wood finish

jrhart50

jrhart50

Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
261
I am about to finish some redwood Burl on 3 trapers and my ? is what is the best finish on stablized redwood to make it realy have a deet shine.
Thanks JRH.
 
If it's stabilized,sand it to 1500 and light buff with pink no scratch.
Stan
 
:) You don't have to do anything other than sand to at least 800 or so grit if it's stabilized. Just buff with White Diamond or something similiar. I sometimes use Watco natural finish on stabilized wood. Can't say it really helps the finish a great deal.
 
That's what I thought for a long time. Made knives I was happy with that way. Then Mark (BurlSource) plus some local makers conviced me to try oil finishes on my stabilized wood after 400 grit or so. I was amazed how much more figure popped out. Just looked at the first of these, done last summer and it's darker but the amount of detail is still impressive to me.
 
I first used TruOil and am still (this is recent) using most of the time. I've tried Teak Oil on some Kingwood+Blackwood and it didn't seem to do much. Ditto on for Watco Natural on some lighter spalted Holly. Just got in a sample of Waterlox original but so far TruOil has been the best for me.
 
Dan, I've been wanting to try oil on stabilized wood. Can you provide some more details? How many coats, dry times, etc.

Thanks

Phil
 
I use the Dembart Stock Oil from Jantz Supply. Just rub it on with my finger. Amazes me how many coats it will absorb, even being stabilized. Let it dry and buff with 0000 steel wool between coats, then hit with pink scratchless on a loose buff after final coat. It seems that I can get more of it to absorb than the TruOil, but both work.

Richard
 
I like the teak oil.It darkens the light woods a bit of course,but really brings out grain and figure.Its the best moisture sealer also,although that likely isnt needed if its already stabilized.
 
My answer may be considered wrong by some of you guys, but.... this is what works for me. Or at least, this is how I like to do it.

Fine sand to over 1000 grit, I like 1500. I prefer to sand by hand when I get beyond 400 grit. I clip a clamp on light to my desk top so the light source is behind the piece I am sanding so I can see any scratches and areas that make look a little duller than the rest of the wood.

For the hand sanding I use the stick on round sandpaper that is intended for random orbital sanders. I cut the piece into 1/4s. Then I peel off the backing and stick the sandpaper to my 1st 2 fingers. This way the sandpaper doesn't slip around when I am sanding.

I blow off the piece in between grits to insure there is no abrasive left from previous grit paper. I feel if you sand to the point where it looks finished to you that is fine enough.

(a quick note) Do not apply oil in a cold or damp shop! Make sure the wood and the oil are both at a room temperature above 50f.

After blowing off the piece then get out some oil. Danish, tung, tru or teak.
I take an old t-shirt and get a little oil on the cloth and rub it in with my fingertip. Let it set about 30 minutes and rub down with dry t-shirt. About an hour later I wipe on more oil and repeat. 2 or 3 times should be enough. I just make sure everything looks even under a light.

After it sits for a day or 2 in a heated room you can apply some wood paste wax. Pretend like you are shining a pair of shoes. Those of you who have been in the military know what I am talking about. Buff by hand with an old towel or whatever cloth you have on hand.

The stabilized wood usually looks good enough after just fine sanding, but using just a touch of oil makes the colors look more vibrant and the figure flashier in my opinion.

The hand sanding and oil might be overkill, but for me it is relaxing. Allows me to wind down and relax.

Disclaimer:
You might have a better way to finish stabilized wood. This is just how I like to do it.
 
hi,i read earlier in this thread that you can sand to 1500 then buff with pink scrachless. ive never used the pink. so mabey it is different. i use green chrome alot but if it gets on wood i have a hard time getting it off. what am i missing? is it the pink scratchless or the is it the stabilized wood?
 
willy m said:
hi,i read earlier in this thread that you can sand to 1500 then buff with pink scrachless. ive never used the pink. so mabey it is different. i use green chrome alot but if it gets on wood i have a hard time getting it off. what am i missing? is it the pink scratchless or the is it the stabilized wood?
Click to expand...

The green is good for steel,not for wood.Get the pink or white.
 
Burl Source said:
The stabilized wood usually looks good enough after just fine sanding, but using just a touch of oil makes the colors look more vibrant and the figure flashier in my opinion.

Disclaimer:
You might have a better way to finish stabilized wood. This is just how I like to do it.
Click to expand...

Putting an oil coat on proper pro impregnated wood makes it prone to show finger prints. The step you are missing with good impregnated wood is buffing with Tripoli compound after fine, polish sanding. Following Tripoli with White diamond compound bumps it up a notch.
 
For a bright surface with 3-D look to the burl, try a super glue finish.I have had excellent results with it on redwood, which can often look rather dull. It also fills all the cracks and pores.
Bruce Bump did a tutorial a few years ago, but the basic process is to sand to 1000 or higher, then flood with thin CA. Wipe off with an acetone dampened cloth, and after allowing time to cure, sand off. Repeat this over and over again....often as many as 20 times. The final finish is sanded down and then buffed by hand to a full luster.

OK, I found it. Scroll on down to the tutorial part. -
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=659442&highlight=ca+debonder&page=2
 
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