Work Sharp vs. Wicked Edge

A

akthor

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Jan 23, 2010
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I realize the two probably can't be compared but to me the wicked edge looks like A LOT of work.

Also let me say that I don't enjoy sharpening knives so neither process with either device strikes me as fun.

I am also inept at sharpening using flat stones or similar. Basically I sharpen using one of the draw thru devices that is basically a "V" of carbide or tungsten or ceramic. While this can make a dull knife serviceable it pales in comparison to the edge my knives come with from the makers of my customs. So while I can slice a tomato using my process I never approach "hair popping sharp". And on a couple of my customs that are made of uber steel with uber hardness I can't even really sharpen them at all with the doo dad I have.

SOoooooo can I get comparable edges with both devices or is the Wicked Edge worth the nearly 4x the cost?

Has anyone used both?
 
I have the Edge Pro ( same idea as wicked edge ) and the Work Sharp. The work Sharp and Wicked Edge are two different systems. Have seen much praise for both units. From what you have written the Work Sharp should meet your needs and give you a better edge then what you are getting now.
 
Both would be a major leap in your sharpening capability. I opted for the wicked edge, as I see it there is no way for human error to effect your outcome.unlike edge pro where YOU must keep the blade flat and flip side to side. The wicked edge is super easy to use, I can get dull to hair popping in 20-30 mins. It is pricy, but worth every pennie imo. Especially when re profiling an edge, super fast with the W.E.
 
TOTALLY different animals. I own the Wicked Edge, have used the Worksharp a number of times, and sharpen constantly on a Kalamazoo belt grinder, which is more or less just a WorkSharp writ very large (or the WorkSharp is a belt sander writ very small, more precisely).

From your general statement, you want the WorkSharp. The stock belts that come with it are MORE than capable of getting shaving-sharp edges, and will do so in very little time on almost any knife at all, no matter how battered. The Wicked Edge can give a superior edge to the WorkSharp, but it takes time and practice, despite how simple the system is to use. If you don't LIKE sharpening, then the WorkSharp will give you the most sharp for the least time invested. The WorkSharp will take some practice as well, of course, and you will want to work with it on crappy knives first (I like to hit second-hand stores and garage sales to get crappy old chinese kitchen knives to grind up in practice). The belt can take off material very, very quickly. That is what makes it easy to sharpen with, but it can also bite you if you fumble it a bit as you're pulling the edge across the belt. It takes only an instant to clip off a tip by pulling it past the halfway point on the belt, or a moment of hesitation to grind a wobble into the base of the blade as you start the stroke. Practice a bit first!

And either one of them will kick the trash out of that pull-through scrape-and-wince piece of crap. :D
 
I also have a knife with an 18" blade which I think would be a challenge on the Wicked Edge.

Since I can get shaving sharp with the Work Sharp I think that's a good choice for my needs and wants. Thanks fellas
 
The Work Sharp is a great little tool to get the gob done. It will turn a blunt knife into a razor in two minutes.
I get more use out of my HF 1x30 belt sander these days but the WS is nice for quick touch ups.
I would order a few extra belts along with it. The 1800 grit is nice for touch ups and leaves a good working edge.
Do a search and read up on usage, there is a ton of good info and feedback on here.
 
FTR-14c said:
The Work Sharp is a great little tool to get the gob done. It will turn a blunt knife into a razor in two minutes.
I get more use out of my HF 1x30 belt sander these days but the WS is nice for quick touch ups.
I would order a few extra belts along with it. The 1800 grit is nice for touch ups and leaves a good working edge.
Do a search and read up on usage, there is a ton of good info and feedback on here.
Click to expand...

If the OP doesn't mind I'd like to ask you a question.

I have a Delta 1x30 belt grinder. It's very similar to the HF model.

Since you sharpen knives with it, can you tell me which belt(s) you use, and where on the belt do you sharpen? Do you use the platen? Edge up or down?

