Wood sealing wax

T

Tinbasher

Joined
Jan 24, 2007
Messages
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Hi,What wax can be used to seal knife scale wood??

I just came back from Tasmania with a load of wood I would like to store untill I am ready to use it for my knife scales.
Any options will be greatly appreciated.
Richard
 
Sorry, I can't tell you what kind of wax to use, but I'm pretty sure you want to let your new load of wood dry slowly under controlled conditions, probably without storing it where it will get too hot. Fast drying and heat would be likely to cause more warping than might otherwise occur. I wouldn't think about sealing it until it's dry and/or whenever you make handles out of it.
 
Dr. Mudd said:
Sorry, I can't tell you what kind of wax to use, but I'm pretty sure you want to let your new load of wood dry slowly under controlled conditions, probably without storing it where it will get too hot. Fast drying and heat would be likely to cause more warping than might otherwise occur. I wouldn't think about sealing it until it's dry and/or whenever you make handles out of it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that but it has been sitting in a shed for over a year before I bought it.
 
What kind of wood is it? Bloodwood? What lengths and thicknesses?

Depending on the moisture content of the wood when you got it and the width and thickness of the wood you brought back, a year may or may not be a long enough time. I'm supposing Tasmania's climate is not much different than yours, in which case, I would still let the wood "rest" for some time. In any event, I would say DO NOT try to seal the pores of the wood, at any time until you've finished a project. THe end grain you can seal with a mixture of yellow (or white) glue and water - paint it on with an acid brush or any cheap throw-away brush. Wax can work on end grain, but glue/water is better.
 
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StretchNM said:
What kind of wood is it? Bloodwood? What lengths and thicknesses?

Depending on the moisture content of the wood when you got it and the width and thickness of the wood you brought back, a year may or may not be a long enough time. I'm supposing Tasmania's climate is not much different than yours, in which case, I would still let the wood "rest" for some time. In any event, I would say DO NOT try to seal the pores of the wood, at any time until you've finished a project. THe end grain you can seal with a mixture of yellow (or white) glue and water - paint it on with an acid brush or any cheap throw-away brush. Wax can work on end grain, but glue/water is better.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input ,I have used wood glue before but thought the wax method was better because when I buy scales from ebay or online they normaly come waxed all over, if glue is better then I will stick with that.
The wood is Blackheart Sassafras in 6" X 6" X 3/4" but I want to cut it into ready to use pieces.You can see a picture here.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506502
 
I have used just sealing wax for home canning, just melt the bars and dip you pieces. My experience is that it will still loose moisture but very slowly. If the wood is wet (after a year not likely) just seal the ends so moisture can excape from the sides of the wood. Otherwise cut to pieces larger than a single project but small enough to coat with a brush or dip. Note if you wax coat wet pieces, when you go to use them they will most likely warp and crack. Let them warp and crack when larger so you can cut good pieces. I got most of my experience with wood turning.

One last note, if the wood is wet (high moisture) put in a carboard box with alot of crumpled news paper and place in a closet. The paper will equilze the moisture around the wood and prevent quick drying which the cause of alot of cracking. If you cut thinner than 3/4 you risk warping if the wood is not dry.
 
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