WIP Scandi Style - Maple, Ebony

[redsquid2]

After looking at pics of traditional Scandinavian knives, I decided to play around with that style. I bought a blade and came up with this handle in maple and ebony. Blade is 2 3/4". O.A.L. is 6 1/4".

What do you think? Would it look better with some kind of pommel or nut on the butt?

 

[lonepine]

I like the profile of the handle a lot.

I like the fact that the wood is the same in the finger guard and the pommel. The repetition draws attention to it. If you put a brass pommel on then the ebony would not be so noticeable because it would be competing with the brass, IMHO.

- Paul Meske

 

[Bailey Knives]

I like it, but you do know what WIP stands for, right? Is the bolster split at the blade?

 

[redsquid2]

I like it, but you do know what WIP stands for, right? Is the bolster split at the blade?

Yeah, the bolster has a gap at the top. I didn't really plan it that way, but that was how it turned out. After I took these pictures, I filled in that gap with some white epoxy. It makes a nice contrast against the red spacers.

WIP = Work In Progress, right?

 

[ctaylorjr]

I'd leave it as it is now for the reasons others have described above.

WIP is Work In Progress, this is a finished knife... No major issues, but you may get more replies if you change the title a bit.

Charlie

 

[BMK]

Nice work! Knife making made simple, very nice lines.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The bolster should slip on the tang with just a slot in it, and seat snugly to the blade. I suspect you added it after the handle was attached, and had to slip it on from the side. That is not a good way to do it. The white epoxy worked on this one, but do it the correct way next time.

The bolster/butt cap wood looks more like mahogany than ebony?

On my puuko style knives, I have the tang go all the way through the handle materials. I epoxy the handle/bolster/guard/ and all parts on the blade and clamp tight to let dry. After the epoxy dries, I slip a washer down the tang, and peen the tang down onto the washer to lock the handle tight. This is the traditional method of finishing such knives.

 

[redsquid2]

The bolster should slip on the tang with just a slot in it, and seat snugly to the blade. I suspect you added it after the handle was attached, and had to slip it on from the side. That is not a good way to do it. The white epoxy worked on this one, but do it the correct way next time.

The bolster/butt cap wood looks more like mahogany than ebony?

On my puuko style knives, I have the tang go all the way through the handle materials. I epoxy the handle/bolster/guard/ and all parts on the blade and clamp tight to let dry. After the epoxy dries, I slip a washer down the tang, and peen the tang down onto the washer to lock the handle tight. This is the traditional method of finishing such knives.

I wanted to rebel against tradition. I had seen so many knives with the tang going all the way through, and the straight-line design, I was tired of it. I wanted some overall curve to it. Just had to be different, and create an "anti-puuko."

Wow! You're right! That's mahogany! Brain fart on my part.

Regarding the bolster/tang union: I cut the slot at the top before gluing everything together. I was afraid the bolster wasn't tall enough for that tang. The tang curves out gently to the width of the blade, instead of being squared off there. Here is a picture:

http://thompsonsknives.com/helle.html

Thanks for the reply, Bladsmith.