Wood filler?

R

raybateson

Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Messages
196
Re-hafted and wedged my new A&A danish axe but there's some pretty wide gaps between the wood and shims at the top of the eye and they're intolerable to look at. Is wood filler durable enough to handle the pounding/vibrations that would be passing through it? If not, what other options exist for a strong filler material with a wood-simulated look?
 
Use some smaller wood shims to fill in, glue and wedge them in.....
 
would epoxy of some sort be durable enough? it would probably easier to fill the cracks.
 
Well first I'd ask if the head is on there really snug and if you're certain it's just a cosmetic issue. I wouldn't fill it until giving it a good workout doing some chopping/splitting. My suggestion would be a mixture of clear epoxy and fine wood dust from sanding. I usually sand new handles from 150 up to 400 grit to remove any varnish before giving some coats of linseed or tru-oil. Do the same, collect the dust, and use that :thumbup:
 
killa_concept said:
Well first I'd ask if the head is on there really snug and if you're certain it's just a cosmetic issue. I wouldn't fill it until giving it a good workout doing some chopping/splitting. My suggestion would be a mixture of clear epoxy and fine wood dust from sanding. I usually sand new handles from 150 up to 400 grit to remove any varnish before giving some coats of linseed or tru-oil. Do the same, collect the dust, and use that :thumbup:
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Yeah, the fit is definitely rock-solid. And I've never epoxied a socket before, though, I had already considered trying this. It's the idea of having to having to scour epoxy off the steel at a later date that troubles me. Unless there's a dissolvent or steel-friendly means of removing hardened epoxy?
 
raybateson said:
Yeah, the fit is definitely rock-solid. And I've never epoxied a socket before, though, I had already considered trying this. It's the idea of having to having to scour epoxy off the steel at a later date that troubles me. Unless there's a dissolvent or steel-friendly means of removing hardened epoxy?
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Plenty of paint strippers out there that will do the trick if you need to remove it.
 
Use Brownells acraglass release agent on the steel. Simply "bed" the ax head to the handle as you would "bed" a rifle barrel to a stock. Acraglas gel kit at Brownells.
 
bigbcustom said:
Use Brownells acraglass release agent on the steel. Simply "bed" the ax head to the handle as you would "bed" a rifle barrel to a stock. Acraglas gel kit at Brownells.
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Make certain there are no undercuts in the eye. The eye should have a smooth finish and a slight taper.
 
I'm just going to ask a dumb question: What would be the trouble of redoing it, being careful not to make the same error?
 
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