- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 5,846
This is one I'm working out- forged the bevels and tip down but left the tang full stock thickness for balance. The scales are english walnut, cut from a large block that is being used to make a set (this knife gets a smaller scandi companion and a firesteel)
First 2 photos are after glue up, but before I put in the tubing pins. I insert the pins after drilling out temporary glue up pins so that I can peen everything together.
Next photos are after 120 grit rough finishing and shaping, with the first oil soak done, but before second and third oil coats and finishing to 600 grit. the front of the scales and the rear need their fine edge rounding done still in these photos. This wood should have some tiger effect once I get that far. (you can see the tubing pins are installed)
Overall the knife is 20 inches long with about a 12 inch blade. The distal taper starts about 4 inches out from the hilt and is slightly parabolic, increasing the angle slightly as you get closer to the tip. Final grind is convex taper from the spine down.
First 2 photos are after glue up, but before I put in the tubing pins. I insert the pins after drilling out temporary glue up pins so that I can peen everything together.
Next photos are after 120 grit rough finishing and shaping, with the first oil soak done, but before second and third oil coats and finishing to 600 grit. the front of the scales and the rear need their fine edge rounding done still in these photos. This wood should have some tiger effect once I get that far. (you can see the tubing pins are installed)
Overall the knife is 20 inches long with about a 12 inch blade. The distal taper starts about 4 inches out from the hilt and is slightly parabolic, increasing the angle slightly as you get closer to the tip. Final grind is convex taper from the spine down.
