wipe on poly wood finish

Kevin McGovern

Kevin McGovern

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Jul 31, 2015
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Anyone use wipe on poly wood finish? I'm thinking of trying it on some kitchen knife handles. I know stabilized is the way to go, but I like to have options. Thanks.
 
I've used it before, but not on knife handles. It was ok, but a real hand rubbed finish looks better.
 
I used to use minwax polyshades in light oak. It worked very well, and the very slight bit of tint would really make some woods pop. I've basically switched to a sealcoat of CA (sanded basically all the way off) and then truoil.

Both work, it mostly depends on the wood and your personal preference
 
I'll add that I don't use the poly as intended. It's wiped on and wiped right off, as you would an oil finish
 
I have used on it on handles and other wood projects. It works well but, for me, has two drawbacks. One is the fumes, i have to either find a separate place to dry the wood or put finish on right before closing shop for the day. Second is long dry time, usually 6-8 hours between coats.
I usually paint the finish on, let stand 5 minutes, then wipe with cloth damp with finish. 5 or 6 coats usually. sand with 240 after first, 320 after second, 400 after third, then 0000 steel wool for remaining coats. I don't see how this is anything but a hand rubbed finish.
a good article on the subject http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2
 
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I don't like any finish on the handles of kitchen knives .... because it won't survive the use and washing. It can become sticky and/or turn gray or whitish and have to be sanded off.
 
Stacy is dead on. Even high-quality uv curing poly urethane won't stand up to treatment kitchen knives get with scrubbing, soap and hot water. I would honestly prefer bare, oiled oak or maple to a poly coating.

Or just try to find some lower cost exotics. Feel free to send me a pm
 
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Matthew Gregory said:
What's the reason for the TruOil application? What does the final finish look like?
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The truoil is the actual finish, the CA is just used to fill the grain, and basically all of it is sanded off. It gives the handrubbed oil finish you see on fine firearms, same oil in fact.


I'll also second the exotic woods for kitchen knives. I'll either use a very dense exotic (ebonies, Rosewoods, tubi, lignum vitae, katalox, ect) or micarta for kitchen knives. In general if a wood can't be used without a finish, I don't use it for something in the kitchen.

I'll still oil it, but a film finish just won't stand up.
 
Thanks for all the advice gents. I was hoping to be able to use blue dyed birds eye maple. I have some I stabilized myself, but I'm not at the point with stabilizing where I am comfortable using it on a knife for sale. I have an example of a personal knife on my FB page, and of course, now everyone wants that specific look on a kitchen knife...
 
Yeah, I figured as much, but I've never seen superglue used under oil to fill pores that didn't look like superglue under an oil finish to fill pores. On occasion I've done oil finishes like the gunstock finish you're referring to, such as on this piece:

34009723700_02850f4032_c.jpg




Can you show me a photo of one of your handles so I can see if this is something I should be trying, rather than using countless coats of oil sanded back to fill pores like the traditional method?


Geoff Flato said:
The truoil is the actual finish, the CA is just used to fill the grain, and basically all of it is sanded off. It gives the handrubbed oil finish you see on fine firearms, same oil in fact.


I'll also second the exotic woods for kitchen knives. I'll either use a very dense exotic (ebonies, Rosewoods, tubi, lignum vitae, katalox, ect) or micarta for kitchen knives. In general if a wood can't be used without a finish, I don't use it for something in the kitchen.

I'll still oil it, but a film finish just won't stand up.
Click to expand...
 
I'm just out for a bit right now, but I'll grab a picture for you tonight.
I definitely had problems with that look at first, just took a while to figure out exactly what works
 
Greenberg Woods said:
Stacy is dead on. Even high-quality uv curing poly urethane won't stand up to treatment kitchen knives get with scrubbing, soap and hot water. I would honestly prefer bare, oiled oak or maple to a poly coating.Or just try to find some lower cost exotics. Feel free to send me a pm
Click to expand...
i make kitchen knives and tell clients/users how to clean them. quick wipe of the blade with soapy water, rinse in hot water, immediately double dry; the same recommendations found on most sites that sell Japanese kitchen knives. the blade and handle rarely see soap and water and then only for a second. oil and water based polyurethanes are designed for applications like wooden floors where they will see more water and dirt in a week than most kitchen knives see in a year. for a hand rubbed look, I like Deftane gloss. mix 2 parts thinner to 1 part Deftane. use this for first 3 coats then use 1 to 1 Deftane and thinner till you are happy with the finish.
an excellent series of articles on "Oil" finishes. the kitchen paper referred to is paper towels. http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com...-and-abrasives/penetrative/oil-finishes-pt-1/
 
These still need a couple more coats of oil, and a final buff. Looking at it in person you'd never know it has CA under it.
I've done a couple with the CA standing out in my learning process, and it really looks like crap
 
The direct attack on the double bonds by oxygen forms cyclic peroxides. The resultant reaction of the peroxides with allylic methylene groups, leads to the formation of radicals. This creates a radical chain reaction that forms polymers. The molecular mass created during tung oil polymerisation is less than that achieved through linseed oil polymerisation. To speed up the film formation and curing process, manufacturers add 'driers' to the oils.

This really helped me to understand how to pick the right finish
 
skillgannon said:
The direct attack on the double bonds by oxygen forms cyclic peroxides. The resultant reaction of the peroxides with allylic methylene groups, leads to the formation of radicals. This creates a radical chain reaction that forms polymers. The molecular mass created during tung oil polymerisation is less than that achieved through linseed oil polymerisation. To speed up the film formation and curing process, manufacturers add 'driers' to the oils.

This really helped me to understand how to pick the right finish
Click to expand...
the review of 50+ finishes might help
 
Was just having a little fun. It was a good article though there may have been one or two points that I don't want to take a test on.
 
Thanks for posting a glimpse at this finish. Not sure if I'll try it, but at least I have an idea of what to expect. :thumbsup:


Geoff Flato said:
These still need a couple more coats of oil, and a final buff. Looking at it in person you'd never know it has CA under it.
I've done a couple with the CA standing out in my learning process, and it really looks like crap
Click to expand...
 
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