WIP My first damascus 1080x15n20

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Dec 15, 2009
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I forgot to take pictures of the actual welding stages, but that's probably pretty boring anyway. I started with 1 bar each of 1080 and 15n20. When I ordered them I wasn't even sure it would be feasible to do with a hand hammer and not with a hydraulic press/power hammer, so I only got 1 of each to make a small billet, if I could. Anyway, it turned out not bad, so I took some pics to share. Please feel free to give any feedback, it's far from perfect but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out for a first try. This is also I think my second blade grind ever.. I put in a bit of a distal taper as well, though the pics don't show it. I apologize for the bad pics, I'll take better ones when it's finished. I had to re-profile a little bit as I overheated a small spot while trying to get up into my plunge lines, but thankfully it was quite small and didn't change too much.

I forgot to mention because I started with 2 bars I stopped at 36 layers as I was cutting and stacking and losing a lot of material in the process. I cut twice and had 6 layers to start, repeated for 18 layers, and then I cut lengthwise once to double it to 36. I also doubled up a 15n20 layer just for fun to change the pattern a bit, rather than alternating evenly. It would have been more pronounced with a higher initial layer count, but I think that is what accounts for the larger 15n20 area on the blade portion.

I used a 3M Cubitron II 80 grit before quench, and Jflex belts 120 220 400 afterwards. I think I might try some Norton Norax belts for finishing before the final etch, I have a 600 and 3000 grit one.. but I want to test it on something else first as I've never used them before.

This is right out of the quench, first time I got to see some of the pattern visible.
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These are just two views, one of the whole knife and one of the blade pattern close up. It is flat ground, and finished to 400 grit.
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Has just canola oil on the blade to protect it from rusting until I can get it all finished.
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I was happier with my plunge lines after the rough grinding than the final grinding, but being such a thin blade I didn't want to get too picky about them, so I left them "OK". Plus this being my second ground knife, I'm still quite pleased with them, they're a large improvement over my last knife.

I used 1 pound of ferric chloride hexahydrate per 1 gallon of distilled water to make the etching solution.. (that stuff takes a long time to dissolve) and let it sit until the next day.
I only etched for 10-15 seconds, to show the pattern. I'm waiting on 1/8" pinstock and I'm going to fit up the handle and grind flush etc, then do a full etch so it's all evenly etched. I may also grind to 600 or higher before the proper etch.
I have a stainless steel pin I was going to use for the handle pins, but I didn't have a drill bit small enough so I made 1/8" holes and will wait.
I haven't decided yet what to use for a handle material.. pretty sure stabilized wood, but I don't want to waste a $40-50 set of scales, I might try to make some small scales from a block I have though.

I want to thank everyone for their advice during this learning process.. I really appreciate it!
 
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Looks good.

What sort of patterning did you do?

I think it could have been more dramatic with more manipulation, or a twist or something
 
Congrats on your first billet.Just a couple of things to consider.
Use the Ferric You mixed up as stock,dilute it 3 parts distilled water to 1 part ferric.you will get a better etch,just take a little longer.
Hand sand the blade to atleast 800 grit,higher is better,if it's not well sanded the scratches will give you an uneven etch.
Good job and keep banging away.
Stan
 
Thanks Count, it's just a random pattern, as I only started with 2 bars and ended with 36 layers, I lost a lot of material grinding off scale and such when I re-stacked. Next time I think I will do a twist or a birds eye pattern. This was mostly an experiment to see if I could do it, because I'd never forge welded anything before.

Thanks Stan, I was thinking I should dilute it some more, I think maybe I misread the advice I got on reconstituting powdered ferric, and thought 1 pound to 1 gallon would give me a roughly 3:1 or 4:1 ratio.. I'll have to re-read that, I still have another gallon of distilled water I can use.
Is hand sanding a must, or would a high grit finish on belts be as good in theory? I'd like to avoid hand sanding if I can, mostly because I have belts and I'd have to order paper to sand with. I appreciate the advice!
 
Looks great! This is the year I do my first try at it. How high do your belts go? You really should take them to at least 800 to get a clean etch.
 
Thanks TF,
I have a 650 and 3000 grit norton norax I thought of trying. In EdC's Basic and Mosaic Damascus DVD he recommends a mirror polish (without buffing compound) before etching, so I will try to get it as fine a polish as I can. Looks like either way I may have to order some finer abrasives, whether it be sheets to hand sand or belts to do it that way.

I have a cork belt and a crocus cloth belt meant for polishing compound, and I have some green compound. But I hesitate to basically "buff" the damascus before etching -- though I wonder if I clean it off good with acetone before would it be okay, or is it going to "smudge" the lines? I'll keep you buys posted how it goes.
 
Congrats on your first billet.Just a couple of things to consider.
Use the Ferric You mixed up as stock,dilute it 3 parts distilled water to 1 part ferric.you will get a better etch,just take a little longer.
Hand sand the blade to atleast 800 grit,higher is better,if it's not well sanded the scratches will give you an uneven etch.
Good job and keep banging away.
Stan
One piece of advice I learned the hardway - Add the acid to the water not the other way around! Splashing acid around before its fully diluted can be bad news.
 
That is a good bit of advice. I wore a full face mask and rubber gloves when I was mixing the solution, and I did it out in a snowbank (froze my butt off waiting for it to dissolve) in a plastic bucket. I will definitely be wearing a face mask etc whenever I am taking a chance of splashing or sloshing it.
What happened to you when you splashed it?
 
Hey Mgysgthath..... Looks good for a first try......

Tip.... I saw on a video a guy used a long piece of plastic pipe caped on the bottom about 3 feet long or so.. Kept his etching solution in there.. Think it was Mr. Ed Caffrey. He then had a screw on cap on the top. This way he used it all the time. Also you can put a small heating blanket around it and set it to low for a while before use...

I plan to make my first billet once I get my press all done....

Dezi
 
Thanks Dezmond, and yes it was Ed Caffrey who showed that method in his basic and mosaic dvds, and frankly I would have done that except I was too lazy to go to the hardware store and buy pipe/pvc/abs glue and make a tank.. so I used a cat litter bucket lol :) I washed it out and dried it thoroughly and just dumped my distilled water in and mixed, has a handy lid and all. However a longer knife I"m going to need a longer tank, or just dilute the mixture and therefore make the liquid deeper. Thank you for the tip! I look forward to seeing your billet! Do you forge? You could try doing one by hand in the mean time, it's not really difficult persay.. just HARD work with the hammer for hours. How's your press coming? I'm still sourcing and gathering parts.
 
Press is coming along really well... Got a couple cylinders for free ;) Got a lot of the welding done as well.. I will be starting a new thread shortly on it as well.... I am also building a forge at the same time... SO I havn't even started on making anything yet.. :( Soon I hope....

Should hook up sometime

Dezi
 
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