wooden wedge popping out

cooperhill

cooperhill

Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
1,018
This is one of my flint edge CTs. I saved and reused the handle off of a Collins Legitimus (thus the funky shape to the wedge - from drilling out the old wedge). So it looks like the one wedge split into two as I was hammering it and one side is popping out. Suggestions on what I should do (drill out and start over, hammer the wedge back in; suggestions on what would cause this (kerf not deep enough, wedge not wide enough, etc.). The axe doesn't appear to have come unhung (or maybe this is considering being unhung).

thanks. always appreciate the advice as I feel like I've still got a lot to learn.

 
I've got a few that do that from time to time. I just tap it back in place. Well, tap might be too soft a word for it. Either way, for all except my throwers, I find that if I reseat it, it'll stay a good long time before it works its way back out.

out of curiosity, how long ago did you put that head on that handle? I find that on ones that are really oiled up, I need to let them sit for a few days to a couple of weeks before using them so that doesn't happen.


-ben
 
Make a wide flat punch out of a scrap of hard wood and drive that sucker home again. Then hit it with some DPG.
 
Square_peg said:
Make a wide flat punch out of a scrap of hard wood and drive that sucker home again. Then hit it with some DPG.
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Thanks. I was told on the other site that I should scrap the whole handle and start over. It's a perfectly good handle.
 
Maybe you didn't set the wedge deep enough - those have a tendency to pop out - so if u didn't drive it deep enough u might have to re do it. If it is just popping out from good s hard use - u very cold do as already mentioned and reset it home. Might hold for a good long time.
 
After rehanging an axe I'll flip it upside down, set the wedge on a hard surface (I've got terrazzo in my studio/workshop) and pounding on the knob end of the handle. Kinda like seating the head on but with the wedge on the floor. Seems to drive it a little bit further than just pounding directly on the wedge. Like BJP, I also leave 'em sit a couple days after applying linseed to the end grain in the eye.

If it keeps coming loose, pry it out with a screwdriver, or pull it out with a vice-grips, and reset a new wedge. No need to scrap the handle. Good handles are hard enough to find!

I've been experimenting to see if the width of the kerf slot has anything to do with how well a handle will hold an wedge. Nothing conclusive yet. Who knows, might have nothing to do with anything.
 
nickzdon said:
I've been experimenting to see if the width of the kerf slot has anything to do with how well a handle will hold an wedge. Nothing conclusive yet. Who knows, might have nothing to do with anything.
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I'll be interested in what you find. I don't feel good about real tight kerfs and wedges that don't go in very far. I have no data to justify my worry about this but I just don't like it in my gut. I'll re-cut a kerf that I think is too tight.
 
Square_peg said:
I'll be interested in what you find. I don't feel good about real tight kerfs and wedges that don't go in very far. I have no data to justify my worry about this but I just don't like it in my gut. I'll re-cut a kerf that I think is too tight.
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I would agree with this - have to be able to get that wedge in there - if not it will pop out, usually sooner rather than later.
 
Somehow i didnt notice it was Coop that started this thread (DUH), so I know the wedge was set deep and correctly, so erase my previous comments, I know you did it right to start with.

What kind of wedge was it? A softwood that would be more susceptible to molding, shaping, etc, and maybe more prone to popping out?

I changed to hickory wedges only about 6 months ago - no issues vs poplar or other junk wood wedges. I think you use hardwood wedges though if I remember right....
 
It was softwood if I remember correctly.

The plan is to knock it back in and add some swel-lock. I will be using it for axe training again next week so it will get another test. If it pops out again, I plan to remove the wedge and re-do a few things.
 
Do you have luck with the Swell lock? I have never had luck, and if I get to that point where I need to add something I use super glue, which has failed to let me down yet. Thoughts on that? Some guys don't like it - but seems to work great for me.
 
I used to set all my wedges with construction adhesive. That worked well. Fills all the little voids and keeps it all together. Lately it's been just Swel-Lock. It's less messy and invisible. Super glue seems a reasonable substitute.
 
I also have much better luck with ample sized wedges. On one piece where the wedge kept wanting to pop up, I took a screw driver and pounded it in across the wedge in 3 places. I then took some hickory shims and drove them into the slots from the screwdriver. It did the trick. I did not put any cracks into the handle with the screwdriver, just in the wedge. I hope that makes sense.
 
I have had good luck shaping my wedges like the image on the right rather than the left. The lower angle is less prone to slipping out, makes a tighter fit throughout the length of the eye, and holds together better when being driven in.

wedges.jpg
 
bearhunter said:
Hey MEMPHIS... How the hell are ya :cool:

I would prolly just replace the handle too :D :p
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What up, Brother Bear!? I'm good. Just as ornery as ever, ask my wife. You?

Chris, I hope you'll update us with your method and results!
 
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