Wood Handles for Hard-Use Knives..Your Experiece??

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Oct 8, 1998
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So,

There is this local maker who prefers to offer his knives with wood handles. And given that I really respect his style and artistry, I am planning on buying a couple of his knives with wood handles. But, I have very little experience with wood handles, and have heard all sorts of horror stories about them moving and cracking, etc.

To the point-

1) What has been your experience with wood handles in use?

2) Any wood rise to the top as a proven performer?

3) Sought after characteristics would be reistance to moisture, toughness, what else?

4) What 5 woods would be the best for a knife handle?

In short, what all do you all know about wood for knife handles that I should know?

------------------
Thank you,
Marion David Poff aka Eye mdpoff@hotmail.com

My website, guided links, talonite/cobalt alloy info, etc....
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There is little wrong with wood handles when made with the right kind of wood. Hickory, springs to mind. Where they most often go wrong on tools is when not used often enough and are alowed to dry out; or left in the wet week after week. Lack of regular use and neglect is the main cause of harm. High impact can also do damage obviously.

The art of replacing a handle has almost been lost. However, a good wood handle should last years and I have seen many where the blade has worn out before the handle. The recent fashion of heavy over built knives might run counter to a handle of natural material, but on finer tapered blades they are still hard to beat.

We all tend to have solft hands these days and wood still feels good. If you work enough to have hardened hands then wood can still give you all the grip you need. To me wood keeps up with the job you are doing. Roughens when you are in the conditions where you need more grip; smoothens when you need less friction. Natural oils from your hand will help feed the wood.

The more difficult task is actually locating quality wood that has had time to dry naturally, 10 year old cut wood. Too often wood is still green, or even worse chemically/heat, force dried. It just has not had time to naturally stabalise.

I have no problem with wood as a handle material. I also like the harder thermo plastics, micarta, treated leather washers, and the chequred steel of CRK's. Krayton and the modern soft materials give the most painful of blisters. All will give blisters if your hands are soft and you do some prolonged energetic work. Leather and wood can always be roughened up, and seem almost self healing. Stag, bone, horn and brittle man made are the only materials I tend to stay well clear of.

 
Never had a problem with wooden handles. My Roselli erapuukko (hunter) has a gorgeous Arctic birch handle, and this knife is a user. I treat my wooden handled implements (axes, knives) with tung oil, which seems to hold up to moisture better than linseed oil.
 
Is Renaissance wax [wwhich I use] or Tufcloth useful on wood?
 
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