wood stabilization- filling voids

C

Callum.D

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Jul 17, 2015
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I recently was proccessing some old jarrah telegraph poles in to appropriately sized pieces for turning. The outside of these poles, while cracked and darkened, have not significantly rotted.
I thought perhaps if I stabilized the wood and filled the cracks with an interestingly coloured acrylic they could make a cool handle scale.

Now I understand the process of stablising the wood itself but I am a little clueless when it comes to filling large voids. Is there any kind special process (such as a vacuum) required to ensure the acrylic completely fills the cracks? I also want to avoid discolourng the wood with the coloured acrylic, I imagine that this means that I do the initial stablisation of the wood before I proceed to the acrylic? Anyone out there have some knowhow in this area?
 
Filling the very large void is more of a resin casting issue than wood stabilization. You will need a mold/mould. Sometimes you can produce a silicone mold rather easily.
 
Stabilise first. Don't wrap in foil when curing and allow for the resin to drain from the voids you want to later cast.

I use alumilite clear and cast under 60lbs pressure in a paint pot. If I don't have a mold the right size for the wood in casting I just dam it up with modeling clay.
 
Not a void but same principle

R5g6x1.jpg
 
Jarrah doesn't take stabilizing well at all. It has a closed pore structure and a high natural oils content. It doesn't need it at all.
 
Ok, I will take your word on that greenburg, I was only really considering stabilisation because I was concerned thay the acrylic could permeate into the wood otherwise. Is this still a valid concern?

Also kuraki, you said 60psi. So High pressures are reccommended for this?

Finally what type/brands of resin do you learned guys reccommend? Thanks for all the help btw
 
Greenberg Woods said:
Jarrah doesn't take stabilizing well at all. It has a closed pore structure and a high natural oils content. It doesn't need it at all.
Click to expand...
I totally disagree. Have you stabilized jarrah Ben?

We had jarrah stabilized by K&G and it worked very well. Stabilization stopped the continual cracking problem. We stabilized a few hundred blocks over several years.

Filling the voids in Jarrah is a whole separate issue. We used cyanoacrylate and jarrah dust. It takes a long time to fill the voids but the wood looks great when finished. The work is worth the effort.

Chuck
 
The casting of voids isn't going to penetrate the wood grain or stain the wood in my experience but I've only done it with stabilized wood. The pressure doesn't force it into the wood, it's only to prevent bubbles in the resin.
 
Sorry guys i only just came across this thread so will add my 2c

I have stabilized plenty of Jarrah over the years and it takes stabilizing well however it does take a week or more under a full constant vacuum to achieve full penetration.

Lately i have been casting and stabilising Jarrah Burl , the burl is very prone to splitting and wouldn't normally be a viable option for knife handles unless the blocks have been cast as well.

To start i get the blocks 100% dry in the oven , 100C (212F) for 24hrs , weight periodically measured for confirmation.

The process i use is to cast with a very thin epoxy resin , the resin i use is mexapoxy HX , it is also a hydrophilic resin so not affected by moisture in the air from the compressor , i also add pearlex pigments for colour , the molds are made from cutting board material and screwed together , once the block and resin are mixed and in the mold then they go into the pressure pot at 70psi , pressure doesn't force all the air out but instead forces the resin into all the crevices and compresses the bubbles so they are not visible.

The block remains under pressure for 24hrs until cured.

I cast first to get a better bond to the timber and then stabilize with CJ , the working temp of the casting resin is above the curing temp of cactus juice so no issues there.


Raw dry Jarrah burl
CIMG6898_zpscycicy7d.jpg


After casting and stabilizing with bronze pearlex pigment
Jarrah%201_zpsthn9ykfe.jpg
 
AussieBosun said:
Sorry guys i only just came across this thread so will add my 2c

I have stabilized plenty of Jarrah over the years and it takes stabilizing well however it does take a week or more under a full constant vacuum to achieve full penetration.

Lately i have been casting and stabilising Jarrah Burl , the burl is very prone to splitting and wouldn't normally be a viable option for knife handles unless the blocks have been cast as well.

To start i get the blocks 100% dry in the oven , 100C (212F) for 24hrs , weight periodically measured for confirmation.

The process i use is to cast with a very thin epoxy resin , the resin i use is mexapoxy HX , it is also a hydrophilic resin so not affected by moisture in the air from the compressor , i also add pearlex pigments for colour , the molds are made from cutting board material and screwed together , once the block and resin are mixed and in the mold then they go into the pressure pot at 70psi , pressure doesn't force all the air out but instead forces the resin into all the crevices and compresses the bubbles so they are not visible.

The block remains under pressure for 24hrs until cured.

I cast first to get a better bond to the timber and then stabilize with CJ , the working temp of the casting resin is above the curing temp of cactus juice so no issues there.


Raw dry Jarrah burl
CIMG6898_zpscycicy7d.jpg


After casting and stabilizing with bronze pearlex pigment
Jarrah%201_zpsthn9ykfe.jpg
Click to expand...

Those look awesome! The few pieces of Jarrah that I've worked with didn't have such large voids and I was able to fill them with swarf and CA glue.
 
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