work hardening steel

Britt_Askew

Britt_Askew

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
1,214
So far I have only used simple steels like 1095 and 5160. I profile my blades by using the chop saw then just hog them out on my belt grinder, takes only 4 or 5 minutes to profile a blade. Haven't had a problem doing this. Now I am ready to try and work with some CPM3v and it seems like I have read about this steel can work harden?

OK I am a woodworker and I am not 100% sure what work hardening will do to the steel.

Will I have a problem with the 3v work hardening if I get it to hot ? If it does work harden will that be fixed when heat treated? If it gets to hard will I have any problems completing the profile with ceramic belts? As much as this steel cost I would hate to ruin it.
 
Work hardening is a product of cold working. It leaves the grain and structure in a spaghetti like mass of stress. All metals can be work hardened. If you get the steel too hot, you will either burn it, or cause excessive grain growth. Grain growth can be dealt with. If you burn it, toss it. It would seem that you need to do some serious research before proceeding any farther. Set the 1095 aside for awhile. It is not for beginners. It is a simple steel in make up, but not in working it.
 
LRB said:
It would seem that you need to do some serious research before proceeding any farther.
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Well that was kind of the purpose of this thread.. to learn. I have tried google and thought I would ask the experts. Why should I set the 1095 to the side? I have made close to 40 knives using it and have been happy. I can control the temp during heat treat and I quench in parks50 , why should I "set it to the side?
 
Work hardening is caused by when energy is added to the steels structure from external sources. This causes disruptions and other things to happen that make the surface harder. It isn't caused by getting the steel too hot when grinding, but that does add more stress. All this is erased when the steel is normalized in the preliminary steps for HT. Even without normalization, most of the changes will be reversed when the steel crosses 1400F.

About the only place work hardening affects knifemaking is that it can make drilling holes harder. When drilling with too little feed pressure or too high speed the steel can work harden in the spot where the drill bit is and become too hard to drill, and ruin the bit.
 
Thanks Stacy. I have never posted pictures of my knives yet so here are a couple. The one at the top was my first, the others I am working on and need a little more sanding and sharpening.


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Spalted said:
Well that was kind of the purpose of this thread.. to learn. I have tried google and thought I would ask the experts. Why should I set the 1095 to the side? I have made close to 40 knives using it and have been happy. I can control the temp during heat treat and I quench in parks50 , why should I "set it to the side?
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I withdraw my comment. Your post seemed to reflect a beginners image.
 
I am definitely a beginner and I understand where you were coming from, I should have worded it different than simple steels. I do appreciate your honest opinion.
 
Spalted said:
I am definitely a beginner and I understand where you were coming from, I should have worded it different than simple steels. I do appreciate your honest opinion.
Click to expand...

By your photos, let's call you a very talented beginner with great potential.
 
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