Wooden handle treatment and care?

tknife

tknife

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Mar 18, 1999
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I have a few knives with wooden scales which are things like osage and mesquite that seem to have not needed any maintenance. But I recently got an expensive knife that will be a user, but it has maple scales and I want to keep them in tip top shape. The knife was also made in the UK, spent some years in Arizona and now is in hot and dry southern California. The scales have shrunken away a tiny bit from the tang and are in need of some moisture.

I know I can soak it in Danish oil, boiled linseed oil, and have also seen mineral oil mentioned. The scales are very light in color, so I'd like an option that won't darken them too much. I also need to make sure it doesn't stay oily or slippery as I will be using it. I have been searching quite a bit and am overwhelmed by the options. This is why I like Micarta! But any help will be appreciated.
 
I like Boos mystery oil. It's not really a mystery; it's just orange oil, carnauba, and mineral oil. :D All the oils you mentioned are just fine, too. I don't slather it on, but just work it in in light coats with the fingertips, a few drops at a time. I let the wood drink as much as it likes. When it stops drinking, I wipe it down well and let it breathe and absorb overnight. Wipe down the next morning.

Is your handle finished in any way? This is especially important for completely unfinished woods (like on the Robert Herder knives). I have seen Herder knives and Opinels with unfinished handles that were cracked and coming apart due to getting wet and drying over and over again from washing in an untreated state.
 
Thanks for your suggestions. The mystery oil sounds especially nice and I imagine its smells good as well!
 
If using Danish oil, the manufacturers of the stuff I used (Watco Danish Oil) strongly recommend a LIGHT application, in perhaps 2-3 separate coats. I've read that Danish oil can be very gummy & soft if it's applied too heavily. I'd avoid actually soaking it in this stuff. Danish oil is simply a blend of linseed oil (I assume boiled), varnish and thinner. The thinner is what helps it soak in, and the varnish & linseed oil will essentially seal up the wood.

When I used it to seal the walnut handle on my Opinel (pics below), I just moistened a folded paper towel with it, and wiped the wood just enough to leave a wet-looking (shiny) film on it. I then waited about 15-20 minutes for it to dry to the touch (I'm in the very arid desert southwest), and then did the same thing in a 2nd coat. Per the instructions on the can, I then waited 3-4 days for that to cure fully, then applied a 3rd light coat in the same manner. When the wood is dry, this stuff will soak in very quickly in the first coat or two; you'll notice it takes a bit longer to dry & cure on the 3rd application.


David
 
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Nice finish on your Opinel. That is about how light my scales are, so that is good to know that they didn't darken too much.
 
tknife said:
Nice finish on your Opinel. That is about how light my scales are, so that is good to know that they didn't darken too much.
Click to expand...

Thanks, and you've reminded me, the Danish Oil I used was the 'Natural' finish variety (clear). Didn't seem to alter the color at all, but it does a nice job bringing out the grain/figuring in the wood. I shaped & prepped the handle by sanding with wet/dry sandpaper, up to maybe 1000-1500 grit (probably overkill, as the finish didn't seem to change appreciably above maybe 600-800 grit).

Watco also has other versions of the Danish Oil which include stain/color, depending on preference.


David
 
Keep in mind that moisture can also seep in from the backside of the scales if they are not sealed as well. Just finishing the top surface and sides won't give you complete protection, especially if the scales aren't glued to a liner.

If you want something that it more weather resistant, you might look at one of the polymerized oil blends. These go on in multiple thin coats and cure hard and waterproof. Probably the most popular product in this category with knife knuts is Tru-Oil.

TedP
 
Apparently, the 'polymerized' oils include linseed oil, or linseed oil blends as well. I'd assume that includes the Danish Oil blends.

(from site -->: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil )

"(...) Linseed oil is a drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. Due to its polymer-forming properties, linseed oil is used on its own or blended with other oils, resins, and solvents as an impregnator and varnish in wood finishing, as a pigment binder in oil paints, as a plasticizer and hardener in putty, and in the manufacture of linoleum. (...)"
Click to expand...


David
 
I wound up picking up some food grade mineral oil (used as a laxative?! Yikes!) because it was the most convenient to get. After speaking with a knifemaker on this, I left the handle soaking for just a few minutes, then spent a few minutes rubbing it into the scales, then let it sit for a while before wiping off the excess. He suggested doing this for the next few days and then once a month or so going forward.

The oil definitely made the scales feel less dry to the touch, and the wood has a nice glow to it. I plan on getting a few other types of oils mentioned in this thread to test out. I have several Old Hickory kitchen knives with very dry handles too.
 
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