WIP Photos of MDB model.

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Jan 2, 2015
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Today I did heat treated my MDB model which is made from CPM 154 Stainless Steel. We took some pretty cool pictures showing the process so I thought I would share. Thanks for looking!


This is after I hand profiled the blades. After shaping I apply blue layout dye on the blades to mark where my holes and jimping will be. I did this to a total of 9 blades for this run.
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Next I apply the file work. I do each notch by hand with a jewelers file. I expect a major handcramp! Heat treat next!
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1940 Degrees. Don't pick on my tongs!!!
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The blades are plate quenched under pressuring using a drill press. They are cool enough to hold in a bare hand in about 90 seconds. The blade is sealed in a foil packet to ensure it does not come into contact with oxygen at such a high temperature.
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The blade after the high temperature stainless foil packet is removed. Next the blades will go into a subzero bath at -100 degrees F overnight. This extra process adds improved edge retention.
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I will add more WIP pics as I go. Please feel free to ask me about the process as I go if you have any questions! Thanks for looking!
 
Appreciate your sharing and it is really an education for me. I will be watching this thread. Thank you.
 
I just pulled the blades out of their Sub Zero bath. They will now rest until room temperature and then the blades will be tempered. This process improves edge retention for me and gains 1 Rockwell point.

I only heat treat 6 knives at a time. Any more and it can become a hassle for me. Also, my quench plates start to warm up more than I would like after the sixth. Future shop improvements include larger quench plates

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Okay back to work! Friday and over the weekend the blades were tempered, tested and surface ground. I surface ground them with a 220 grit belt to prepare them for hand sanding.

I prepare the scales next. I do this step now because it reduces the risk of scratching the blades later on. I glue on the liners and then join both the handle sides with 3 small dabs of super glue. This way each side of the handle will match up perfect. I shape the front of the handles with the belt grinder and fully polish this area; it will be impossible to polish this area once the scale is attached to the knife. I then attach the blank carefully on the handle material where I want it with a little super glue. I then carefully drill through the existing holes in the blank and into the handle material. I then go to the grinder and with a 36 grit belt shape the handle material to the tang while it is still glued to the blank. I am careful not to hit the steel. I then can remove the handle material from the blade with a couple taps from a hammer. Presto, quick accurate scales in just a couple steps!

The scales will now have their holes counter sunk and a bevel put in the front so the knife can be easily seated in its sheath. I will then work on the blades.

Surface Ground Blank
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Placing Scales on with Super Glue
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Scales are attached together by a couple of dabs of superglue
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Scales have been drilled and shaped while superglued to the blade.
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The Scales will be removed with a couple of taps from the hammer. Blades will be worked on next.
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This picture shows the scales still glued to the blade. I do it this way to minimize mistakes and to get both scales shaped and drilled perfectly at the same time in just a couple steps.
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Matched the Artistic Filework to the handle material
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Thanks for looking!
 
The knife blades have been hand sanded with a sanding block to a 600 grit finish. This process gives the flats of the blade the horizontal scratch pattern that will contrast with the grind of the bevels. I will go back and touch up the finish if need be during the grind.

Next I rough out the bevels on the blades. I am going to flat grind these particular knives because they are utility knives. I use blue layout dye and scribe the centerline of my grind with two lines. I also scribe my grind height for the bevels on the side of the blade. I use a slightly used 36 grit belt to start this process and establish an even grind line. I finish the rough grind with a sharp 80 grit belt.
Meanwhile I have finished the prep work on the handles. I have precisely countersunk the holes where I will put a flared stainless tube for attachment. I also drilled small holes in the back of the scale. This helps create more surface area for the epoxy and also adds shear strength to the bond.

Rough ground bevels done and handle prepwork finished. Still a ways to go!
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120 grit belt is next. I will work the grind further up the blade and closer to my centerline.
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Can't wait to shape these handles!
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I cleaned up the file-work and hand sanded the flats. This provides great contrast with the grind. With my wharncliffe blades I have been getting good at putting on a stout tip!
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I bevel the front of the handle material to help it into the sheath. I have tweaked this angle and have liked the results so far! I bevel the back of the scale on the model with the glass breaker, I think it balances the look.
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Glue prep done on the back of the handle slabs. I will rough these up one more time with 36 grit sandpaper before glue-up.
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Working out the details. I just polished the flares, tang and handle. This adds a huge amount of time but is worth it! Got some others finishing up and hope to get good pictures soon. (not sharpened yet)

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