Woodworkers - Finishing Bubinga?

Joined
May 6, 2016
Messages
957
I know some of the dense oily woods on Khuk handles do really well with a high-grit sandpapering.

Is high-grit sandpapering and boiled linseed oil the right treatment for bubinga?

Or sandpaper and then some kind of clear lacquer? I know all these fancy woods are different.
 
I've used linseed on Bubinga many times.

I generally prefer linseed or Tung over lacquer. If the wood gets dinged or damaged you can steam it out or repair it and just add oil and it will generally match well.

With lacquer, or linspeed or some of those finishes it may or may not work and you have to sand and refinish the whole deal.

Some of the oily woods, lacquer doesn't do well, doesn't adhere properly. Bubinga, at least the stuff I've used wasn't especially oily.
 
I know some of the dense oily woods on Khuk handles do really well with a high-grit sandpapering.

Is high-grit sandpapering and boiled linseed oil the right treatment for bubinga?

Or sandpaper and then some kind of clear lacquer? I know all these fancy woods are different.

Bubinga takes an amazing high polish even before applying any kind of finish.

I once made a mirror out of bubinga. Sanded it with increasing grits of sandpaper up to 2000 grit. Then polished with rottenstone powder, which probably goes up to 8,000 grit or higher. Finished with several thin coats of tung oil over a two week period, rubbing heavily between coats (which causes the layers to melt together).

The end result was a wooden mirror that you could see your face in very clearly in good lighting.

I've done that with other woods on khukuri handles (never had a knife with a bubinga handle). Some people think that this level of polishing makes the handle too slick for a good grip, but I've not found that to be the case. It's the shape of the handle, rather than roughness, that makes for a secure grip, in my opinion. Of course if you put this much work into a fine wood handle, the knife is not likely to be a user.
 
Forget the lacquer unless you are making a trophy piece. If you want a user TUNG oil or BLO are better treatments and both posts above describe good process. Even if you intend NOT to really use the knife the bubinga will polish up nicely with thin coats of oil built up, sanding between coats. Me doing this I typically apply a few coats of oil buff with 0000 still wool and apply one more thin coat of oil. Sand the handle and add another coat of oil once or twice each year just to clean it up. Have yet to finish a handle like furniture. That's just me. Of course I have not owned one of these high polished khuks. That could give me an different motivation. :thumbup:


Ray
 
The victim: It's pretty but I bet I could make it better. And yes, I did find the largest picture I could.
rnxdtTY.jpg


You all got me very, very excited.
What is the first/coarsest grit you would use to take the finish off if there is one, or just smooth it to add a coat of BLO.

I'll do the sand, rub, sand, rub method and get as fine a grit as I can beg, borrow , steal - or get for $5 at the auto parts store.

I'll have to see if I can rot some stones right quick.

It's a 'fancy pants' pocket knife so the prettier it is the better and the
less it scares the hoplophobes. It's perfect for when the 14" Kumar Kobra scares the nice ladies in your office.
 
Last edited:
So any retired woodworker want a winter weekend project? Work on this one (hint) or get your own: they make oak, beech, bubinga, walnut, birch and olive wood.. (and some fancy multi-wood ones...) Pretty cool for about $20.
 
I'd probably start no coarser than 220 or 320. Just to get whatever is on there out of the way. I usually see no need to go much beyond 400 myself.

After than oil and steel wool usually bring the shine. Depends on the wood, even the same variety can vary.

That's a very easy handle to work on, I'd painter tape off the metal so you don't scratch that.
Make yourself a small block with some thin felt on it to back your sandpaper. No place you'd need a dowel or anything for radius's.

It's hard to tell but the picture almost looks like an oil finish so you might be able to just polish it out and add more oil. If you have a buffer, you might even try that at first to see what happens.

Should be a fun project. If I can find 20 bucks I might get one too. Heard of them before.
 
Just don't lose a fiinger with a buffer. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way. Stuck it on with super glue, still numb.
 
Yeah I respect and fear the buffer! Ask me how difficult it is to polish a sterling silver necklace on a soft wheel! Argh.
It'll catch and throw anything. You won't find me near 'the beast' with any knives.

