Wood Stabilization ?

G

grlangr

Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
126
Hey guys,

I need a little advice/ just your experience and knowledge?

I reciently ordered some wood, Don't want to out any names or complain here, that wouldn't be classy:). But when it got to me I noticed something, and I just have to ask: There are a LOT of fisures(sp) in the wood. It's burl, redwood burl. And was supposedly stabilised. Now am I missunderstanding the meaning of "stabilised"? Because I paid a bit extra, GLADLY, to get it because I was planning on using it for a couple of knives that are just about back from heat treating. Looking at this stuff (I know, sorry I don't have a picture to post) there is NO way I would ever send it out on a knife that I was selling!

So question 1: what would you look for that would indicate that wood was stabilised (for future ref.) ?

#2: Would stabilised woold have cracks and internal flaws all through it or would those be filled in with whatever (acrylic/resin?) was used to stabilise it?

#3: What would You advise that I do? I got a really good price on it and probably have enough of it for 4 to 6 handles depending on size. I'm not going to just scrap it, obviously.

#4: is there a simple DIY way of filling it myself that will resolve the problem without staining/ruining the wood?

#5: I've heard of people using super glue.. Does that even work?

#6: How much wood would a wood-chuck chuck it a wood-chuck could chuck wood?!? ;)

Thanks everybody!! Your advice is always appreciated!
 
From my experience, stabilization fills the wood cells. It does not fill cracks and voids in the wood very well.
Super glue can be used to fill small cracks and voids.
One way to tell if wood has been stabilized is, fresh stabilized wood has a very distinctive smell to it.
A picture of the wood would help in determining if super glue would solve the problem.
 
I've wondered about this myself. I got 2 knives with stabilized wood scales. The walnut crotch wood has some pits. They are so small my camera would not get them.
I've played guitar for years, owned many, and all the ones with natural finishes, or no finish on the neck/fretboards never had any pits, holes, fissures etc..
So, am I missing something?
 
Crotches, spalted wood and burls are known for having voids, pits etc, that's why they generally need to be stabilized in the first place. The stabilizing strengthens the wood overall but can't fill every void, especially big honkin' ones a woodchuck could hide in :D

Sometimes you'll find a crack so big it's not practical to fill it with super glue; that's just the "nature" of natural materials like wood.

If a block has a big nasty spot in one place in a block but it's generally pretty good, you could cut it down and use it as spacers with a contrasting material. That way it's not a total loss. I like the two-tone look, some people hate it.
 
grlangr said:
Hey guys,

I need a little advice/ just your experience and knowledge?

I reciently ordered some wood, Don't want to out any names or complain here, that wouldn't be classy:). But when it got to me I noticed something, and I just have to ask: There are a LOT of fisures(sp) in the wood. It's burl, redwood burl. And was supposedly stabilised. Now am I missunderstanding the meaning of "stabilised"? Because I paid a bit extra, GLADLY, to get it because I was planning on using it for a couple of knives that are just about back from heat treating. Looking at this stuff (I know, sorry I don't have a picture to post) there is NO way I would ever send it out on a knife that I was selling!

So question 1: what would you look for that would indicate that wood was stabilised (for future ref.) ?

#2: Would stabilised woold have cracks and internal flaws all through it or would those be filled in with whatever (acrylic/resin?) was used to stabilise it?

#3: What would You advise that I do? I got a really good price on it and probably have enough of it for 4 to 6 handles depending on size. I'm not going to just scrap it, obviously.

#4: is there a simple DIY way of filling it myself that will resolve the problem without staining/ruining the wood?

#5: I've heard of people using super glue.. Does that even work?

#6: How much wood would a wood-chuck chuck it a wood-chuck could chuck wood?!? ;)

Thanks everybody!! Your advice is always appreciated!
Click to expand...

To stabilize wood - WELL - you have to know what you are doing and usually those who know what they are doing? Do it well and with good wood.....:thumbup:

That said, you can take and spread a little minwax wood sealer on a piece of any old wood and call it stabilized? :confused:

Than there is all the rest in between? But some is good and some is not so good?

I use a lot of wood and some pieces I get, I wind up not using because of different issues with the piece? crack? pits? color? stabilized quality? looks? etc, etc....

So you get more and move on......:D:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
foxx said:
I've wondered about this myself. I got 2 knives with stabilized wood scales. The walnut crotch wood has some pits. They are so small my camera would not get them.
I've played guitar for years, owned many, and all the ones with natural finishes, or no finish on the neck/fretboards never had any pits, holes, fissures etc..
So, am I missing something?
Click to expand...

I'm sure you have handled a nice pool cue stick right? :cool:

Well a couple years ago, I picked up some wood from some guys a Blade Show, that stabilized wood for that type of product.
These guys new what they were doing, it was some of the BEST wood and stabilizing I have ever used. :cool::thumbup:
Go look at high end pool cue's? How hard the wood is? the grain? the finish?
Try and pock your finger nail into it?:D:D

You get the right stuff and hand finish it out it makes some nice knife handles. Like I said there is a difference? :thumbup:

You noobs need to go play with supper glue a bit. :D

Don't be slackers if you want to get into knife making, you gotta do your home work.......:D

Have a great day,

.
 
grlangr said:
#3: What would You advise that I do? I got a really good price on it and probably have enough of it for 4 to 6 handles depending on size. I'm not going to just scrap it, obviously.
Click to expand...

