Woodworking advice: Staining and finishing wood handles

D

David Poston

Joined
Jan 6, 2002
Messages
22
All:

Wow, it's been 8 months or so since I've visited this forum.

This question doesn't relate to khukuris per se, but I know there are guys on here who are woodworking experts, so I'll shoot. I'm trying to stain and finish some wood grips on my bladed tools (e.g. machetes, axe handles, etc.). There is no stain or sealer on them at the moment. Just bare wood. I was thinking of applying a MinWax stain such as red mahogany and then a coat of polyurethane. Good idea or bad idea? I want a product that looks nice, doesn't require a whole lot of work, and is something you can get a good grip on. The last thing I want is my machete flying out of my hand and into my shin.

Thanks in advance for your help.

David
 
For working blades, what has worked for me the best, after a bunch of trial & error, has been to forego the stain, not sand the scales or handles with very fine grit - leave them slightly rough, but no splinters, & then rub several coats of a hard wax like Butcher's Wax (from Highland Hardware in Georgia; don't know the web address), & let it go at that. Depending on wood porosity, you may have to put 2, 3, or 4 coats of wax on. If you really want some type of stain, I have used Kiwi Shoe Wax in the little flat cans, then applied the wax coatings.
 
Hi my name is DaQo'tah

I made a Meq'Leth last year and when I made the handle for it I decided to use a all-in-one stain/Polyurethane.

It looks very cool, I went with about 3 or 4 coats.

The trouble is, that when I took it outside to do a bit of tree triming in my woods, my hand sweat made the handle way to hard to hang ont to.

After about 30 min I knew I would have to add a tie roap or something to the handle on my next design...

here is the photos of my Meq'Leth being made...

http://daqotahforge.tripod.com/klingonblades/id96.html
 
David -
One of the best "working" finishes for tools is plain boiled linseed oil. Warm it, wipe it on with a rag, let it dry, wipe it down again and repeat. Stain is optional - if you want another color, do it. At the end of the season, give them another treatment and hang them for the winter. I have rakes and shovels that were treated with this, that are over 30 yeas old, and have spent their winters hanging in garages from Minnesota to Kentucky, and many other places. Others, left untreated, were good if they lasted five years. The finish is always slightly tacky to your grip, even when dry and hardened.
 
Anyone know anything about:

Butcher's Wax
aka
Bowling Alley Wax

"The versatile clear paste wax, developed in 1880,
also polishes, preserves, and beautifies
floors, furniture, leather—and bowling alleys,"

Sounds durable.

Just came across a reference while browsing the web.
 
I'd stay with wax. Either use paste wax of your choice (if in doubt, use renaissance wax for precious items) or use moderate heat to let beeswax soak well into the wood.

BLO may be better with a heavy duty blade which is supposed to get in contact with water/mud for prolonged periods though. However, BLO treated handles can cause blisters so better use it sparingly and apply a final wax coating.

Best wishes,
kai "back again after a long absence" :D
 
Originally posted by DKP
Fhard wax like Butcher's Wax (from Highland Hardware in Georgia; don't know the web address)
Click to expand...
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/search.asp?7=wax
Here is the web address and the search page for "wax"...
But no Butcher's wax?

Edit:
This from Highland..."Indeed, we carry it - item no. 8307298, 1 lb Butcher's Clear Paste Wax, sells for $ 7.99. If you need to order something else online, you can just add this in the remarks field and we will add it to your order when we download it.
Alternatively you can call us at 800-241-6748 and place your order over the phone.

Thanks for the contact!
Alexandra"
 
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