- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 19,793
Last year at Blade Show I bought a Worksharp system to give it a go. Before ruining the first knife I set the machine aside and we've never used it for much around here. I've seen a few knives come back recently with obvious work sharp damage and I'd like to address this. Folks, I can't put steel back on a knife at the grinder. I also can't re-heat treat a knife. Because of this, and for your protection in the aftermarket, we will not fix any knife that has has been re-machined by the end user or another knifemaker. Lets say I fix up a Bushfinger that has been wrecked on a worksharp. In this example enough steel was left on the blade for me to re-grind it "as new condition". Then it gets re-sold in the flea market, and you would have no way to know its been mangled and may have had the heat treat burned off.
Ways a Worksharp can ruin your Fiddleback knife:
1. Pulling the knife through the guide will put longitudinal scratches on the bevels. If you insist on using a worksharp, please be prepared for these scratches.
2. Using pressure to form the belt to the convex shape of the bevels of your knife may cause enough belt stretch to contact the parts of the Worksharp behind the belt, flattening a spot on your grind. This is something I cannot usually fix.
3. As the worksharp is a belt grinder, use of one on a Fiddleback knife voids the warranty on the knife. I simply have no idea what the heat treat status of that steel is anymore, and cannot guarantee the edge, which means I cannot guarantee the knife. So the worksharp system ruins the warranty on a Fiddleback knife.
4. Lump category of all the different ways any belt grinder can ruin a knife.
IMHO, your worksharp should be used on your hatchets and shovels, machetes, or farm tools. Specific example: use a worksharp on Hoes. Maybe try using it on your fingernails. But please do not put handmade knives on the worksharp. A little hand sharpening and elbow grease is an unbeatable combination on your fine handmade cutlery.
Thanks!
Ways a Worksharp can ruin your Fiddleback knife:
1. Pulling the knife through the guide will put longitudinal scratches on the bevels. If you insist on using a worksharp, please be prepared for these scratches.
2. Using pressure to form the belt to the convex shape of the bevels of your knife may cause enough belt stretch to contact the parts of the Worksharp behind the belt, flattening a spot on your grind. This is something I cannot usually fix.
3. As the worksharp is a belt grinder, use of one on a Fiddleback knife voids the warranty on the knife. I simply have no idea what the heat treat status of that steel is anymore, and cannot guarantee the edge, which means I cannot guarantee the knife. So the worksharp system ruins the warranty on a Fiddleback knife.
4. Lump category of all the different ways any belt grinder can ruin a knife.
IMHO, your worksharp should be used on your hatchets and shovels, machetes, or farm tools. Specific example: use a worksharp on Hoes. Maybe try using it on your fingernails. But please do not put handmade knives on the worksharp. A little hand sharpening and elbow grease is an unbeatable combination on your fine handmade cutlery.
Thanks!
