1
"I don't know how many people sweated all night trying to duplicate the magical ingredients in "Hoppes" gun gleaning oil. It has this wonderful intoxicating smell, and all it ever was was plain old petroluem oil with some (of all things) bananna oil (?) mixed in for smell. "
2
"> I recently was going through a stack of old ww mags when I came across a short article that claimed you could "clarify" linseed oil to reduce "tackiness". You do this by pouring linseed oil into a clear glass container, then adding two iodine crystals. Place the container in direct sunlight for about two weeks and a "considerable of gunk" will settle to the bottom. Decant off the clear liquid into a clean container, and you have "clarified" linseed oil.
> My questions are:
> 1. Has anyone done this?
> 2. Is it worthwhile?"
"Bob J. asks if anyone has clarified linseed oil per a process he came across and if it is worthwhile. No I haven't done it, but if it was worthwhile wouldn't we be able to buy such clarified oil in our local borg?
On the other hand, maybe we could at one time. The name Watco Oil is still around, but the original formula and company is not. That original Watco Oil was linseed oil that had gone thru some sort of additional processing that altered it fairly substantially; I can recall having tried it once and not being too impressed. Maybe that process was Bob's clarifying? If it was, does the fact it faded away say something about how worthwhile it was? Maybe in general, but certainly not to everyone; I've seen some lamentations about the fact you can't get that original formula any more. The current Watco Oil is a tung oil variation. The original Watco Oil (maybe the current one too?) came in a clear or in various wood colors. I'd tried the clear and, as I recall, found it to do about zip to enhance a finish. "
3
"-----about WATCO
I have used it for years. It works great!!!! I do Find the MIN WAX antique oil finish to be very similar. and it may build just a tad quicker"
4
"As I recall, the history of Watco Danish Oil, sans dates is:
- Owned by Watco, Inc.
- Bought by Minwax (/Thompsons, now part of Sherwin-Williams) in NJ
- Reformulated
- Some Darwin-Award-Candidate burns his house down due to stuffing oily rag in a pile. Sues Minwax, wins.
- Minwax discontinues product because of liability.
- Similar-to-original formula developed by General Finishes, WI (still selling as General Danish Oil)
- Name bought by Flecto, CA, from Minwax
- Reformulated back to original formula; back on the shelf at your local borgs."
5
"[Ryan wrote, I don't normally use linseed oil(because it provides zero protection) except as an additive to some oil/varnish built up finishes, but one Linseed oil product that I like very much is Tru-Oil by (I think) Birchwood Casey. It builds very quickly into a deeply glossy and protective finish and will look like polyurethane if you aren't careful, but it is wonderfully easy to apply by just "dotting" small amounts on and hand-rubbing them in. Artistic use of steel wool and hand rubbing can leave a limitless variety of matte/glossy/satin textures to your heart's content.]
For years I have used Tru-Oil to refinish gunstocks and I agree that it is very easy to apply and to manipulate to any desired appearance. I then read that Frank Klauz recommended Waterlox (a polymerized tung oil) for furniture. When I opened the can, I recognized the smell. This was confirmed by using the product. If not identical to Tru-Oil, it is awfully close. Perhaps the only difference is the use of tung oil instead of linseed oil in the formulation. In addition, Waterlox is much less expensive by the quart or gallon than the little bottles of Tru-Oil. I simply wipe it on with a cotton rag. It usually requires 3-4 coats. Then knock down the gloss with 0000 steel wool and wax. The result is a beautiful, and protective sheen. "
Waterlox Link:
http://www.waterlox.com/