In the very near future I plan on getting a dealer membership to sell scales here. My view is simple , if you are not happy "let me know" and I will do whatever it takes to make you happy.
The guy you got it from may feel the same way ?
 
Spalted said:
In the very near future I plan on getting a dealer membership to sell scales here. My view is simple , if you are not happy "let me know" and I will do whatever it takes to make you happy.
The guy you got it from may feel the same way ?
Click to expand...

That's all you can do, like I said just decide to use the stuff or not? and than move on?


You just can not get the premium peachy? every thing is ROSES material all the time?

So you use the stuff you got that is the best and make the knife and sale it for a fair price. :)
 
Looking at your previous posts I am guessing it was some stabilized wood you purchased from ebay. There are several sellers of stabilized woods there. Some use K&G & WSSI while there others that have their own do it themselves methods.

Wood that was not well stabilized will usually have some soft areas at the interior of the piece where the solution did not penetrate.

When properly stabilized the cured solution may heal some small hairline checks and very small voids, but for the most the larger cracks and voids are still there.

The 2 easiest ways to fill them (depending on size) are with CA glue for small stuff, or epoxy mixed with sanding dust for the larger ones. Larry Shaughnessy did a good tutorial on scales. He showed with a piece of stabilized spalted maple how he did a fill using CA glue that turned out great. This should take you to the thread.
 
The thing to remember about stabilized wood is that it's still wood. I bought a custom piece from a well known maker and found a hunk of the wood had broken off near the butt after only a short time and minimal use. So, even the best and hardest of wood can crack, split or, in my case, break off. My handles were stabilized Maple burl.
 
RABII said:
The thing to remember about stabilized wood is that it's still wood. I bought a custom piece from a well known maker and found a hunk of the wood had broken off near the butt after only a short time and minimal use. So, even the best and hardest of wood can crack, split or, in my case, break off. My handles were stabilized Maple burl.
Click to expand...

That is a great post.

ANY material can get messed up on a knife. I don't care if it's gold? ivory? pearl? or wood? Sh^t happens.
You could take a nice hand polished blade and slide it into the wrong sheath and scratch the crap out of it.

Just because it is stabilized? Doesn't mean it is indestructible? :rolleyes:
 
grlangr said:
#6: How much wood would a wood-chuck chuck it a wood-chuck could chuck wood?!? ;)

Thanks everybody!!
Click to expand...

Well, no one has answered this one. I'll tackle it.

*ahem*.... A wood-chuck would chuck as much wood as a wood-chuck could chuck if a wood-chuck could chuck wood.
 
Burl Source said:
Looking at your previous posts I am guessing it was some stabilized wood you purchased from ebay. There are several sellers of stabilized woods there. Some use K&G & WSSI while there others that have their own do it themselves methods.

Wood that was not well stabilized will usually have some soft areas at the interior of the piece where the solution did not penetrate.

When properly stabilized the cured solution may heal some small hairline checks and very small voids, but for the most the larger cracks and voids are still there.

The 2 easiest ways to fill them (depending on size) are with CA glue for small stuff, or epoxy mixed with sanding dust for the larger ones. Larry Shaughnessy did a good tutorial on scales. He showed with a piece of stabilized spalted maple how he did a fill using CA glue that turned out great. This should take you to the thread.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise Burl Source (and everyone else)! FYI I didn't get it off of e-bay, haven't bought anything off of there... so I'm a bitcurious as to what would lead you to that conclusion? :) As far as the wood, there doesn't seem to be any soft spots. There where just a lot of small cracks and fisures. I have seen it before in some burls, just wasn't sure what to expect with stabilised.

Again, thanks everbody for weighing in! It's appreciated
 
First, you question whether your wood has been stabilized. I would suggest you contact the seller and ask him who and how was the wood stabilized. Also the wood especially redwood should gain quite a bit of weight and should be fairly hard. I know when I send wood out, when it comes back it has gained almost double the weight on the soft woods and where they were easy to dent before I can hardly make a mark with my fingernail. Also sand a small section it should smell like acrylic not wood.

Wood especial spalted woods, burls and highly figured woods will have flaws and cracks, just the nature of the material. Get some thin CA glue and some thin epoxy and have at it.

Stabilizing does not make cracks and other flaws go away. I have sent some beautiful redwood burl out to K&G all cut into blocks no flaws or cracks and got them back and made some scales out of some and soon as I cut the blocks I had all these cracks that opened around the burl eyes. Like Todd said SH^^ happens. All I can figure is it did not like the pressure it was under during stabilizing.
 
Todd has this right just because you paid top dollar if its organic its not going to be perfect. Stag, bone, pearl etc. are not always what they seem to be. Micarta has crud in the layers sometime and it will show up nicely in your for sale photo.
Ken.
 
Thanks guys! I def can't scratch it with my fingernail, and the cracks where all around the eyes like you described Mike! And Ken, your right! I've run into that with Micarta as well. Thanks all for your kind words and advice! I've got the CA working on it now :).

And Mark, :) all good brother! I think this wood WAS some from that post, wasn't e-bay; and I had no idea it was "deal spotting". So embarassed about that to this day, oops!
 
Forgot to mention on the CA glue do not use a kicker on it, it will turn it white. Just let it kick off on it's own and it will be clear.
 
As with all natural materials, they will respond to temperature and humidity. The whole idea in stabilizing the wood is to keep it from changing its dimensions. Any change in temperature and specially humidity will make it warp. The idea behind stabilization process is to fill all those small voids at the microscopic level so it will not absorb or put out humidity and by so sataying in one dimension.
 
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