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Work Knife

Joined
Jul 4, 2005
Messages
215
I'll be working construction this summer, so naturally I found it a good excuse to purchase a new knife. I've narrowed it down to either a 710 or a Manix, both of which I've been wanting for some time. What all would you suggest? And no, just getting them both isn't an option, although I wish it was:D .:thumbup:
 
In construction, you would probably be wearing gloves alot, so the spydie hole of the manix would be key. Also, it's a bigger knife, which could benefit you in that field. Just my thoughts.
 
Actually, I'd like to know what kind of construction.

If you'll be doin' a lot of "sticky and will get HARD" stuff cutting, I'd go Manix. A bit of dried refractory put a damper on my using an axis knife for that type of job.

But, being a 710 fan, I'd recommend this classic for otherwise.
 
What type of construction?

I do finish carpentry and some rough framing when helping friends, and always find that a typical $5 utility knife works MUCH better on the job. With the stuff you'll be cutting you'll have no need/purpose for a $100+ knife on the job.

Plus, the utility knives are often a lot faster to use as well.
 
I'd go for the Manix, its an amazing knife made out of great steel. Plus the hole makes for ver yeasy on-the-job one handed opening.
 
I'm with Tfin04. If the chances of this knife are high for it breaking or being damaged just get a few cheaper knives. For around 50$ you could get two Endura's or 2 cold steel voyagers. You could have one serrated knife and one plain edge.

Don't limit yourself to just one good knife. 2 are better than one if you buy the right ones:thumbup:


If your set on getting one i would go wi th the manix however.
 
Both great knives. Both classic knives. No bad choices. One big difference for me is the 710 carries more comfortably, and more discreetly. If your wearing gloves alot the Manix may work better. Did you consider the Military?
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll be doing commercail construction, putting up new dorms at a local university. I guess I should have been more specific, I highly doubt I'll use the knife while working very much, the job was simply an excuse to purchase one of the two. If I lie to myself about why I'm getting it, the credit card ding doesn't feel as bad later:thumbup: :D
 
If thats the case then the 710. Mine has gone thru hell, electrician for concrete company. I never have had good luck with spyders, always break the lock.
 
dpimpc::D Thats very funny... I lie my ass off all the time when it comes to buying knives. I can talk myself into nearly any ridiculous purchase at all...:D
 
dpimpc said:
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll be doing commercail construction, putting up new dorms at a local university. I guess I should have been more specific, I highly doubt I'll use the knife while working very much, the job was simply an excuse to purchase one of the two. If I lie to myself about why I'm getting it, the credit card ding doesn't feel as bad later:thumbup: :D

Well then go Benchmade! Please dont use either of them at the job. Carrying it and cutting an apple at lunch, fine. Trimming wood or opening bundles of lumber...no dice. WHATEVER you do, DO NOT score drywall with it. For the love of all that is sharp, just dont do it...:thumbdn:

Until Spyderco can truley compete with the Axis lock I wont be owning another.

(I've had plenty of each brand, for you lurkers who think I'm biased. I just think BM's designs are better as far as ease of use.)
 
Have to agree with the utility knife. They make some nice ones with easy blade change designs and good ergonomics. When I was roofing, a good utility knife was mandatory.
 
kbog said:
Have to agree with the utility knife. They make some nice ones with easy blade change designs and good ergonomics. When I was roofing, a good utility knife was mandatory.

I helped my father work on the roof of his house once. I had a SOG Twitch 2 and a Superknife with me. After cutting the first piece of sticky tarry roof paper with the Superknife I decided the Twitch would stay in my pocket the rest of the day. :)
 
With my 8 years on-off-on-on experience doing mickey-mouse construction I give you these words.

Firstly, buy a cheapie boxcutter-type knife, I gave up on the little folding guys because the handle was just too short and hard to hold. Go full size. Carry it with you everywhere, give it to people who need to borrow a knife and use it yourself if it works better than your folder. Shrug your shoulders if you lose it or it gets stolen.

Secondly, take off the pocket clip and get a sheath for it. If you ever get stuck doing a lot of cutting that sucker will give mean blisters and cause some pretty decent pain after the first few cuts.

Then, get something that is easy to sharpen, with a thinner edge (we have real prybars, don't need one with an edge) and a safe handle. Also realize that if you use your knife hard you won't see the sunny side of a shaving edge after the first cut of the day. Make sure your knife is cheap enough that it won't kill you when it gets lost/stolen, because you can't really do much when your 45 year-old 275-pound co-worker gives you a dirty look and says he already gave back your 120$ folder and you must have lost it.

I used a Manix for a little bit while working on the job (carpentry, masonry, government work, etc.) and quickly found that if at the end of the day my choice was between a 3 minute walk to the truck to get a cutter or using the Manix to cut something unmentionable (thin steel bands, bags o' quikcrete, tree roots, etc. again) I would always use the Manix. The problem was that sharpening it was such a pain I eventually sold it and went to a BM550 Griptilian in 440C because it took about a quarter of the time to sharpen the 550 over the Manix in the morning or at night before going to bed.

The three knives that I have always come back to have been the CRKT Lightfoot M1, the Spyderco Pacific Salt and the Benchmade 550. The first two I have purchased 3 different times to replace stolen knives or knives that were retired from use. Also, oddly enough, the victorinox 3' paring knife, in plain edge or serrated, makes an excellent construction knife. The only reason I don't use it more is because I'm too lazy to hunt up a sheath for it.

I did toy with the idea of a "super-knife" but I just like using a knife that is mine and giving it some real hard use.

P.S. The BM550 powers through drywall like butter if you whack it with a rubber mallet. (abuse? where?)
 
Interesting opinions. I always carry a good knife, but do not pry or cut anything that will really trash the edge. On the other hand I do not hesitate to use it hard under any conditions. Spyderco and BM's were designed and made for hard use. Some models like the great BM710 and Manix very hard use. I say put em to the test. (Also Sal gets insulted if you baby his knives to much);)
 
mrwilmoth said:
buck 110! perfect knife for work.
When I worked construction many years ago, I carried a Buck 110. Never regretted it.:thumbup:
 
mrwilmoth said:
buck 110! perfect knife for work.

Except for the fact that in the time it takes you to get the knife out of your pocket, open it, make a cut, close it, and put it away I could have scored snapped and hung three pieces of drywall to your one.

I'm just as much of a knife knut then anyone else, but I also believe in the right tool for the job. The right tool for construction is a cheapo utility knife.

Besides, I could lose and replace 50 of my stanley knives to your one, and still be ahead.
 
spearpoint buck/strider makes a good hard use knife, original spydie chinook is great too.

--Dave
 
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