Woodchuck alert - unfinished handles

Tohatchi NM

Tohatchi NM

Joined
Mar 26, 2002
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The Gelbu Special in this Deal thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425797 has unfinished handles. Yangdu lists it as Himalayan Shuer wood. I have a Foxy Folly with similarly unfinished handles (which I think was labeled Hill Walnut)

I did a little bit of searching, but didn't turn up much. What's the current woodchuck thinking on these handles - leave unfinished? Standard Tru-oil treatment? Why do they come unfinished in the first place?

Obviously, I'm looking for a new project to take up. Thanks for any insight!
 
I think it's because they're buffing compounds stain the wood, but I may be completely off....just a knifemaker's guess.

They don't put on oil finishes in Nepal...all handles are sanded and buffed.


Only a handful of woods don't benefit from oil penetration...so I think you can't go wrong.

Personally, I'd go with something like Tung Oil to add some amber tone to the blond wood to make it "glow". (on the shuer handle)

For the Hill Walnut...go with Tru-Oil.


my 0.02
 
Dan is right on the money (no surprise there:D ). I finish my longbows and arrow shafts with tung oil, and love the way it takes on a mellow "warmth" with age.
I wouldn't leave any light colored wood unfinished (except maybe French Boxwood, which is very hard and dense), unless you really don't mind it taking on a grimy appearance from use

Sarge.
 
I'm sure the experts are correct about imparting an amber glow with tung oil to lighter colored wood, but I prefer the simplicity of oiling my handles with the same ingredients. I've stopped using True Oil and use Watco's Danish Finishing oil instead, and I often go back with any over the counter lemon or orange oil that I have handy.



munk
 
I use Watco's Danish Oil on my handles. I like tung oil too. I wouldn't leave it unfinished. Take Dan's advice. Its always a good bet.
 
The buffing compound issue makes sense. I remember scrubbing handles three or four times with Murphys oil soap and still pulling red rouge out of the wood. The unfinished handle I have is a bit rougher than average, so I guess it didn't get the final buffing before shellacing.

I have tung oil handy, so that's what I'll probably use. Time to Walosify some handles.
 
Tohatchi NM said:
I have tung oil handy, so that's what I'll probably use. Time to Walosify some handles.
Click to expand...

To use Walosi's technique use the Tru-Oil and Armor All or ask Steve what he uses as his handles are right up there with Walosi's woodchucking.:thumbup: :cool: :D
 
I like both tung oil and Tru-Oil (which is linseed oil based). I tend to think that the tung oil is a little harder, more durable finish. But most of my handles are done with Tru-oil, out of habit. Heck, I've even used wipe on Polyurethane when I'm in a hurry for a working khuk. It's hard to go wrong with any of the oil finishes, if the wood is cleaned and sanded well. I scrub it, then sand with 220, 320, 400, 600 grit. Then put on thin coats of finish. Just a few coats for a worker, up to 25 for a show piece, wet sanding with 1000 or 1500 grit in between coats.

Steve

Steve
 
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