Working Carbon Fiber questions.

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Dec 1, 2013
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Hi guys, so I tried my hand at making scales in G-10, and though Im far from being an expert Im confident I can turn out a good pair in carbon fiber. This gets a little expensive, and any mistake is bound to be even more frustrating.

My questions regard the differences between working these materials.
Is there a big difference?
Does CF put more wear on your tools?
Dust control? G-10 is kind of nasty it can leave tiny fiberglass burrs in your skin and not so good to breathe in either.
Is there a difference between the materials?..weave etc...

I want to make a pair of scales in lightning strike CF...any thing extra special about this type?

Thanks.
 
From my own limited exp solid CF is a little easier to work than G10 but mistakes are harder to cover up/fix, YMMV of course. I wear a respirator working with either plus nitril gloves and a long sleeve shirt* and I have an exhaust fan running from my work bench to outside. As far as tool wear (again pretty limited experience) the G10 is worse, especially on saw blades and grinding wheels than CF. My only work in CF was with twill weave and "670 pattern" tho, and not LSCF so I don't know if that is any easier/harder to work.

I would suggest if you haven't already made a set or two for the particular knife your wanting to use CF on I would first make a of scales in cheapest ($3.50/ pair of blanks) G10 before attempting it with ~$30-40/pair of CF, just a good idea generally.

*Note I don't wear gloves or loose fitting long selves when grinding/polishing/milling/drilling for safety reasons.
 
Long sleeves, gloves, respirator! You do not want CF dust anywhere near your. Take off your dusty clothes before you go into your house.

CF is pretty easy to work with. It sands pretty easily and a tool like the Dremel makes shaping it pretty easy. If you're going to cut it with a ban saw or hack saw use a dull blade. It'll dull a new blade almost instantly. I'd imagine it would be quite similar to G10.
 
From my own limited exp solid CF is a little easier to work than G10 but mistakes are harder to cover up/fix, YMMV of course. I wear a respirator working with either plus nitril gloves and a long sleeve shirt* and I have an exhaust fan running from my work bench to outside. As far as tool wear (again pretty limited experience) the G10 is worse, especially on saw blades and grinding wheels than CF. My only work in CF was with twill weave and "670 pattern" tho, and not LSCF so I don't know if that is any easier/harder to work.

I would suggest if you haven't already made a set or two for the particular knife your wanting to use CF on I would first make a of scales in cheapest ($3.50/ pair of blanks) G10 before attempting it with ~$30-40/pair of CF, just a good idea generally.

*Note I don't wear gloves or loose fitting long selves when grinding/polishing/milling/drilling for safety reasons.

Long sleeves, gloves, respirator! You do not want CF dust anywhere near your. Take off your dusty clothes before you go into your house.

CF is pretty easy to work with. It sands pretty easily and a tool like the Dremel makes shaping it pretty easy. If you're going to cut it with a ban saw or hack saw use a dull blade. It'll dull a new blade almost instantly. I'd imagine it would be quite similar to G10.

Thanks for the replies,
one more question, What about finishing, polishing how much of a shine cane one get on it, and should it be re finished like with some type of resin or lacquer to get a smooth surface?


I made these as a practice run for the CF scales I want to make.

etwj.jpg


tb0s.jpg
 
Sand it as fine as possible and rub a little carnauba wax into it. That will give it a nice shine and protect it from dirt and oils from your hands.
 


I made these for a Springfield champion I used to own. I shaped them on a belt sander, finish sanded to 2000 grit by hand, and polished/buffed with a cotton wheel on bench grinder and some jewelers rouge. I was extremely pleased with finished product. Defiantly wears longs leaves and paints, and respirator. I would even wait for a cool day or have a cooled room to work in so you don't sweat while working with it.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, cant wait to get to work on these scales Ill post results once I have something finished.
 
I made my own handle for my knife from carbon fiber.

A. Cuts hard. Chop saw with a great carbide tipped blade sang, almost painful loud.

B. Forshner(?) bit almost dull. Regular twist drill bit survived OK. Drills real accurate.

C. Sands great. Dust everywhere and scratchy. Wear gloves, long sleeves, respirator. Do it outside if possible.

D. Finishes great. Sands progressive, I sprayed poly. Polished nice. A glues well with epoxy.

E. I have heard the lightning strike is a little ify on final finish, rough. Just what I have heard.

F. I have 2 pieces of 1/4" X 2" X 5" of aerospace carbon fiber left over. Willing to make a deal.

My 2 cents.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
My new Lightning strike carbon fiber scales just arrived. :D, Now I have to decide which of my two knives to mod, The Benchmade 275 Adamas (original in black G10) or The Benchmade 300-1 (original in Black and Blue G10).

I had originally ordered them for the 300-1, but the scales that arrived are long enough to do the Adamas.

The Adamas would look awesome in LSCF but Ive done about 3 sets of custom scales already for it in G10, plus the original scales are mostly flat with a slight taper, and would show off the weave perfectly, but it is kind of hard to get free hand with the dremel. I think the other scales i made look good because the laminated colors and the (scaloping?) hide the uneven surface. but on the plus side I know I can get these scaled to fit just right if not perfectly flat.

The 300-1 would also be amazing in LSCF. I would make the scales in the same pattern as the ones I posted above, or just very smooth polished flat ones with rounded edges to show it off..

What would you guys do? ....

I know, Do both!!! lol maybe later for now i have to pick one.
 
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