Work Bench Top

SVanderkolff

SVanderkolff

Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
979
What is the best surface for a workbench? I have 2 workbenches that I use all the time for my small work and leather work. Both are 2' by 8'. Currently one is plywood and the other is coated press board. Neither one is working real well. The plywood absorbes everything I spill on it and the press board shows every mark and cut. I was thinking of either a stainless steel top or a bright white whatever you call the stuff that goes on counter tops. What do you suggest?
Thanks
Steve
 
I use a wood top that is 2 x 4 bolted together, but I use a butcher paper roll to keep it covered. When dirty cut off and roll out more.
 
I use a plywood topped workbench, but I coated it with several layers of polyurethane to ensure it wouldn't absorb spills. Depending on the project, I also put down paper to catch any excess dirt or stain.

Matt
 
My jewelry bench is topped with 2x8s, sanded and sealed with a couple of coats of polyurethane. It's been taking a beating since 1993.


Doc
 
Formica works very well.
We had left over floor vinyl from my shop addition, so we covered the new benches with it. These benches will not see any heavy duty work, but should be easy to clean.
 
My Craftsman table is along the lines of a particle board covered with formica. It has been very durable so far.

I also a maple topped work table that is holding up pretty good.

Why not a full precision granite top? :D Just use a cutting board when you need to cut something. ;) Sheesh, I'd hate to install that thing....forklift anyone? As a serious note, a precision flat granite plate is a great idea in any shop.

--nathan
 
3/4 inch plywood. if you are worried about it getting dirty or stained, you probably have chosen the wrong hobby.:D
 
if you check Craigslist for your area you may find surplus or remannt countertoops there. look under materilas and also under furniture perhaps.

my workbenches in the garage were bolt together benches from Hime Depot with decent steel bases and reasonably decent plywwod tops that have a coat of varnish or sealer on them. much better than most tops which are just unfinished particle board.

my desk is a recycled slab of maple butcherblock countertop from someone who was remodeling their kitchen. it's 3' x 7' and would have been over $1,000 if i ordered it new online... and probably several hundred more for shipping. i got it used for $300 and ordered some desk height legs from an online leg vendor for about $100... they also listed workbench/countertop (taller) and dining/meeting table (shorter) height legs as well as other heights suitable for coffee tables, end tables, etc. i had to scrape and sand some glue off the bottom, but i ended up with a very nice desk and light duty workbench for a very reasonable price. (obviously that's my subjective opinion, but i'm a cheap bastard who wanted something nice)

i've also seen "scrap" countertops left over from projects in various materials. formica, corian, marble, occasionally stainless.

before i moved to the new house i had two 4x8 sheets of plywood 1.125" subflooring that had some glue on them that i was planing on removing and sealing them and turning them into workbenches... just never got around to that and it wasn't really worth moving them.
 
The benches in my new shop will be 1" plywood with a 14 gauge stainless steel top plates. The stainless tops will be bent to form a back splash and a front lip.
The current tops are 3/4"plywood, and are burned, gouged, and beat to heck.
 
I have a white formica toped solid core door. It's easy to see things on it. It is warm and quiet, but not totally stain resistant (it has patina). Thats my assemble general work bench. 4' X4' Steel table for welding and other heavy work.

I would like stainless for a counter with sink installed. Maybe some day.
 
Current benchtop is a solid core wood 2 hour rated fire door with a piece of 1/2" HDO(high density overlay) form ply glued and screwed on top. Makes for a very solid top - the HDO is very easy to clean and does a good job of resisting dents and stains. I finished it with a couple of light coats of tung oil.
 
I love my maple butcher block top bench. Fairly expensive but it attractive and durable.

I have another galvanized sheet covered bench for greasy parts, etc.

Mike L.
 
at the risk of being redundant, 2" x 4" top (3.5" thick), but I line the top with Waxed Paper in spots when cleanliness is needed. That section is nice when mixing epoxy... just mix on the surface top and replace it next time I use the epoxy. Makes me feel a little like a kid glueing stuff on my Mom's kitchen table.
 
Mine are made from laminated beam material. Around here they are called LVL's. About 2 1/4 x 12. I got them in short...3 foot or less pieces...from the local truss company. They were free as they were the cut-off ends from longer pieces. I cut tongue and groove on the edges and ends with a router, glued and pinned the joints with dowels and made thick heavy tops for my benches which I sealed with poly. They are holding up very well.
 
I am in the process of making an other workshop, after moving houses.
My plan now is to have a thick plywood worktop with a thin expendible sheeth of (oiled) plywood on top. Attached with small nails only, no glue.
I'll be able to cut, burn, draw, spill, punch, beat, abuse and all more, on it.
When it is time for 'spring clean' first year I'll use the other side of the thin plywood, the year after I'll replace it.
3,5mm is quite cheap.
 
If it is wood and you grind on it, make sure the sparks dont hit/lay on it... been there done that.
 
Not that my bench is dedicated to knife making (mostly woodworking stuff), but mine is an old and very heavy solid core door (like a few other posters) with a sheet of masonite stuck on top with double-sided carpet tape. The masonite takes all the major damage and is replaceable when it gets too funky.

I got the idea from Fine Woodworking magazine and like it just fine since I doubt i could ever afford a solid wood Swedish-style bench and would hate to work on a surface nicer than some of the projects I'd make in top of it.
 
bladsmth said:
The benches in my new shop will be 1" plywood with a 14 gauge stainless steel top plates. The stainless tops will be bent to form a back splash and a front lip.
The current tops are 3/4"plywood, and are burned, gouged, and beat to heck.
Click to expand...

Where would you get a sheet of 14 g steel and approx how much would a 4'x8' sheet run. I have seen a few ads on craigslist for 24g sheets for $40 but that seems way to thin.
 
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