Working kukris?

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Oct 7, 2008
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I want a machete for bushcraft, do you guys think that these knives are working knives? Or just pretty knives? Can you also post pics of them in use?
 
Are you asking if HI products are working knives or just the more "machete-like" ones like the bolo?

The answer is most of them are meant to work, some (like the Kothimodas and Bhairab) are more ornamental, but certainly capable of work.

Here's a thread showing some fairly heavy work being done by a Chiruwa Ang Khola: CAK vs Hurricane Ike

There's plenty more stories and pictures of HI kukris in use. I'm sure some of the guys that recently bought the bolos will post pics of them in use. There's plenty more, just look back through the posts here and you'll see them.

Also interesting to note is look through the Stickys at the top of the page, and note that the recommended testing procedure to see if a kukri is up to snuff would void most manufacturer's warranties (especially the "drive the point into a log and pry back and forth" part).

Most guys show pics of their shiny new blades, but after more and more use, they get a brownish patina on them (normal for carbon steel), and some intentionally put a patina on them. My HI products that I use the most (and get used the most of any of my blades) started getting a serious patina on them, and I finished it off intentionally (to me it looks weird to have a bright, shiny kukri, except for a fan-shaped patina at the sweet spot).

20" CAK:
20CAK01.jpg


R-10:
R101.jpg


Note the excellent balance:
R102.jpg


In short HI products, even their flashy ones, are hard-use blades, no doubt about it.
 
These are definately working knives.... and the Best khukuris coming out of Nepal.
Check the "First khukuri-recommendations and reasons" thread at the top of the first page. That should give you a start in deciding what type you need. also ask questions about whatever blade you feel you want and we'll help to steer you toward one that will suit your needs.

Here some topics for you to peruse also, this is a small portion..if you go far enough back in the archives you will see these arent "just pretty knives"

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601284

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604532

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604873

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603174

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=588513

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=591365

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589271

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585842
 
I just got into these awesome knives and actually feel a bit guilty since I cannot give them the proper workout. I feel the majority of khuks (even my new little baby AK) are working knives and do a fantastic job for me around the house and yard. I suppose I could even EDC my baby AK, especially if I had a more traditional sheath made up for it.
 
Yep, pretty much every HI knife is capable of doing work. Like others have said, some might be a little too pretty to dirty up, but they designed with function in mind.

The more "workhorse" models come in around 3/8" to 1/2" thick at the spine. They either have a full tang with a slab grip or a fat kangaroo shaped tang that goes all the way through the handle and is peened over with a keeper. The term "bombproof" comes to mind;)

That said, if you are looking for a knife to do more machete type work...well, it's tough to beat a good machete. They can be had very inexpensively and generally last and last. The khuk, on the other hand, is more of a heavy chopper that would more likely replace a hatchet or large knife. It depends. If you have light vine work in mind, then stick with a nice machete. If you are wanting to take on saplings and thicker wood, the khuk is your best bet;)
 
Or he can get a nice Sirupate or Kobra for the machete work, and an AK for chopping.

After all, who has ever bought only one kukri?

ETA, an Uddha sword would make a hell of a machete also. Even my Tarwar, albeit a bit heavy for the work, still makes the vines cringe when they see it. :D
 
Mine are excellent working tools; the ones with the slab handles are pretty much indestructible. Handle cracks happen occasionally in the kangaroo-tail models, but for the most part the cracks are stable and do not affect use. You can chip an edge if you hit metal or stone, of course, but the blades really are surprisingly tough.

Generally speaking, I suspect that wood handles might hold up a little better than horn; perhaps the other forum members will have more experience with this.

The difference between a good one and great one is all about how it fits your own hand and your own swing. There is a complex, subtle interplay between weight, balance, handle angle, and blade geometry that just seems to make some cut of them cut like light sabers. I don't think you can predict it, but if you start with a recommended beginner's model you'll almost certainly be happy with your purchase.

