AFAustin
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2,494
Sharpening small blades can be a challenge, and there have been several discussions here about how they fare with various sharpening systems. I mainly own and use traditional folders and so have plenty of small thin blades to sharpen (and I like my knives sharp). I had good luck with my original model Work Sharp on these small blades, and I've had even better luck with the Ken Onion Edition.
There are several improvements in the KO version, and the different reviews here on the forum discuss them. What I've come to believe is that the most significant one of all is the variable speed motor, especially when it comes to small blades. The beauty---and the danger---of a belt grinder is how quickly it can remove metal. With small blades, of course, there isn't much blade real estate to begin with, so you really want to avoid removing any more metal than you have to. Moreover, any mistakes are exaggerated by the small blade surface you're working with. With the KO Edition, it's great to be able to crank the speed down to somewhere in the low-to-medium range and thereby have a lot more control over what's happening to that small blade. Frankly, the variable speed is great for all size blades, but with the small ones it's even more important.
I'm putting up some quick pics here to show how I have used the Work Sharp to set the bevels on my traditional folders. Some of these were done with the original model and some with the KO. (If you notice a slight "recurve" in the heel portion of the blade, the blade was probably done with the original model---just a split second of "lingering" in the start position with the motor at full speed can cause this right quick.) I wanted to show small, medium, and large traditionals, with a variety of blade shapes.
I should note that I sharpened these knives freehand style on the WS. I do sometimes use the guide, mainly on larger kitchen knives, but it justs gets in the way with small blades.
I usually sharpen at around 13-14 degrees (26-28 inclusive) because I use my knives lightly and I like the cutting performance this provides. In addition, I touch up the knives on my Sharpmaker at 15 degrees (usually the UF rods), and so the less-than-15-degree bevel makes that possible. (My final touch up is usually a denim strop with either Bark River green compound or Mother's Mag polish). I imagine that the wide bevels you see in many of these pics may not seem "traditional" to some, but of course the WS will let you sharpen at a more obtuse angle if that's your preference.
Finally, the point of this thread is not to convince anyone that I'm an accomplished sharpener, because I'm not. I spend a fair amount of time on this subforum and I see what the really skilled guys can accomplish, and I am in awe of their abilities. In contrast, on a good day I might qualify for the lower end of intermediate---that's about it. But that's also my point: the Work Sharp, especially the KO Edition, has made it possible for a guy with limited skills to have and enjoy very sharp knives (the knives in this thread will all easily slice and/or push cut phone book paper).
So, on with the traditionals.
Let's start with the smallest: a couple of Schrade 12OTs with nice clip blades:
Next are a Case Swayback Gent with a wharncliffe blade and a GEC #25 with a drop point:
Next is a trio from Case: Canoe, Humpback Stockman, and Medium Jack, showing their pen blades:
A Case Mini Trapper and a Case Medium Stockman, with two different size spey blades:
The same Medium Stockman showing its sheepsfoot. I had a small problem with this blade---the WS left it with a slightly "wavy" edge. I ground it straight on a Norton India stone and then finished it on the WS.
A pair of GEC #15 Boys Knives, one with a clip and the other with a slim spear:
A couple of fatter spears, on a Case Canoe and a GEC #55 Houndstooth:
A Case Sowbelly with an upturned clip and a Schrade 5OT with a drop point:
Three big clips, on a Case Copperlock and two versions of the Case full size Trapper:
Finally, a couple of large speys, from the same Case Trappers:
Thanks for reading and looking.
Andrew
There are several improvements in the KO version, and the different reviews here on the forum discuss them. What I've come to believe is that the most significant one of all is the variable speed motor, especially when it comes to small blades. The beauty---and the danger---of a belt grinder is how quickly it can remove metal. With small blades, of course, there isn't much blade real estate to begin with, so you really want to avoid removing any more metal than you have to. Moreover, any mistakes are exaggerated by the small blade surface you're working with. With the KO Edition, it's great to be able to crank the speed down to somewhere in the low-to-medium range and thereby have a lot more control over what's happening to that small blade. Frankly, the variable speed is great for all size blades, but with the small ones it's even more important.
I'm putting up some quick pics here to show how I have used the Work Sharp to set the bevels on my traditional folders. Some of these were done with the original model and some with the KO. (If you notice a slight "recurve" in the heel portion of the blade, the blade was probably done with the original model---just a split second of "lingering" in the start position with the motor at full speed can cause this right quick.) I wanted to show small, medium, and large traditionals, with a variety of blade shapes.
I should note that I sharpened these knives freehand style on the WS. I do sometimes use the guide, mainly on larger kitchen knives, but it justs gets in the way with small blades.
I usually sharpen at around 13-14 degrees (26-28 inclusive) because I use my knives lightly and I like the cutting performance this provides. In addition, I touch up the knives on my Sharpmaker at 15 degrees (usually the UF rods), and so the less-than-15-degree bevel makes that possible. (My final touch up is usually a denim strop with either Bark River green compound or Mother's Mag polish). I imagine that the wide bevels you see in many of these pics may not seem "traditional" to some, but of course the WS will let you sharpen at a more obtuse angle if that's your preference.
Finally, the point of this thread is not to convince anyone that I'm an accomplished sharpener, because I'm not. I spend a fair amount of time on this subforum and I see what the really skilled guys can accomplish, and I am in awe of their abilities. In contrast, on a good day I might qualify for the lower end of intermediate---that's about it. But that's also my point: the Work Sharp, especially the KO Edition, has made it possible for a guy with limited skills to have and enjoy very sharp knives (the knives in this thread will all easily slice and/or push cut phone book paper).
So, on with the traditionals.
Let's start with the smallest: a couple of Schrade 12OTs with nice clip blades:
Next are a Case Swayback Gent with a wharncliffe blade and a GEC #25 with a drop point:
Next is a trio from Case: Canoe, Humpback Stockman, and Medium Jack, showing their pen blades:
A Case Mini Trapper and a Case Medium Stockman, with two different size spey blades:
The same Medium Stockman showing its sheepsfoot. I had a small problem with this blade---the WS left it with a slightly "wavy" edge. I ground it straight on a Norton India stone and then finished it on the WS.
A pair of GEC #15 Boys Knives, one with a clip and the other with a slim spear:
A couple of fatter spears, on a Case Canoe and a GEC #55 Houndstooth:
A Case Sowbelly with an upturned clip and a Schrade 5OT with a drop point:
Three big clips, on a Case Copperlock and two versions of the Case full size Trapper:
Finally, a couple of large speys, from the same Case Trappers:
Thanks for reading and looking.
Andrew
