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Work-sharp and Khukuris
- Thread starter vcbvcbvcb
- Start date
I haven't bought the WS yet. I bought a Browning Crowell-Barker 10" competitive chopper a few weeks ago just before I got interested in khukuris. I'm doing a little "cost benefit analysis" and trying to decide if I'm going to buy a WS or khukuri next. Any opinions on worksharp vs belt sander? I'm leaning towards the WS because it has set angles and variable speeds. I have a very good Gatco sharpening set, it just takes me a long time to get a good edge. I guess "a long time" is subjective. I like to use more than maintain.
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2010
- Messages
- 5,431
Here's a related thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/888504-how-to-sharpen-your-khukri
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/888504-how-to-sharpen-your-khukri
Yes he does. Freehand generates no heat and with little practice the original edge can be maintained by taking off as little as possible.
If you are worrying about scaring the blade, start with a Villager finish. I personally don't care about sharpening marks on a blade I'm using.
Larger blades are more difficult to manipulate at first. Getting use to the correct angle requires practice. I find free hand sharpening a lot more rewarding.
This is what I use to sharpen my Khukuris:
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You will see a series of 3 flat oil stones, course, medium (india fine), and fine (Arkansas soft). You can also see the round edge slip stone. I use this stone as a finishing stone on the recurve. I use the round 400 grit rod on the recurve first. I finish off the entire blade with a strop.
Round diamond rod and slip stone for the recurve.
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And the results after a good stropping. The paper below is newsprint. This edge will actually shave hair. I realize some people believe a hair shaving edge will dull more easily, but actually, if done properly, that is not the case. Getting a blade to shave has a lot to do with simply lining and straitening the edge, not necessarily making it thin.
[/URL][/IMG]
Larger blades are more difficult to manipulate at first. Getting use to the correct angle requires practice. I find free hand sharpening a lot more rewarding.
This is what I use to sharpen my Khukuris:
You will see a series of 3 flat oil stones, course, medium (india fine), and fine (Arkansas soft). You can also see the round edge slip stone. I use this stone as a finishing stone on the recurve. I use the round 400 grit rod on the recurve first. I finish off the entire blade with a strop.
Round diamond rod and slip stone for the recurve.
And the results after a good stropping. The paper below is newsprint. This edge will actually shave hair. I realize some people believe a hair shaving edge will dull more easily, but actually, if done properly, that is not the case. Getting a blade to shave has a lot to do with simply lining and straitening the edge, not necessarily making it thin.
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There are several links on how to sharpen towards the bottom of the link library: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...me-to-Read-the-Himalayan-Imports-Link-Library
Everything from round rods to flat stones. Many of the Kuks are more flat ground than convex. The most difficult part of sharpening a Kuk is getting used to the size of the blade and the recurve.
Above, you can see the scaring. This is my new 15" M-43. If the scaring bothered me that much, I would eventually put it on a water stone, and remove the scars. It doesn't, so I won't. In the field, all of these tools are not practical, but that single round rod is, and works quiet well, as does the slip stone.
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- Joined
- Jun 15, 2015
- Messages
- 894
I can't comment on the standard Work Sharp, but I have a Work Sharp with the blade grinder attachment and I have put my BAS, baby villager CAK, and IBBB/MMB on it, as well as a few cheap non-HI khuks. It's a little tricky finding the right angle, pressure, and tension at first, and definitely not worth getting one just for a couple khuks and miscellaneous knives. I have put edges on those blades and other HI blades by hand as well, using stones, sandpaper, and just the chakmak, and only use the WS for user blades because it can leave marks.
To comment on what Karda said, when I put a khukuri on the Work Sharp, I typically start with the second finest grit belts and run it on very low speed, then switch to the stropping belt to finish. My goal is to take off as little material as possible, and basically just repolish the edge. I have produced a couple blades by stock-removal using this grinder, and have developed a good feel for it, and I still agree that it is neither the best nor easiest method. I used it on my hard-use blades because it's pretty fast (5-10 min vs a half hour) and it produces a good, strong convex edge, capable of shaving hair off your arm.
I recommend reading all those sharpening threads and practicing by hand first, and if you still feel the need to use power tools, start with a villager finish on a low angle.
To comment on what Karda said, when I put a khukuri on the Work Sharp, I typically start with the second finest grit belts and run it on very low speed, then switch to the stropping belt to finish. My goal is to take off as little material as possible, and basically just repolish the edge. I have produced a couple blades by stock-removal using this grinder, and have developed a good feel for it, and I still agree that it is neither the best nor easiest method. I used it on my hard-use blades because it's pretty fast (5-10 min vs a half hour) and it produces a good, strong convex edge, capable of shaving hair off your arm.
I recommend reading all those sharpening threads and practicing by hand first, and if you still feel the need to use power tools, start with a villager finish on a low angle.
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2014
- Messages
- 2,010
Not trying to be smart here, so don't take it that way. After you have used your new khuk and need to sharpen it, I suggest you just grab a stone and have at it to see what your blade is going to require. I have khuks that will sharpen with a plain ol' flat and almost worn out Carborundum stone very nicely and be finished in 5 minutes or so. Others require different stones to accomplish the same task. Ask yourself just what kind of edge are you trying to achieve. Do you need to shave with it, slice strips of paper, or chop wood & brush? I really don't need a fancy edge as I don't have the pretties just to hang on the wall, nor do I want to spend the extra bucks on a fancy rig. A few more khuks could be obtained with that kind of loot.
Do the minimum for what you are trying to achieve and keep the expense down as much as you can. When you start sharpening that khuk the very first time, your common sense is going to tell you everything you'll need to know about what you want or think you want. Been there. Done that.
Do the minimum for what you are trying to achieve and keep the expense down as much as you can. When you start sharpening that khuk the very first time, your common sense is going to tell you everything you'll need to know about what you want or think you want. Been there. Done that.
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My KO work sharp is an awesome kuk sharpener, the flex of the belt and thin diameter allow it to contour to any blade shape, I've used it on several kukris with great results. Infact it gets your Kukri sharper than anyone e really needs in a chopper. I agree that everyone needs to be able to free hand sharpen all of their knives. I freehanded for over 25years before I ever dabbled in Lansky/Gatco systems and the WS or any other guided system for that matter. Ain't no elec outlets in the woods!