working byrd

Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
3,376
byrdrescue2.jpg


The Byrd Rescue 2 that Spyderco sent me to replace the Cara Cara Rescue I lost overboard. I have been doing a lot of my rope work and splicing indoors (in my kitchen) due to the temperature being in the teens lately. I usually use a burner to cut the knots out of the rope because the splices come out a lot cleaner but the girl didn't want the apartment to smell like burned plastic. Plus it gave me a chance to cut things. :)

It usually takes me a couple hours to cut and splice up a groundline that has a lot of knots. They are about 650 feet long (not including the buoy lines) and mine have a LOT of knots in them. The serrated edge makes short work of the 3/8ths and 7/16ths rope. I keep the sharpmaker nearby and usually have to sharpen the knife 3 or 4 times in the 5-6 hours I do splicing. I usually use the brown stones but have had to use the diamond rods a couple of times. The rope is impregnated with sand and it wreaks havock on an edge.

I like the long blade (around 4 inches) with the straight cutting edge for doing rope work. I can pull cut or saw through the rope without worrying about the line coming off of the tip of the knife as it does with a blade with belly to it. I prefer the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe or tanto (yeah, they make decent rope cutting knives :D) to a hawkbill (which is also exceptional for cutting rope with the pull cut but not so good slicing it against a cutting board for example) and I prefer a straight or concave cutting edge to one with even moderate curvature or belly. I have never used a recurved blade for work.

I prefer the "less-super" steel for this kind of work. This rope will dull VG-10 and S30V as fast as it will AUS-8 or 8Cr13MoV so i prefer a blade steel that i can resharpen easily with minimal effort.

I preferred the old-style clip on the Cara Cara Rescue to the new "paddle" style clip on the Rescue 2. For long cutting sessions I found the paddle style to press into my palm. Cutting rope is not as easy on the knife as a whole as it may seem. 2 days of splicing put a moderate amount of up and down and side to side play into the blade and the clip has begun to exhibit side to side play as well. I think I will need to tighten the screws for the clip and also for the pivot to correct this.

2 final points about this knife- I like the texturing to the FRN better on the second gen. byrds than on the first and I like how the sheepsfoot Byrd knives leave a 1/4 inch or so of plain edge at the very tip of the knife instead of the short serration found on spyderco sheepsfoot knives.

All in all I don't hesitate to recommend the Byrd line to non knife people looking for an inexpensive folder. You get a heck of a lot of quality and a hard working knife for 20 or 30 bucks.

pete
 
I think you'd like the Saver Salt/Atlantic a lot more. I used mine for cutting sandy Dyneema (anyone who knows this stuff knows it a huge PITA to cut) and the H1 held up a lot better. It's not abrasion resistant so it's easy to sharpen, but it's significantly harder so it doesn't chip out like 8cr does in sand, it just abrades.

Not so strong in light of carbide steel tilling heads, but I digress.
 
Itch Blade-

I prefer the serration pattern on the Cara Cara/Meadowlark Rescue over the toothier serrations that appear on VG-10 and H-1 knives. They tend to "hang up" less in the fibers of rope if they are dull.
 
Back
Top