Good surprise coming for all the forumites, it looks like the little Opinel that could is going to get the Spa treatment.
 
My first question is what do you hope to gain? Smoother? Shinier? Unless you are willing to build up 12 or more coats of shellac or lacquer with sanding in between you won't get much better than what you already have.

For a working knife that will be used outside the oil finishes (BLO or TUNG) are excellent because they are easily repaired or touched up and serve the purpose of protecting the wood well.

For a nice pocket knife - such as the Opinel - which will be used primarily as a indoor hand knife - not run through the dishwasher or left stuck in the butt of a log for easy reach near the fire all week while you are camping - shellac or lacquers or some varnishes will build up best for optimum show case finish (though the oil finishes are still pretty darn good enough).

Oil finishes seal the pores of the wood so that moisture or other contaminants won't penetrate the wood - the pores are filled up. Sanding between coats and apply more beyond 2 or 3 coats (depending on the porosity of the wood) accomplishes little other than making the wood surface smoother. To some extent you might also be filling the pores of open pore species with a slurry of dusty oil. If you don't wipe clean between coats and create this slurry effect you are compromising the color glow of the wood. BLO and Tung have no shininess they are satin finishes at best. They both dry pretty slowly - even thin coats need hours in a heated room to dry properly. Each time you sand you are simply taking off the last coat, filling in the pores and making a smoother surface for the next coat of oil.

In the case of the OPINEL - unless you know from the manufacturer what kind of finish it has - you are best to take it all off. I would not hesitate to go as coarse as 120 and then work up to no less than 220 BEFORE you start applying any kind of finish. Each subsequent coat can be sanded 320 to 600 grit but no reason to go beyond that with the oils.

If you would like to achieve a near mirror finish - spray lacquer or pad lacquer or shellac are your best finishes. Varnishes are good too but use interior varnish not "spar" varnish - they are formulated differently and the exterior grades are softer. These choices are not penetrating/pore filling finishes like oil but rather are evaporative, build up finishes that sit on the wood. Each of these can be built up 10/12/15 coats to become perfectly smooth and CLEAR to reveal and enhance the color of the wood far below the built up finish. 3 or 4 coats of brushed on varnish is equivalent to 12 or 16 coats of hand rubbed lacquer or shellac.

French polishing with built up very thin layers of shellac is the classic process for developing pristine clear shine wood finish. These finishes are only as good as the layer below. Each layer must be sanded (and cleaned after) to perfection before applying the next coat WITHOUT sanding through the layer below. This becomes easier as you build up 3 or 4 layers and you can tell if the finish is level if the surface is uniformly dull. Shiny spots tell you that you still have low spots that need filling. Each layer can be sanded with finer and finer grits up to polishing compounds such as pumice or rottenstone or more contemporary products.

ANYWAY - I am going on wayyyyyy to long.:rolleyes: Read more of any of these by doing the google.

Back to my 1st question - WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO GAIN? Unless your knives are sitting in a lighted display case I vote - just give them some oil or a few coats of varnish. Use them and have fun.

I am sincerely yours, the not very opinionated, Ray :D
 
I agree for the most part. The downfall of starting with 120 is this knife is already finished. The wood pretty much is flush with the hardware. Don't want to remove anymore actual wood than absolutely necessary.

In person there might be enough proud wood to start with 120 but if it's pretty flush fine sand paper or in some cases a stripper is the ticket.

I do agree the knife looks great as is and a bit of sanding and oiling can only make it even better, but not a huge difference.

Your boat building history is showing through. Spar varnish I sometimes use on gun grips but still prefer plain old linseed or occasionally Tung oil. My dad was a huge fan of Varathane. He liked everything shiny and glossy. I did too for awhile but then gained a preference for satin less glossy finishes.
 
Reading these detailed descriptions of wood refinishing makes me drool. I'm not sure if that means I'm absolutely nuts or just reading the perfect forum!
 
You dont need to stop at some grit like 400, 600, 1000, etc. Go until you dont see or feel or care about any difference. There are great advantages to glassy smooth finishes for those that know how to take advantage of it. My eyes and grip are good to at least 2000-4000! If you dont want that then dont do it. If you do then keep going and you will see colors others dont or have never seen or know how to take advantage of! With HI wood i agree with Bawanna. I start with about 180-220 or so and keep going. In my opinion there is no such thing as too shiny or too slippery.
My experience is that a shiny slick handle with moist hand is the ultimate in traction for my purpose.

