Wire wrap & boiled linseed oil

orca8589

orca8589

Joined
Jan 27, 2007
Messages
6,518
Alright, I'm new to this sub-forum, but it's very interesting here. I think I'll hang around a while. :thumbup:

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Has anyone here heard of or done this: When I was growing up in NC, I had heard of axe handles being wrapped in bailing wire, up near the axe head, to strengthen the handle. Is there a technique for that, that someone here could recommend?

Also, regarding boiled linseed oil: I've read that one way to keep an axe handle or a hatchet handle from shrinking too much, is too drill a 1/4" hole into the bottom of the handle, about 2" to 2-1/2" deep, and pour boiled linseed oil into the hole and prop up the axe. The oil will then soak into the handle. Does this sound logical? Will it soak all the way down the length of the handle?

I have several axes, sledge hammers, hatchets, etc. that I got from an estate sale, and I'd rather keep the wood (hickory) handles on them, if I can keep them intact.

thx - cpr
 
Budsboy - thanks; what's the difference as far as boiled or not boiled linseed oil?

Anybody have any advice on the wire-wrapped strengthening issue? The only thing I can find online for wire wrapped handles is a bunch of ridiculous fantasy props. :rolleyes:

thx - cpr
 
I have seen it done with axes and old hammers for a repair job for splits. You can drill a small hole in the wood and push the end of the wire into it to start the wrap. To end the wrap you can flatten the end of the wire put a s small hole in it and put a small nail through it. You could also drill another small hole and bend the end into a L shape and pound it into the hole to finish.
 
Never heard of drilling a hole and putting linseed oil into it to keep handle from shrinking.
I may be wrong but I dont think the oil is going to penetrate along the whole handle.
 
I have heard of the drilling and pouring oil routine, but was unsure of the knowledge level of the individual who did it.

Most people I know put the handle (without the head) inside a section of PVC pipe large enough to encase it, and it has a cap glued on the end. The handle is put in, and linseed oil poured in to cover the handle. It is propped up and a cap is put on the other (top) end. It is left like this for a while.
 
Thanks for the info, guys. :thumbup: The linseed oil in the hole thing seems odd to me. My handles are sealed, so I may sand down the finish and do the soak that way, like Glock said. Most folks I know just set the handle down into a long galvanized flower box, and left it for a few days; their handles were not pre-sealed though, like mine.

thx - cpr
 
orca8589 said:
Thanks for the info, guys. :thumbup: The linseed oil in the hole thing seems odd to me. My handles are sealed, so I may sand down the finish and do the soak that way, like Glock said. Most folks I know just set the handle down into a long galvanized flower box, and left it for a few days; their handles were not pre-sealed though, like mine.

thx - cpr
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Your method would work just fine (the flower box thing). My only concern (a small one, though) would be 'stuff' getting into the 'trough' if it is left uncovered...

Although, the only real problem would just be that it might get a little contaminated...
 
thats what i do, sand the handles down every year, drift the wedge if needed and soak it over the winter in tung oil and linseed oil. Come spring i removes, wipe dry leave in a heated area for several days to dry.
 
Budsboy said:
Raw Linseed oil is what to use.
I don't know about the drilled hole though . . .
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I don't mean to be disagreeable with our new brother here on the axe subforum but I do agree with "Budsboy" that raw linseed oil is much better for axe handles in several facets

By watching 2 different videos and taking the advice of 2 very wise old timers I'm convinced that the raw linseed oil is the best treatment for hickory axe handles.

Now I have no doubt that there are probably synthetic chemicals now on the market that do just as good or even better but the linseed oil sure makes the axe look nice as well. It is interesting that I'm finding raw linseed oil very hard to find now a days.

As far as hanging the bit itself I use a wood swelling compound now instead of linseed oil. Swell Lock is a popular brand but I use the one made by the DAP company and it works great.

Welcome :) You're among friends
 
It may be a NC thing but a couple of old blacksmiths I knew wood drill a hole in the handles of their hammers like you described and fill the hole up with motor oil a couple times a week and sit on the end till the next morning. They claimed it preserve the wood,help keep the head tight and would heal the wood if they made a miss lick and hit with handle instead of the head. Never tried it myself.

Never heard the about the wire thing.
 
JD Spydo said:
Welcome :) You're among friends
Click to expand...

Thank you -
I build target grade M1 Garands and the boiled/raw debate has just about been beat to death in that community.
In the October '09 "Wooden Boat" magazine there is quite an in depth article about how raw liseed oil is the best choice for swelling and preserving wood boats.
The raw oil soaks in and cures slowly - the boiled oil cures fast and stays on the top.
 
Budsboy said:
The raw oil soaks in and cures slowly - the boiled oil cures fast and stays on the top.
Click to expand...

That's good to know; I know about the debate issue, it's been going on among all the old folks I grew up around for as long as I could remember.

thx - cpr
 
Budsboy said:
Thank you -
I build target grade M1 Garands and the boiled/raw debate has just about been beat to death in that community.
In the October '09 "Wooden Boat" magazine there is quite an in depth article about how raw liseed oil is the best choice for swelling and preserving wood boats.
The raw oil soaks in and cures slowly - the boiled oil cures fast and stays on the top.
Click to expand...

Target grade M1 sounds like fun. I have one they are alot of fun to shoot.
 
maybe the wire was to protect the handle when you overshot when splitting wood and such, you know to keep it from chipping
 
backwoodsboy said:
maybe the wire was to protect the handle when you overshot when splitting wood and such, you know to keep it from chipping
Click to expand...

That's what it was for, I'm pretty sure. I just can't find a technique for doing it, so I'll experiment with it.

thx - cpr
 
wrap mine with old copper wire, wrap electrical tape around that no need to drill any holes.
 
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