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Work Sharp Ken Onion for profiling only?

Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
82
My current sharpening plan is to set the bevel with a worksharp and then use a sharpmaker to maintain the edges. So basically just a worksharp to profile. Any reasons why this won't work?

I hear the WSKO creates convex edges so that is why i am doubting it will work as i want it to.
 
A convex edge can be made at a higher or lower angle than your intended edge-angle. Whether you grind convex with the WSKO or flat with the Sharpmaker, you are cutting material away to form the edge. It is a simple matter to grind a convex bevel at a shallow angle and then sharpen the edge with a crok-stik set-up like the sharpmaker. Go ahead and grind on your WSKO to set the bevel, then mark the edge with a red sharpie or similar tool and grind/sharpen it on your Sharpmaker. If the sharpmaker rods remove the 'paint' from the very apex, then you are able to maintain the edge with the sharpmaker. If the rods remove paint from behind the apex but not up to it, you will need to thin the bevel 'cheeks' or 'shoulders' to a lower angle before you can maintain the apex on the sharpmaker.
 
Perfect. Thanks for the clear explanation. I have been getting very frustrated with trying to re-profile some of these harder steels. I think this will help.
 
My current sharpening plan is to set the bevel with a worksharp and then use a sharpmaker to maintain the edges. So basically just a worksharp to profile. Any reasons why this won't work?

I hear the WSKO creates convex edges so that is why i am doubting it will work as i want it to.

This is what I do with my KOWS. I use it for the heavy work and then switch to a SM or diamond benchstones to finish the job. I can maintain the edge with a SM after that, but since I like slightly convexed edges, I usually stick to loaded strops for maintenance.
 
If you desire to minimize the convexing with the WSKO you can utilize the stiffer belts available as well as apply less pressure when profiling.
 
I often use my WSKO and Lansky Master's Edge (sort of Lansky's version of the SM) for just this purpose. Works just fine. Follow chiral's advice, and you should have no issues. :thumbup:
 
very light pressure will give you the least convex blade, that more pressure you put on the belt the more it has to curve around the blade which created the convex angle. if the SM doesnt sharpen all the way to the apex go back to the work sharp and reprofile the angle with lighter pressure or a more acute angle. but as long as your edge isnt crazy convex at a more obtuse angle you should have no problems with doing touch ups on a SM
i use a sharpie and a 10x loupe to ensure i sharpen to the apex. without a magnifine glass of some kind it can be easy to think you sharpened all the way to the apex when in reality your just a hair short
 
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