...Some people think that this level of polishing makes the handle too slick for a good grip, but I've not found that to be the case. It's the shape of the handle, rather than roughness, that makes for a secure grip, in my opinion. ....
I have to agree!
 
Last edited:
You dont need to stop at some grit like 400, 600, 1000, etc. Go until you dont see or feel or care about any difference. There are great advantages to glassy smooth finishes for those that know how to take advantage of it. My eyes and grip are good to at least 2000-4000! If you dont want that then dont do it. If you do then keep going and you will see colors others dont or have never seen or know how to take advantage of! With HI wood i agree with Bawanna. I start with about 180-220 or so and keep going. In my opinion there is no such thing as too shiny or too slippery.
My experience is that a shiny slick handle with moist hand is the ultimate in traction for my purpose.


I have to agree!

Spot on and well said.
 
Much of what I said about wood polishing applies mainly to small pieces, as opposed to large furniture where the amount of work would be prohibitive. I have seen and sometimes acquired objects and animals carved in exotic woods that could be greatly enhanced by extreme polishing. It's just too time-consuming for the original artists to do, since they have to produce enough pieces to make a living.

I have also seen highly polished dressers and chests of drawers that were extremely beautiful, but they cost a small fortune. Like several thousand dollars for one piece of furniture, and these are usually made in specialty workshops.

As for the idea of achieving a high polish by applying many layers of varnish, lacquer or other finishing compound, all I can say is that the underlying wood has to be highly polished first. Otherwise you're getting a lot of light reflected from the varnish, but you are not seeing deep into the wood. There's just no comparison.

For an example, below are photos of a hippo carved from a very dense African hardwood with an incredibly complex and beautiful grain. When I bought this piece it had what most people would consider an adequate finish and was covered in a thick coat of varnish. I could barely see the underlying grain, but what I did see encouraged me to sand off the varnish -- a lot of work because of all the curves and crevices in the carving. I went through the laborious process of sanding the entire piece with increasingly finer sandpaper, up to 2000 grit. I worked on this thing on and off in spare time for weeks, often while watching television. After the sandpaper came rottenstone powder. By this point I had discovered a whole new grain pattern, like little spiderweb patterns in between the regular grain lines.

I also discovered how brilliant the African carvers were, because the curved grain followed the curves of the hippo from every angle: front, back, top, bottom and sides -- as you can see in the pictures below.

I finished the piece by rubbing in five very thin layers of tung oil compound, each layer a day or two apart, then continued rubbing for a week or so. The details in this wood are incredible, more than you can even see in the pictures, and the best of it would have been invisible if I had not gone through the polishing process. Eventually I mounted the hippo on a matching base of bubinga, which i polished the same way, except that it was much faster to do the flat, rectangular base. The piece is about 15" long and very heavy.

These are the best pictures I could take, but they still don't show all the grain detail:

010-Hippo-Enhanced.jpg 011-Hippo-Enhanced.jpg 014-Hippo-Enhanced.jpg 015-Hippo-Enhanced.jpg 017-Hippo-Enhanced.jpg
 
Last edited:
Very cool Hippo David and excellent work on highlighting the grain. You made art! Your emphasis on the perfect finish below the finish is exactly right. No layers of finish will repair what is under - EXCEPT PAINT - and even then a poor prep leads to poor results.

Qualifier - paint (opaque finish) is not a cover up either. Painting drywall is one purpose but for fine woodwork or other mediums, prepping for paint or opaque lacquers requires care. If you don't sand smooth and prime your spot patches of filler they will telegraph through the finish. if you create a divot - that will show too. Look at car or boat finishes. Those are meticulous only because the prep work was meticulous.

Perfection is as perfection does. But a knife handle is a knife handle :rolleyes:



Ray
 
Last edited:
That hippo is outstanding. Great work.

Why not ornament a knife handle? Elevating an object from the commonplace to the spectacular is the pursuit of the artistic craftsmen, no?

FODeimosTigerEye5.jpg
 
Back
Top