Any advice for doing this? I have a fair bit of experience using the grinder, but not for sharpening. Of course I would practice a lot on crap knives before I use it for my nice ones. :)

Thanks
 
Grinder is awesome, mine's a Kalamazoo 1x42. I've seen this question a few times, so I'll just C&P in the same response I've used before (most of which was excellent advice given to me when *I* started, by Doug Rising). The only question you've asked there that's not answered, I think, is that I sharpen edge-down, and usually just about a half-inch above the platen. Stropping MUST be done edge-down, of course. Edge-up would catch instantly, throw the knife from your hand, and destroy the leather belt. :)

To start out with I will give you the same advice I received from Doug Rising when I started out. I would probably get some inexpensive grit belts. EconAbrasives has very good deals, I would probably purchase two each of 120, 220, 320 and 400 grit, then add a 15u and 9u 3M micron-graded belt. Also, two SurgiSharp leather belts, and a pound bar each of their green Ultra Fine and white Extra Fine buffing compounds. That will get you started with a fairly minimal investment, and will easily put VERY good edges on your blades. Once you're comfortable with the belt and have decided that you're going to keep that as your sharpening method, then talk to Doug, and let him guide you down the rabbit hole of the Trizact family. They're really superb belts, and are well worth the higher price tag once you are comfortable with sharpening on your new tool.

I personally have been sharpening on the belt for only six months or so now(This is a bit dated, I'm several years in now), and am still learning a lot with every knife I do. I just know I won't be going back any time soon, certainly not for working edges!

If you're interested: My current line-up runs a Norton Blaze ceramic 120-grit belt if the knife needs a little re-profiling, chips removed or a tip reground, then Trizacts in A65, A20, A16, A6 and A3, then the same two SurgiSharp leather belts I started out with, and the Econ compounds. Depends on what I'm doing, but frequently for working knives I will use the 120, then the A65 and A16, then the leather. I've actually run with a 120/A20/Leather set a couple times for fairly good results, but your mileage will vary with your style, and what kind of edge you decide you need.

I would HIGHLY suggest just going and grabbing some cheap old kitchen knives from a second-hand store or goodwill to practice on, that way if you get a little grind-happy and take off a tip while you're learning, it's no biggie.

General tips:

1. Keep it cool! If you can't pinch the edge tightly in your fingers as soon as it comes off the belt, you're getting a tad warm and it's time to dip the blade.

2. Only take the point HALFWAY across the belt. If you drag the point all the way across, you can take it right off the knife in an instant.

3. Light pressure! The belt is doing the work, your job is just to guide the edge along it.

4. Keep the edge square to the belt. You always want the belt moving so that the grit is passing perpendicular to the edge. That means as the belly and tip roll up toward the spine, you will need to lift the handle to keep the edge parallel with the floor.

5. Don't stress! The belt is a very instinctive way to sharpen, and convex edges are quite forgiving. Don't worry about angles too much, it's very easy to see if you're getting things even by looking at how far the spine and belt are apart.


EDIT: For meat slicing, your best bet might be to stop at a 220 grit belt, and just use the green on leather to strop off the burr. A little bit of bite left in your edge can make the slice through tissue a lot smoother. The downside is that it dulls more rapidly than a highly-polished edge, but if you've got the belt right there, a new edge takes about 90 seconds.
 
And hey, bear in mind that's just one schmoe's opinion. You'll find lots of schools of thought out there. Be happy to answer any questions I can for 'ya, the little Delta is MORE than capable of insanely-sharp edges with just a bit of practice. :)
 
Well I'm thinking it could be a good or really bad idea. :D

I plan to use stones for simple carbon steel knives, but I like the idea of using a faster method for my high wear knives in steels like m4 and 204p. The problem with this is that obviously these are not inexpensive knives meanwhile the grinder offers more of a chance to screw up. A double edged sword (so to speak)...
 
Go ahead... but don't spend too much cash on your stones. 'Cause once you start getting used to the belt, you'll find yourself heading for it for darn near everything. :D

Before you try any knife you actually CARE about on the belt, though, make sure you've done a few practice runs with crappy stuff you don't care about. There's a touch to it, an easy one to learn, but still one that needs to be figured out. The same property that makes the belt awesome (speed of material removal) is one of its greatest drawbacks. A lapse of attention can eat a chunk out of a blade VERY quickly, especially on a high speed machine like yours.

As with most things, practice, practice practice! :)
 
Komitadjie said:
Go ahead... but don't spend too much cash on your stones. 'Cause once you start getting used to the belt, you'll find yourself heading for it for darn near everything. :D

Before you try any knife you actually CARE about on the belt, though, make sure you've done a few practice runs with crappy stuff you don't care about. There's a touch to it, an easy one to learn, but still one that needs to be figured out. The same property that makes the belt awesome (speed of material removal) is one of its greatest drawbacks. A lapse of attention can eat a chunk out of a blade VERY quickly, especially on a high speed machine like yours.

As with most things, practice, practice practice! :)
Click to expand...

Indeed, that's the plan. ;)

I'll keep you in mind if I have any more questions.
 
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