I dovetail the tang (female) and dovetail the thread rod (male) then silver braze.

I'd like to see a photo or sketch of the dovetail method.

I tried this once (actually, on this knife), and the female notch in the blade tang ended up being a weak point. In fact, a portion of the notch broke off while I was trying to bend the all-thread. That's why I ended up with a tapered wedge on the end of the tang and a slot on the thread.

Of course, I'm working with air hardening stainless, where the entire blade and tang are hardened during heat treat. Those of you who forge blades can leave the tang "soft" and malleable, and may not have this problem.

Mike L.

 

[Anthony Chaney]

The only thing I would do differently is I would peen the threaded rid to the tang and that's prolly overkill.