- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 16,397
Thanks in advance for the help! I'm working on some Framelocks with CPM-10v blades and need to figure out my game plan.
1. How hard is it to grind after heat treat? I know finishing is tough but what about grinding the whole blade after heat treat? I make folders and like to grind after hardening.
2. Can 10v be double disc ground after hardening?
I'm considering sending my blades off for heat treat then to double disc grinding before I do the final pivot hole reaming and bevel grinding. Good idea?
I understand 10v is very stable during heat treat but with these blades being for folders I feel they should be ground parallel after heat treat... also these will be chisel ground which can sometimes effect ht stability a hair (warp) which can be a lot on a framelock.
Do I simply need to do everything before heat treat and expect to lose a few to warp... or fix them with a disc grinder and measure to keep parallel? ? I normally hand lap my folder blades but I doubt that will touch the 10v.
I have a test blade going with complex chisel ground Hira Zukuri inspired geometry. I'm going to heat treat it myself to see how it does. My kiln goes to 2000 so I'll do the lower austenitizing temp and see... I'm sure I'll send off the blades though as I want them at the higher hardness/temp.
1. How hard is it to grind after heat treat? I know finishing is tough but what about grinding the whole blade after heat treat? I make folders and like to grind after hardening.
2. Can 10v be double disc ground after hardening?
I'm considering sending my blades off for heat treat then to double disc grinding before I do the final pivot hole reaming and bevel grinding. Good idea?
I understand 10v is very stable during heat treat but with these blades being for folders I feel they should be ground parallel after heat treat... also these will be chisel ground which can sometimes effect ht stability a hair (warp) which can be a lot on a framelock.
Do I simply need to do everything before heat treat and expect to lose a few to warp... or fix them with a disc grinder and measure to keep parallel? ? I normally hand lap my folder blades but I doubt that will touch the 10v.
I have a test blade going with complex chisel ground Hira Zukuri inspired geometry. I'm going to heat treat it myself to see how it does. My kiln goes to 2000 so I'll do the lower austenitizing temp and see... I'm sure I'll send off the blades though as I want them at the higher hardness/temp.