When I first got my Darex I decided to start with a few knives that I only paid a few dollars for. I quickly realized that it was not just as simple as pulling the knife across at a correct speed and angle. I've been practicing but I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I can slice paper decently, not great and I have only managed to get to hair cutting status. I have ordered some different grit belts that Darex doesn't sell. I don't think that they will make it perfect. I do think it will help. I have watched some videos and repeated thier technique but with no better results. Does anyone have advice or a video that helped them.
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Work sharp questions
- Thread starter tziegler
- Start date
The worksharp is a great tool. I'm really enjoying my WSKO. But it's just like any other sharpening device, in that, the basics still apply. You need to raise a burr, full length on the edge, on the first most coarse belt, on BOTH sides of the blade, before you move on.
I'm guessing you aren't getting a full length burr on both sides.
I use mine without the guides, using two hands to better control the blade. I'm getting fantastic results.
Let us know more details (like if you are forming a burr or not) and we'll try to help you get some killer edges from the WS.
Brian.
I'm guessing you aren't getting a full length burr on both sides.
I use mine without the guides, using two hands to better control the blade. I'm getting fantastic results.
Let us know more details (like if you are forming a burr or not) and we'll try to help you get some killer edges from the WS.
Brian.
Let me clarify my last post. I am moving the blade through faster to keep a burr from forming before I go to the polish belt. Should I not be doing that. Also I thought about the freehand method but I want to get it right using the guides first. I am getting ready to purchase the Ken onion version this weekend but I want to be able to use both in case one conks out
To sharpen with any belt, stone, etc, you should essentially do these steps each time:
1. Sharpen side A until you form a full length burr on side B.
2. Sharpen side B. This will very quickly remove the burr on side B. Keep going on side B until you form a full length burr on side A.
3. Remove the burr from side A.
Repeat for each belt in your progression.
If you do this with every belt, you'll get a very sharp and refined edge. From around 300 - 400 grit on up, once you remove the burr in step 3, you should be shaving sharp and phonebook paper slicing sharp.
If you want to save time, step 3 above can be done by the next finer belt. I.E., you'll remove the burr from the last belt you used, with the current, finer belt that you just put on the machine.
As you progress though the belts, the burrs should form VERY quickly. It usually happens in one pass for me, but I usually do more in order to polish out the scratch pattern from the previous belt. The burrs from finer belts will get smaller and smaller as you go. It's a natural consequence of a smaller grit abrasive. By the time you get to the 6000, the burr from the previous belt should be rather small. I'd recommend removing that burr, as best you can, before moving to the 6000. Even before the 6000, you should have an *extremely* sharp edge that's also very polished. Not quite as mirror polished as the 6000 can make it, but it should be quite impressive by most people's standards.
I hope this makes sense. Feel free to ask if you need clarification or if I didn't cover something.
Thanks,
Brian.
1. Sharpen side A until you form a full length burr on side B.
2. Sharpen side B. This will very quickly remove the burr on side B. Keep going on side B until you form a full length burr on side A.
3. Remove the burr from side A.
Repeat for each belt in your progression.
If you do this with every belt, you'll get a very sharp and refined edge. From around 300 - 400 grit on up, once you remove the burr in step 3, you should be shaving sharp and phonebook paper slicing sharp.
If you want to save time, step 3 above can be done by the next finer belt. I.E., you'll remove the burr from the last belt you used, with the current, finer belt that you just put on the machine.
As you progress though the belts, the burrs should form VERY quickly. It usually happens in one pass for me, but I usually do more in order to polish out the scratch pattern from the previous belt. The burrs from finer belts will get smaller and smaller as you go. It's a natural consequence of a smaller grit abrasive. By the time you get to the 6000, the burr from the previous belt should be rather small. I'd recommend removing that burr, as best you can, before moving to the 6000. Even before the 6000, you should have an *extremely* sharp edge that's also very polished. Not quite as mirror polished as the 6000 can make it, but it should be quite impressive by most people's standards.
I hope this makes sense. Feel free to ask if you need clarification or if I didn't cover something.
Thanks,
Brian.
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2012
- Messages
- 1,223
I wouldn't worry about one of them "conking" out. They are tough little devices. Going to the final belt with a small burr is not a bad thing. The 6000 belt is the "strop belt" and is meant to remove any left over burr. On your last belt before the 6000, use only light pressure to avoid over grinding and forming a large burr. The main burr should be formed on the lower grit belts, and then lighter pressure should be applied with the next belts to slowly abrade the burr away until the last belt where there is nearly no burr left, which will polish and finish your blade.
From your description is seems as though you are grinding with too much pressure and trying to form a burr with each belt. Use light pressure and let the belts do the work. If a good burr is formed on both sides with the lowest grit belt, then use the other belts to slowly remove the burr. No need to form a burr with each belt. Hope this helps and makes sense to you. (I am still on my first cup of coffee!)
Blessings,
Omar
From your description is seems as though you are grinding with too much pressure and trying to form a burr with each belt. Use light pressure and let the belts do the work. If a good burr is formed on both sides with the lowest grit belt, then use the other belts to slowly remove the burr. No need to form a burr with each belt. Hope this helps and makes sense to you. (I am still on my first cup of coffee!)
Blessings,
Omar