Working with Walrus Ivory?

SVanderkolff

SVanderkolff

Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
979
I have some outside ivory from a walrus tusk that I would like to slab and use as handle material. I have never worked with Walrus before, can you give me any pointers? What do I need to watch out for and avoid or what is the best way to cut and polish it.
Thanks
Steve
 
It will wrk much likelephant ivory...keep heat off of it, cut with woodworking bandsaw, work progressive grits to 2500, and be aware of its' tendency to have very small checks across the grain that, at times, do not appear until finishing or a quick buffing. Be very careful pinning also as it will crack.....................ugh.
 
Use sharp tools and do not let it get hot. Take your time. If you use a buffer for polishing,........use light pressure, and do not let it get hot. Did I mention not letting it get hot?
Darcy:)
 
I cut mine with an 18 or 24tpi metal bandsaw at low speeds. I haven't tried it, but I would be concerned with using a wood saw with higher speeds and more aggressive tpi.
 
When using a bandsaw to cut it, treat it like steel. Cut slowly and don't push it hard as you're cutting.

When using belt sanders, use a very light touch. Don't get impatient.

If you're going to use a Dremel to carve a shape, go slowly. I use the diamond burr wheels to cut the main grooves, then finish up with needle files.

When gluing into place, set the clamps fairly light, pressing only hard enough to keep the pieces from slipping.

Don't buff. Instead use high grit sandpaper and finish by rubbing with your fingers or a soft cloth.
 
Walrus is more brittle than elephant, and harder. It takes a great finish. Sand to 2500 at least, 8000 is better. Buff by hand or power buff lightly with matchless white.

Use sharp tools, brand new belts, light pressure, avoid all heat build up, and go slow.

Since much walrus is what is called "Fossil Walrus", it can be even harder. After 50 years it is hard, after 100 really hard, after 200 hard as stone.
 
I have worked with walrus a little bit and it was much easier to work with than I expected. As for sanding it to 2500, I didn't have to do that. i just got the scratches out up to say 600 or 800, rubbed it a little bit with 1200 polishing paper, got bored and then hit it on a 6 inch loose buffing wheel chucked into a powerful variable speed drill with white compound. No heat buildup to worry about and it looked wonderful.
 
A trick from TB and a good one for all Ivory, if its to warm to touch to your bottom lip
you are getting it too hot. I've used this method with Elephant, walrus, hippo, and warthog,
and never got a crack (around pins or otherwise) that wasn't already there.
Ken.
 
Last edited:
Good technique Ken, I use my cheek or forearm, but do the same thing when sanding and polishing ivories and MOP.
 
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