Woodchuck pic of WWII handle!

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Nov 15, 2000
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Here's a closeup of the grain on the Bura WWII that I got a few days ago: More to follow in this thread in a few minutes:)
 
Make a nice flag wouldn't it Wal?;) :D

Here's the Karda and Chakma. I really don't know how to scan these very well. The orinal slides are tack-sharp but When I scan at sizes small enough to fit on the forum I lose that sharpness. Any ideas?
 
The scan quality looks great to me.

The upper blade appears to be engraved with the word, "Enjoy." :)
 
Definitely Burly!
Where is the woodchuck signal when you need it? Seeing pix like these show me what I should be doing.
 
Here's the whole blade (well minus the tip, which is in the slide but I'd have to take it out of the mount to scan and that is a P.I.A.):o
 
Ok, confession time. Before anyone gets the wrong idea about my woodchuck skills (or the idea that I have them) the first pic was taken before I did any sanding and tung oil treatments. Why does it look so yummy? Because I wiped it with that orange oil stuff to show the grain better. What you see is wet-oiled wood. However, I did put 2 coats of tung oil per Wal's instructions and the handle looked darn good indeed, just not quite this shiny. Photographers will do anything to make their pics look good:o ;) :D
 
Looks like somebody got a macro lens!!!

Great fun isn't it. I've had one for years.

You might be interested in this book:
-----

"The Manual of Close-up Photography"
Lester Lefokwitz,
American Photographic Book Publishing Co, Inc.
Garden City, NY
1979

ISBN 0-817-2456-3 hardbound
ISBN 0-817-2130-0 softbound
-----

Dunno if it's still in print or in later edition.

You really can do a lot with a manual camera, a super cheap flash and a macro lens or homemade/purchased extension tube if you're willing to learn how to do a few calculations. Especially if you can "push" the film and get it properly developed. Fancier stuff jsut makes it easier. Tripod or similar device is essential, as I'm sure you know.

I can dig up a second book if you're interested.

On sharpness, the only thing I can suggest is scan at max resolution and crop as much as possible so that the maximum number of pixels carry relevant information. It will be a long time and lots of $$ before digital stuff can approach the sharpness possible with properly handled film.
 
Was that a special order from Bura or was it one Uncle had already ? Whats the "enjoy" engraving for ? Have you used it yet cos its still very shiny, if you have how do you remove those little scrapes, and marks you get on the blade after chopping ?

Regards,
Brendan
 
Thanks Firkin:) Yep I just got a Nikkor 105mm micro and these are the first pics I took with it. I'll check that book out, thanks:)

Was that a special order from Bura or was it one Uncle had already ? Whats the "enjoy" engraving for ? Have you used it yet cos its still very shiny, if you have how do you remove those little scrapes, and marks you get on the blade after chopping ?

This WWII was a PGA that I snagged for my neighbor (who was VERY happy with it BTW!:)). The "enjoy" was put in by me in photoshop, Just to be weird :D
 
How do you keep your blades so shiny ?

Both of these are unused (and brand new) blades. But all I ever do to mine is use a polish called Flitz (or FlitzChrome, can't remember which) to take the tree sap stains off. The scratching is inevitable IMO because the majority of the blade surface is so soft (away from the sweet spot). Some guys on here have access to polishing wheels which I believe will get your blade back to mirror polish. I used to care about scratches, but don't anymore. Its too much work to keep polishing my users, but I do like them to be shiny to show off once in awhile:D

The PGA just means "Pala's Give aways" which is what Uncle bill calls the khuks he's been selling (per Pala's instructions--owner of HI in Nepal. Pala means either Dad, or father in law IIRC) at reduced prices due to HI's need for fast cash for Maoist inspired relocation.
 
Maui,

I've got a 55 mm macro which is usually use with a 2x teleconverter which ammounts to the same thing.

One of my greater dissapointments was when a Olympus 80 mm macro with matching auto, adustable extension tube (sorta tough field bellows) got some fungus or something growing on inside elements eating the multicoating. Looks like nearly invisible rootlets. Parts no longer available, so nobody will work on it and remaining examples cost 7-8 times the bargain price I bought it for new.:(

With Nikon you'll probably not have availabilty problems. So sad that stuff for my trusty tank-like Olympus OM-1 is now hard to find.

Don't keep your lenses in the cases, seal them in tupperware with dessicant. The dammage occurred when I lived in humid Georgia.

Another book:
------

"Field Photography, Beginning and Advanced Techniques"
Alfred A. Blaker
W.H. Freeman and Company, San Francisco
1976
ISBN 0-7167-0518-4
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All kinds of do-it-yourself tricks and gizmos that will make macro (and telephoto) easier. Easy to understand calculations and a handy booklet of tables. Adequate light is key for macro, especially since you want to use the finest grain film (slowest)for resolution and smallest F-stop possible (for depth of field). This one emphasizes lightweight, portable stuff and making best use of what you've got.

Both of these books tell you how to do it without buying lots of expensive stuff. Like how to couple a pair of lenses to get really high magnifications. I particularly recommend this one if you like building stuff.
 
I wish I had a decent camera.

Well, look on the bright side Uncle Bill. If your pics were any better the PGA's would realy fly, and then you'd never get a break!!;) :D
 
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