working with g-10

S

SilentJohn

Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
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hello. i ordered my first firction folder, a svord peasant. and now i want to make custom handles out of g10

im thinking either of these 3

http://usaknifemaker.com/handle-mat...ic-c-95-36/ramon-3-8-x1-5-x5-scales-pair.html

http://usaknifemaker.com/black-neon-toxic-green-scales-1-4-x-1-5-x-5.html

http://usaknifemaker.com/handle-mat...-tiger-3-8-x-5-x-1-5-scales-g10-3x3-pair.html

now i would like to know if its hard to work with g10 does it splinter , how fine grit sandpaper i should use could i do this with just a dremel because thats all i have
 
It is highly recommended that you wear a proper protective mask when sanding G-10. It's something you don't want to accidentally inhale. Think of it as asbestos.

Oh, and G-10 is very easy to work with (sand, grind, etc). It's very durable and tough so you don't have to worry about it coming apart on you, but it's easy to shape it and smooth it.
 
I agree, G-10 is pretty easy to work with and sands/drills etc pretty easily. As far as masks go, I use a half face respirator with P100 filters that are approved for both particulates and chemical vapors. They're not too pricey (around $30 - $50 at your local hardware store). They come with filters and replacement filters run about $15 - $20.
 
I don't own a buffing wheel what can I use to bring out the colors with out polishing. would a little bees wax be ok
 
Sand it with the finest sandpaper you can get. Working up to 1000-grit "automotive" wet/dry paper gives a nice finish, and is readily available at any hardware store.

I don't think wax would hurt anything, but I've never found it necessary.
 
if you don't have a dedicated buffer there are some cheap coton wheels adaptable to any drill. you'll need a vise or something to keep it stable and hand sandong to a quite fine grit is still necessary. depends on how polished you like your g10, a bit of roughness is nice for grip when the g10 isnt textured.
 
i really dont mind it not being polished i just want the colors to show and not be muted from the sanding
 
I like using Renaissance Wax for that final topcoat. It gives it a little luster and brings the color back to polished micarta and G10. Ren Wax is good to have around for other uses as well - it is a great anti-corrosion blade coating.

TedP
 
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