The traditional handle, with the ring in the middle and the bell at the end, might feel odd at first, but resist the temptation to modify it until you have used the kuk for a while. You might be surprised at how quickly this ancient design grows on you. (I do admit that I sand the sharp points off the handle bell, but I usually leave the rest of it alone).

Be sure to read the safety thread. You can really scramble yourself with one of these things if you're not careful...
 
Or he can get a nice Sirupate or Kobra for the machete work, and an AK for chopping.

After all, who has ever bought only one kukri?

ETA, an Uddha sword would make a hell of a machete also. Even my Tarwar, albeit a bit heavy for the work, still makes the vines cringe when they see it. :D

A Gelbu Special and sirupati models make great brush blades. I call them my HI Machetes. I have a WWII and AK for heavy stuff and a couple Sirupati's for light to medium stuff.


The difference between a good one and great one is all about how it fits your own hand and your own swing. There is a complex, subtle interplay between weight, balance, handle angle, and blade geometry that just seems to make some cut of them cut like light sabers. I don't think you can predict it, but if you start with a recommended beginner's model you'll almost certainly be happy with your purchase.

The traditional handle, with the ring in the middle and the bell at the end, might feel odd at first, but resist the temptation to modify it until you have used the kuk for a while. You might be surprised at how quickly this ancient design grows on you. (I do admit that I sand the sharp points off the handle bell, but I usually leave the rest of it alone).

Be sure to read the safety thread. You can really scramble yourself with one of these things if you're not careful...

This design has been around for a long time as Mike already mentioned. Chop with it first before trying to modify the handle. Many people have talked about wanted to mod it before trying it then afterwards changed there minds. Though some handles just don't fit your hand and you will learn if this is the case after using it a bit. If that is the case, make it work for you. :)

Another thing to keep in mind, this blades do not handle like any other blade you've ever handled if you are just used to Bowies and Machetes. Becarefull, respect the blade and it will respect you. Know where your swing will take the blade before you make the swing. Have fun and if you have any more questions, please ask!

Heber
 
I'm not on the Forum much. Basicly life interferes and work keeps me on the road almost 5 days a week for 12+ hours a day. When I moved to my new property 18 months ago it had been neglected for almost 10 years and used as the neighborhood illegal trash dump. I won't go into the whole boring and very repetitive story that has been repeated time and time again on this forum. Lets just say that all my kuks both HI and non HI have recieved one heck of a workout. ( The only execptions are my Museam Model and my BAS ( MM was bought strictly as a display piece and my BAS tends to be my EDC belt knife).

When I can safely swing the blades ( Embedded steel and Cast Iron in wierd places) I tend to use my M-43 and my Dui Chirra. Both of these blades chop like a bleeping chainsaw on the small diameter hardwoods I am having to clear. My Dui Chirra I refer to as my "Nepelese Lightsaber" and to be honest will cut and slice just by it's own weight, Definately read and reread the safety thread, I have had more close calls with this blade (Dui Chirra) than any other. On the other hand during the major ice storm in this area a year ago my Dui Chirra cut through ice encrusted wood that even my axe had problems with.

HI will do and handle the chopping tasks, which is why a lot of us have more than one. ( I have the M-43, BAS, MM, Dui Chirra) and I have just ordered 2 more ( 16.5 WWII and Malla) ,although the new Yeti Hunters have me intrigued (wish I could hang around here a bit more) You don't get that kind of return sales with out haveing a blade that does what you say it does.

Are they perfect...nah each blade has a purpose that it excells at better than the others, which is another reason we keep oming back and getting more that can do the task. Also You cannot beat the HI customer service and refund policy.

Try one and get ready to keep coming back for more and more, there is a reason this blade design has been around as long as it has.


Ok gotta get back to reclaiming the jungle.

Marc Adkins
 
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resist the temptation to modify it until you have used the kuk for a while
In support of that advice, consider whether you're likely be working with protective gloves on -- a handle that seems a bit uncomfortable to hold in the house, can turn out to be ideal when outdoors in practical use.
 
