Wondering how durable the Ti coating is on the Alaskan series.

F

fordfun

Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
5
Hello, I am new to the forum here but a lifelong knife enthusiast. I recently purchased the Alaskan Guide 110 from Cabelas and think its a beautiful knife. However, when looking at the knife on display, I noticed that the Ti coating was wearing through at the pivot point of the blade, where it rubs between the bolsters. As it was the display model, I'm sure it had been opened and closed many times, but I was surprised to see the wear, considering its rubbing against brass which I assumed was pretty soft. I was wondering what kind of experience other owners have had with this coating, and if there was anything I can do to minimize the wear. I'm half afraid to open it too much.

Thank You, Gary
 
I bought one when they first came available,and it had wear in the pivot area after a few open/closings.Thats the only wear on mine aftewr 5-6 years and heavy use on deer,bear,small game,camp chores,you name it.It is very durable imho.
 
I believe mine has the Idaho tang stamp indicating 2005.

Been using a couple of them on deer, turkey and some hogs each hunting season since. No adverse effects. I wouldn't worry about a little wear on the tang.
 
Hi Fordfun,

welcome to the Buck forum! Like the two fellows above, I have used mine for the last five years as my main EDC and primary deer camp knife. I have a few small scrach's at the pivot. The coating still looks new. I did note that there are color variations in this coating...from a dark gun metal to jet black.

jb4570
 
There were several color variations in those AG 110's. One of mine is even a shiny gloss black.
 
Ford, Welcome . Like the previous posters say, its a great knife . The entire package !
I keep my pivot oiled w/ food grade mineral oil as I use it cutting food items . That has halted much of the scalding in the area you speak . That titanium is quite hard, not tough, there were a couple different types Buck used . (another on the Bass Pro model)
I've inadvertly scraped mine on a AO sharpening stone it began removing some .
Enjoy your AG 110 . DM
 
Thanks for all of the helpful comments. I went ahead and cleaned as much buffing compound out of it as I could (thought it might add to the problem) and used a touch of CLP on the pivot. I just hated marking up a really nice looking knife. I know these are far from expensive, but its nicest folder I've ever purchased.

Thanks, Gary
 
fordfun said:
Thanks for all of the helpful comments. I went ahead and cleaned as much buffing compound out of it as I could (thought it might add to the problem) and used a touch of CLP on the pivot. I just hated marking up a really nice looking knife. I know these are far from expensive, but its nicest folder I've ever purchased.

Thanks, Gary
Click to expand...

Gary,
Don't be afraid to use it. Heck, just get another one if you want one as a collectible.

Cleaning it, Take a can of WD40 with the red tube and spray the inside. Work the blade to wash out the grime, repeat as necessary, blow it out with an air compressor between sprayings.

Then take a tooth brush and hot soapy water and wash it on the inside to get the WD40 and remaining grime out, working the blade.

Run water in it as hot as you can get it till the metal heats up, blow it out and dry it and the hot metal will finish drying it on the inside.

I rarely ever oil a 110. I have seen no need. But then I don't deploy a 110 blade multiple times a day, like some may.

Far as the S30V I have found it to hold an edge when processing deer much longer than 420hc steel. Got about 2 deer out of 420. Get at least 4 out of S30V before It needs touching up.

Enjoy...
 
fordfun said:
I was wondering what kind of experience other owners have had with this coating,
Click to expand...

I bought a coated AG in mid 2007. I covered the blade with mineral oil and stored it away for a year or so without checking it. I got the knife out for some reason and found that a section of the coating had blistered - it was around the middle of the blade and the section was roughly an inch long by half an inch. I wiped it with a paper towel and it came off to reveal naked steel underneath. The effect was like what you normally get when you use paint stripper.

Given that the coating now looked pretty bad I decided to remove the rest of it. Man that took some work. I tried paint stripper and it had no effect. Eventually I got it off with a combination of glass paper, scouring pad and abrasive cleaner but it took some work. Something else might have been quicker but I wanted to preserve the gind lines.

It was more a mystery to me than a drama. I polished up the blade and it looks fine and it became a user which is what I had original purchased it for so I wasn't too bothered.


I have no idea what caused the blistering - the knife had never been used at that point and was not stored in the sheath. I can tell you that the remainder of the coating did not come off easy.
 
2many, Good info.. I wouldn't think mineral oil could cause the blister . Thats the first I've heard of something like that happening . DM
 
Pack Rat said:
2many,,, Are you sure it was mineral oil, and not mineral spirits?
Click to expand...

No - definitely mineral oil - same stuff I have been using for years. I don't think the mineral oil was the cause but neither do I have any other explanation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top