Wood Handles for Hard-Use Knives..Your Experiece??

[Marion David Poff]

So,

There is this local maker who prefers to offer his knives with wood handles. And given that I really respect his style and artistry, I am planning on buying a couple of his knives with wood handles. But, I have very little experience with wood handles, and have heard all sorts of horror stories about them moving and cracking, etc.

To the point-

1) What has been your experience with wood handles in use?

2) Any wood rise to the top as a proven performer?

3) Sought after characteristics would be reistance to moisture, toughness, what else?

4) What 5 woods would be the best for a knife handle?

In short, what all do you all know about wood for knife handles that I should know?

------------------
Thank you,
Marion David Poff aka Eye mdpoff@hotmail.com

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[knifenerd]

Eye: I think it depends on the way the wood is prepared for "knife use" rather than the type of wood itself.

Most woods are "stabilized" by being subjected to a pressure treatment consisting of epoxy-resin impregnation under heat and pressure resulting in a material that is vitually impervious to the elements.

I have an old Buck 110 that has been "around the block" several times with almost no sign of wear of the wood inlays.

You might want to inquire of the maker, but I think you'll find that most modern woods are designed for hard, long term use.

Dick

 

[Marion David Poff]

Thank you.

MDP

 

[floyd]

I've carried and used my wood inlay Sebenza everyday for the last year and a half. In that time, the stabilized wood has gotten a couple of small nicks, but so has the rest of the knife. Overall, I'd say the titanium surrounding the wood shows more small scratches.

 

[Steve-O]

MDP,

The wood handled knives that I own that see the most use in the worst conditions...are my kitchen knives.

I have a couple 20 year old Chicago Cutlery knives that have had nothing more than a twice a year oiling, the handles are in great condition. Back then they didn't stabilize woods, they only used a superior grade. Walnut, not a crack or split.

I also have a non-stabilized Desert Ironwood handled fillet knife. Made in 1990, the local maker filled a couple holes and cracks with epoxy and buffed it, but did nothing else. It looks almost as good as new, despite the numerous fish it has seen.

I don't know that Ironwood needs stabilization...anyone know?

Hopes this helps,

Steve-O

EDIT

Floyd - Your inlay may crack, split, even splinter, but it won't fall out! Chris uses VHB adhesive on his inlays and the stuff is amazing!

[This message has been edited by Steve-O (edited 03-29-2001).]

 

[fracmeister]

(aside) Dang, maybe this was the kind of post that made that inspired that hate mail (LOL)

(to the point) I have had a few wood handled knives that have taken monstrous abuse including hammering. I wouldn't shy away from quality wood handled knives myself.