Wood Handle Durability ?

Joined
Aug 5, 2009
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Andy's handle's are second to none in terms of comfort. I used a hunter of his for 5-years and loved it. I'm searching for a replacement for the hunter and I've always admired the beautiful wooden handled knives he creates. Any ideas in terms of durability on his wooden handled knives ? The knife will get used and used hard, be subject to temperature changes etc...

I'm sure anything he makes is meant to be used hard but curious to hear and see some real world examples of hard working Fiddleback wooden handled knives
 
As a long term wood fiddleback user, I'll leave you with this thought -- if you insist on going with natural material, I'd recommend natural hardwood (ironwood, blackwood, blood wood, padouk, rosewood, wenge, bocote, etc) .. Regardless even the best hardwood can warp, shrink, split, etc. Based on your usage description, is probably recommend going with a synthetic.
 
His stabalized wood can block bullets. I have no doubts in regards to durability. I would say to get a "grippier" wood like Wenge, rosewood, or Blackwood as wood can get slick when wet.
 
^+1 I agree with xxwjtxx, you're probably better off with a synthetic for hard use, and temp changes. I like the Shade Tree burlaps. :thumbup::)
 
I'm still kicking myself for letting the hunter bounce around in the cup holder of the Mule and bounce out. Accidents happen :( I have yet to see a knife of Andy's that I didn't like. I'll have to really try to monitor my computer on Friday. Thanks for the info was thinking synthetic was the way to go but wow some of the wooden handles he puts out are just incredible
 
I have to agree with everyone so far, I would try a synthetic. Andy makes synthetics look amazing! A little natural micara behind a cool synthetic give a real "organic" feel! The burlaps are great when wet!
 
Here's a response from another thread by Andy that I found really insightful - http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1086582-Stability-and-Durability-of-Wood-vs-Micarta

Micarta is more stable, tougher, and longer lasting than wood. Period. Not even close. In a thousand years an anthropologist will unearth my knife. The steel is dust, our civ is a memory in books, but the micarta is just a bit darker than it was when new.

Wood moves, checks, cracks and warps. Period. I guarantee this will happen to every piece of wood on this planet stabilized or unstabilized. In my guarantee, I specifically address this issue.

"Natural handle materials such as stag, bone, wood, pearl and ivory may shrink, crack, and/or discolor with change in temperature, or humidity or age. As this is normal, expected, and can normally be avoided with maintenance these issues would not be covered under this warranty."

I have only made myself one knife with stabilized wood handles. Stabilized wood will crack, warp, chip and check just like any other wood. It is more stable vs water, but IMO, less stable vs heat. I've heard lots of makers go on and on about how it makes the wood better. IMO, it turns the wood into a plastic that is not as good as phenolic plastics at being stable. There are plusses and minusses, but it is no cure all for wood behavior.

Now, I love wood handles. It is a suitable handle material. It has been proven for thousands of years. It is beautiful, and warm, and light, and I have made myself a LOT of wooden handled knives. I happen to love the woods that are naturally stable like Cocobolo, Rosewoods, Ironwood, and Osage Orange the best. They require care, and understanding of what they are. If you inundate them in water and don't dry them, put them in the dishwasher, leave them on the dash of your car, or travel to and from Las Vegas from GA, then you're going to see the effects of this natural material reacting to its environment. Then again, if you respect them and maintain them they can last for a long long time.

Stabilized wood is a suitable handle material also, and allows us to use woods that just aren't usable when unstable. Burls and Black Palm for example. Mostly though, I use them because of customer demand and not personal preference. There was a table at Blade Show selling stabilized Rosewoods, Cocobolo, Bocote, etc. Hey, if you just want the previously mentioned heavier and slippery when wet, go for it, but it doesn't make the wood any better IMO.

I use only quality materials on my knives. Maintenance is required for longevity.
 
Thanks Grizz, I was trying to find that quote from Andy.

I've started going after natural hardwoods (African Blackwood, Ironwood, Cocobolo) for my EDC blades. But my hard use bushcrafting blades will always have micarta or shadetree burlap.

It doesn't matter how hard the wood is, it's going to shrink, move, etc. Take a look at http://www.wood-database.com/ for some of your favorite woods and see what the typical shrinkage and hardness is.

Being in the ultra dry environment here in Colorado, wood handles coming from humid GA take some maintenance. Mineral Oil is my go to for keeping the handles (and blades) maintained.
 
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