Wood spliting

S

sasha

Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
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For some of you it might be just common sense and something that everyone knows.
But when it the best time to split wood? I collect fire wood for my parents house to use in the fire place. I pick it most of the time on the side of the road or on a sidewalk. It is left behind after some tree removale. I use wedges and an 8lb hammer. I been doing it for a few years now and done many truck loads.
The wood can be anything from pine to oak or anything else. Some pieces would be as big as 2+ft in diameter and a foot to a foot and a half tall. Don't even ask me how I pick them up some must be well over 100lb. The Pine I found last night is full of sap so I might have some fatwood on my hands.
If I try and split it green and wet it just seems to take in the wedge and hold it. I have to get the wedge all the way thru or sometimes would need to use 2-3 wedges one next to another to split the wood. When the wood is dry Its hard to get the wedge into the wood. It sometimes feels like hitting rocks. Had the hammer bounce back on me a time or two. I don't have enough wood to split to spend the money for a splitter. How you guys do it? I got a large truck load of wood and hope to get more. Besides helping to keep the place warm. My mom just loves to sit in the living room and watch the fire. Hearing the wood make noise when it burns always reminds her of growing up in a small town. So one way or another a good son like me has to bring fire wood.
What methods everyone else is using to split the wood??
 
Well you could try getting off chunks. There are usually natural cracks in wood that you can use to take big chunks out using an axe/hatchet. Reading wood patterns is important too, don't try to go right down the middle everytime, like I said reading wood patterns and looking for existing cracks really help. Try to take off big chunks as you work your way into the center. I mean you know from experience I'm sure that sometimes the things split no problem and other times they are a pain in the ass. So learning to distinguish the type of wood, age, pattern of the wood, and find any existing cracks can really help no matter what tool you are using. I prefer an axe personally, read the wood and knock off a chunk. For the most part though, chopping wood is hard work but it's also fun and good exercise.

Wedges are great for big logs, and if you're having troubling getting one in try using an axe or hatchet, or even a knife to baton yourself an entry point. I hope this kind of helped a little, I'm sure someone here knows some really neat tricks.
 
I believe a lot depends on the particular wood you have on hand. Some wood splits very easy almost any time. Some needs to dry a bit before it will separate. Some hardwoods need to be pretty dry to split at all.

Personally, I split and store wood all year. I supplement our heating at the home with wood heat. Often I collect rounds from local state parks after a storm or when they cut up an old tree. I have family members that needed a tree or two cut down, which I'm happy to do and keep for firewood.

My current method is an 8 lb maul and wedge. It's worked well for me. If a round is particularly stubborn, sometimes the chainsaw helps. I keep all my firewood stacked up on wooden pallets up off the ground by cinder blocks. It seems to me that air circulation really helps wood dry out. When the wet season starts, I tarp the stack for winter. I keep the wood pile 70' away from the house to discourage insects from moving in. :) the front porch has a small metal log rack that holds almost enough firewood for one weeks use for us.

So far, wood heat is one of my favorite things about winter in the Midwest.
 
I split firewood when its seasoned and dry , it is easiest then in my experience .
Natural cracks and splits are bonus , use them to start your wedges , the grain is allready letting go there , why not ?
When Im cutting a log up with the chainsaw , I keep the sections pretty short , it makes splitting easier .
Hope it helps
 
No fuss

[video=youtube;KdXzaGFkWfU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=KdXzaGFkWfU[/video]

[video=youtube;EA2PZFgIDWM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EA2PZFgIDWM[/video]
 
I have to admit I don't split it, I saw it with the chainsaw, I've done 6 cords in the last couple of months that way.

You could also try and work a deal with someone who has a log splitter, it's always easier with 2 people do maybe you could trade time for wood.

This is a good resource for wood splitting.

http://firewoodresource.com/faq/when-to-split-firewood/
 
Thanks for a advice guys. It seems that more people would prefer to let the wood dry first before they split it. Always try and find splits and cracks to use to help split the wood.
KuRupTD that's some cool looking wood splitter.. If I had the money I would buy one just to play with it..
I did find a hydraulic hand operated wood splitter for sale for under $100, Going to try that one.

Sasha
 
It won't work in LA, but I like to split when it is well below freezing. Below zero is better but rare in my area.

If you get a Gransfors wedge, it will shave hair off your arm and you can get it started by just slamming it into the log with your hand. Don't have to tap it with your maul or sledge.

I hope all is well with you!

DancesWithKnives
 
Cheap low powered wood splitters suck. Much faster with a good splitting axe and sharp wedges (Wetterlings makes a nice twisted one).

Hydraulic wood splitters for tractors are fast and effective, but I'm guessing you don't have a tractor so that's out.

I keep them short (13-15") when dividing up a tree I've felled and split when fresh if possible usually using an axe, but we use the JD if I've felled lots of trees and we don't have much time.

It dries much faster when split.
 
Start splitting pieces off from the edges first then work in toward the middle on the big ones.--KV
 
Having grownup and lived with wood heat most of my life plus selling split firewood for a few years I've split quite a bit of wood.

As has been said, look for the cracks and how the wood wants to split.

Also, as you are scavenging wood you are probably getting quite a few butt cuts, the first stick or two from the base of the tree. These are always going to be your toughest to split due to the interlocking grain structure of reaction wood. Some are just going to be a bear to crack open with multiple wedges.

Wedge angles make a lot of difference too. With easy to split wood wedges with wide tapers can pop the sticks open with just a lick or two with the hammer. Tough gnarly twisted grain wood needs a longer more gradual taper. A wedge with a too obtuse angle in some woods can be aggravating because pressure from the splits can pop the wedge back out of the split.

Most of all relax, take your time and have fun. Not much is as satisfying as a crisp fall day and a pile of wood to split.
 
Hey David I sure do hope I never find out how much easier its to splitt fire wood cause its cold freezing outside lol..
I don't have much of a choice about the wood I pick up unless I don't want it. Many have knots in the wood and plenty are long, So I saw them in half to help splitt them. I do try and look for the weak part of the wood like cracks and how the grain flows. I just thought there is an easier way to splitt wood.
Stray a few times by the end of the day I couldn't feel my arms from swinging the sledge hammer. But I do agree there is something about it when at the end of the day you see a stack of splitt wood grows and you can see the end of your labor.
I also have some wood that no matter what you do you cant splitt it. The wedge wont even mark them, Those pieces I just burn whole.
 
The nice thing about splitting dry wood is that you often don't need wedges or a maul, except on the really big chunks. A good sharp axe and proper technique will be a lot easier on your arms. If you swing an axe with the head angled a bit, the impact will first bury the edge in the wood before snapping it back to a vertical, straight up and down position. This quick sideways snap can help rip the wood apart, letting you do the same work with a lighter axe as you would with a heavier maul.
 
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