I want to make a wooden scabbard for my bowie. The basic idea (cut a wooden "negative", add two wooden planks to sides and finish with sandpaper) seems to be quite simple, but how to fix the knife inside so it doesn't rattle in the scabbard? Any advice?
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Wooden bowie scabbard?
- Thread starter alberich
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my uncle does them all the time he impregnates them with beeswax to keep them from rusting and engraves the fronts of em they look pretty cool.
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My solution is to simply not make it this way.
I take the two wooden planks and carve out hollows on the sides so the blade fits perfectly in all dimensions. You could still line it with something if you wanted to, but I also prefer this way because you can make the lines of the scabbard more closely match the outline of the blade, and really cut down on bulk. This scabbard is thinner than the handle.
Thanks for all the advices!
Lovely blade and great looking scabbard. But it surely need some skill to make it this way! I'm far from being a skilled carpenter, but I might try - what wood do you use?
the possum said:My solution is to simply not make it this way.
I take the two wooden planks and carve out hollows on the sides so the blade fits perfectly in all dimensions. You could still line it with something if you wanted to, but I also prefer this way because you can make the lines of the scabbard more closely match the outline of the blade, and really cut down on bulk. This scabbard is thinner than the handle.
Lovely blade and great looking scabbard. But it surely need some skill to make it this way! I'm far from being a skilled carpenter, but I might try - what wood do you use?
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Awesome knife & scabbard there P :thumbup:
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Thanks for the compliments, fellas.
I suppose this way might take more time or skill, but it's not as bad as it sounds. If you have a chisel with a wide, flat edge, it would help. I did a lot of the carving with the spey blade on a stockman pocketknife. You could also make some small sanding blocks to smooth out the carving on the inside surfaces.
Just trace the outline of the blade on one of the boards, and start carving. Go slowly and keep checking how the blade fits so you can see where you need to carve away more wood. It may help if you rub the blade with a thin coating of chalk dust, or oil (don't use too much oil though! you don't want it soaking deep into the wood). This way, when you press the blade against the wood, it will leave a mark on all the high spots, showing you where you need to carve more. You could use all kinds of different things to do this, and in fact you could do without if you press hard enough.
I prefer to carve a "shelf" on one of the halves for the edge. If you make the seam directly in line with the edge, you'll have a greater chance of splitting. Once you have both halves carved to fit the blade, then carve the outside so both pieces have the same profile. Then you can glue them together, and wrap it tightly with thin rope or twine to hold them in place until the glue dries. (this works much better than clamps)
The scabbard in my picture was never really finished, since this is my "beater" knife. It needs a metal throat to reinforce the wood and keep it from splitting at the mouth. (I've had to repair it several times already) A metal tip would not only help hold it together, but also protect the wood from damage, since this area is most likely to get banged around.
I really don't know what kind of wood is "best" for this. I used walnut since it's fairly strong and pretty, and since we've had over a ton of it in our wood shed for 35 years. Whatever wood you use, it should be very resistant to splitting.
I suppose this way might take more time or skill, but it's not as bad as it sounds. If you have a chisel with a wide, flat edge, it would help. I did a lot of the carving with the spey blade on a stockman pocketknife. You could also make some small sanding blocks to smooth out the carving on the inside surfaces.
Just trace the outline of the blade on one of the boards, and start carving. Go slowly and keep checking how the blade fits so you can see where you need to carve away more wood. It may help if you rub the blade with a thin coating of chalk dust, or oil (don't use too much oil though! you don't want it soaking deep into the wood). This way, when you press the blade against the wood, it will leave a mark on all the high spots, showing you where you need to carve more. You could use all kinds of different things to do this, and in fact you could do without if you press hard enough.
I prefer to carve a "shelf" on one of the halves for the edge. If you make the seam directly in line with the edge, you'll have a greater chance of splitting. Once you have both halves carved to fit the blade, then carve the outside so both pieces have the same profile. Then you can glue them together, and wrap it tightly with thin rope or twine to hold them in place until the glue dries. (this works much better than clamps)
The scabbard in my picture was never really finished, since this is my "beater" knife. It needs a metal throat to reinforce the wood and keep it from splitting at the mouth. (I've had to repair it several times already) A metal tip would not only help hold it together, but also protect the wood from damage, since this area is most likely to get banged around.
I really don't know what kind of wood is "best" for this. I used walnut since it's fairly strong and pretty, and since we've had over a ton of it in our wood shed for 35 years. Whatever wood you use, it should be very resistant to splitting.
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Ya know, I just had another idea.
You could still use your idea and cut a "negative" with two flat boards. Just carve the negative so it's thinner at the edge. It should taper from spine to edge so it matches the taper of the blade grinds.
If your knife has a pronounced false edge grind on the spine (as mine does), you may not be able to carve the spine of the scabbard to match it, but this might not be a big deal to you. (It is to me, since my blade is so long. It cuts down on more of that bulk.)
I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner.
You could still use your idea and cut a "negative" with two flat boards. Just carve the negative so it's thinner at the edge. It should taper from spine to edge so it matches the taper of the blade grinds.
If your knife has a pronounced false edge grind on the spine (as mine does), you may not be able to carve the spine of the scabbard to match it, but this might not be a big deal to you. (It is to me, since my blade is so long. It cuts down on more of that bulk.)
I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner.
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- Feb 13, 2004
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Quote "this is my "beater" knife"
Very nice beater bro
Just how long is the blade on that bad boy?
Very nice beater bro
Just how long is the blade on that bad boy?
:thumbup: 
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Leatherbird- I'm lovin' that new avatar.It's got an 18" blade (Or at least it did when new- I've sharpened over 1/4" of steel from the last third of the edge.) and 6" handle. 24" overall; about 28 ounces. It's balanced for speed and an optimal striking point at the tip. Blade is 5160 turned to bainite by Joe Wolters, at about 57 Rc.
It maneuvers faster than a machete and outchops my 32 oz khukri.
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
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Hi y'all,
I'm studying Bladesmithing and working on a knife that combines the traditional look of a KABAR and a Tanto with a double edge. I am deciding the design for the scabbard, but I definitely want to make it out of wood. Unfortunately, I can't see any pictures on this thread and other threads I've viewed. Any ideas what I'm missing?
I'm a visual learner, so it's important to see what I'm learning about.
Thanks
-Red's Edge
I'm studying Bladesmithing and working on a knife that combines the traditional look of a KABAR and a Tanto with a double edge. I am deciding the design for the scabbard, but I definitely want to make it out of wood. Unfortunately, I can't see any pictures on this thread and other threads I've viewed. Any ideas what I'm missing?
I'm a visual learner, so it's important to see what I'm learning about.
Thanks
-Red's Edge
Cougar Allen
Buccaneer (ret.)
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- Oct 9, 1998
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- 76,151
Welcome to Bladeforums! This is an old thread from 2006, back before the sheath forum was created, and the pictures are long gone. Go to Sheaths & Such for more current information.