The more "workhorse" models ... either have a full tang with a slab grip or a fat kangaroo shaped tang that goes all the way through the handle and is peened over with a keeper. The term "bombproof" comes to mind;)

Gotta love how the 'roo has replaced the rat.:p ;)

Aussie's will be proud! :D :thumbup:
 
I want a machete for bushcraft, do you guys think that these knives are working knives? Or just pretty knives? Can you also post pics of them in use?

Check out the straight-edged blade in this pic called the HI Bamboo Cutter. Spine is nearly 1/2 inch thick... its like The Machete from Hell. Totally kicks bushcraft ass:

akandbamboo.jpg
 
ETA, an Uddha sword would make a hell of a machete also. Even my Tarwar, albeit a bit heavy for the work, still makes the vines cringe when they see it. :D

I think my Uddha would be a bit hefty for machete duty. My HI users are mostly choppers, but I'd suspect a 20" and under Kumar Kobra would be the prime choice for machete work. Generic machetes are typically very thin (though sometimes very weight forward), so even a medium sized kobra is going to seem thick by comparison. I have a 25" Kobra, but that might be oversized for machete work. I couldn't see myself swinging it through brush for hours worth of hiking.
 
No hoppin marsupial has replaced me.

Nor could it!;)

My HI users are mostly choppers, but I'd suspect a 20" and under Kumar Kobra would be the prime choice for machete work. Generic machetes are typically very thin (though sometimes very weight forward), so even a medium sized kobra is going to seem thick by comparison. I have a 25" Kobra, but that might be oversized for machete work. I couldn't see myself swinging it through brush for hours worth of hiking.

I have emailed Yangdu about having a custom 23inch/30ounce Gelbu Special made as a machete replacement. The problem I have is trying to convince her to convince the Kami's that a 5/16ths spine is not too thin by any standards except HI's!:eek: :o
 
The problem I have is trying to convince her to convince the Kami's that a 5/16ths spine is not too thin by any standards except HI's!:eek: :o

They like 'em thick. I would guess it's both so that the khuk will last a lifetime, and 'cause hammering truck leaf springs thin is HARD work! :D
 
Nor could it!;)



I have emailed Yangdu about having a custom 23inch/30ounce Gelbu Special made as a machete replacement. The problem I have is trying to convince her to convince the Kami's that a 5/16ths spine is not too thin by any standards except HI's!:eek: :o

My 20" Sirupati is 7/16" thick next to the bolster and tapers to 1/4" near the tip. Works great as a machete. Around the time my mom bought a house back in 2003 our nice Weed eater went missing so I used my Sirupati to keep the grass and weeds down. Not only did it do a good job, but it was also fun!!

Heber
 
I have emailed Yangdu about having a custom 23inch/30ounce Gelbu Special made as a machete replacement. The problem I have is trying to convince her to convince the Kami's that a 5/16ths spine is not too thin by any standards except HI's!
That would be a very desirable and useful specification, imo. :)
 
... I would guess it's both so that the khuk will last a lifetime...

The lifetime gaurantee HI offers was the main reason given against been able to make the blade 5/16ths ...it might break and have to be replaced.

Seems that they forgot the original Gelbu Specials were thiner blades than current offerings...


My 20" Sirupati is 7/16" thick next to the bolster and tapers to 1/4" near the tip. Works great as a machete.

Heber

As a compromise 7/16th may be ok as long as it tapers quickly and comes in at 30ounces or under.


That would be a very desirable and useful specification, imo. :)

Thanks for your appreciation.

I intended the Custom Gelbu Special to be used at and above shoulder height mainly for trimming and cutting back tasks on springy woody plants like Honeysuckle and local trees having up to about 2inch diameter green branches growing right next to the walls of my house.

I hoped the lightness and reach of a 23 inch blade would allow me to avoid needing to climb up onto a ladder to control the vegetation, cutting into it from beneath.
 
How often do those bamboo cutters happen along the DOTD? And while I'm thinking, has anyone ever seen the kamis make a barong?
 
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