I need help. I'm trying to sharpen a cold steel knife, well actually any knife, but I'm having trouble withe the reference plate. At some angles if I'm flat I risk marring the face of the blade. And I don't know if I'm going too steep. Because I have s35vn steel, I want to sharpen to 13 degrees, I merely use my knives for cutting paper cutting boxes and whittling wood. I have some knives that are for durability. I don't know if I'm using too much pressure or not. Images would be the most helpful as I have autism. And I have a hard time imagining words. Please help.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Worksharp blade grinding attachment help
- Thread starter Joshj2002
- Start date
I have the blade grinding attachment and from past experience with it:
1: Edge performance will never beat a v grind. It is faster but you do slightly "cook" the edge which will hamper performance. I still use the grinder on larger knives typically 1095 because the edge retention with those is generally not very good anyways.
2: You can still use the sharpie technique here to find out what you are doing angle wise. Just paint the blade edge with a sharpie I usually do red, and give it a pass on the belt at low speed. See where the sharpie has been removed and then you will know what you are doing and see how to adjust your angle.
3: Less pressure is always better. Just the weight of the blade essentially do NOT press down. Downward pressure on the slack belt will dramatically increase the angle at the edge apex as well as cause the belt to ride up on the face of the blade marring the finish. Very light, go slow, and keep checking your edge with sharpie and visually regularly.
4: If you want to minimize heat on the blade I like to keep a glass of water right next to the system. After running a blade across the belt just dunk the knife into the water to cool it off before going back to the belt.
5: Be careful of the tip. Use the sharpie, and do not lift the knife up as you get to the tip just bring the tip about to the middle of the belt then pull it directly back towards you and off of the belt.
1: Edge performance will never beat a v grind. It is faster but you do slightly "cook" the edge which will hamper performance. I still use the grinder on larger knives typically 1095 because the edge retention with those is generally not very good anyways.
2: You can still use the sharpie technique here to find out what you are doing angle wise. Just paint the blade edge with a sharpie I usually do red, and give it a pass on the belt at low speed. See where the sharpie has been removed and then you will know what you are doing and see how to adjust your angle.
3: Less pressure is always better. Just the weight of the blade essentially do NOT press down. Downward pressure on the slack belt will dramatically increase the angle at the edge apex as well as cause the belt to ride up on the face of the blade marring the finish. Very light, go slow, and keep checking your edge with sharpie and visually regularly.
4: If you want to minimize heat on the blade I like to keep a glass of water right next to the system. After running a blade across the belt just dunk the knife into the water to cool it off before going back to the belt.
5: Be careful of the tip. Use the sharpie, and do not lift the knife up as you get to the tip just bring the tip about to the middle of the belt then pull it directly back towards you and off of the belt.
Can you show me a picture of point 5? I have a hard time visualizing words
Take a look here at the user guide for the blade grinder attachment. Under the troubleshooting section you will see what I am talking about. If you take the tip past the middle point of that belt you will start getting the belt rounding over the tip and taking it off. https://www.worksharptools.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Web_BGA.pdf
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 6,427
On #4: That's not going to protect the very edge apex from overheating IMHO.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2021
- Messages
- 2,540
True, but I think it's overblown, as long as you use the lowest speed and take your time. A fellow on Youtube did a test with two identical blades sharpened to the same BESS score on a stones and the KO. He then did a cut test and the KO blade performed better. Not the most scientific test ever, but not bad either IMO. First in the four-part series:
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 6,427
Sure, the edge will cut simple stuff. But when you use the blade for tougher work the edge apex that has had the heat treat ruined will fail. All that I use my WS belt sharpener on is steel parts and stuff like lawnmower blades.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2021
- Messages
- 2,540
In his test he was cutting 3/4" manilla rope which is pretty tough stuff.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 6,427
Hmm, I guess he didn't ruin the heat treat.
Yes which is why I said it wont totally protect it, but it can minimize the impact on the rest of the edge if you are very careful. On any powered abrasive, heat at the very apex of the edge is always going to be a concern.
And yeah there has been a ton of ink spilled here in other threads talking about the effect of powered systems like the Worksharp Blade grinder when it comes to heat at the apex of the blade. The reality is, most people wont really see the effect of that in everyday use of their EDC pocket knife. That and I find the people that would most worry about that kind of thing are also not the people looking to cut corners with sharpening which is what the worksharp is great for.
I have a KME that I use on my nicer blades. That being said, if I want to clean up the edge of a pair of common scissors, a cheap kitchen knife, a chopper, or dedicated cardboard knife: it is nice not having to go through all the fuss of getting the KME out and putting a gorgeous edge that is going to get marred to hell the first time I use it. I love the KME and it is great for my nicer pieces but my bruised up Rat 5? My cardboard cutting broken PM2? Those can just get cleaned up in a matter of seconds on the belt just fine.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 6,427
I use my Wicked Edge 130 on knives, scissors, and chisels. I don't put a 'gorgeous edge' on every knife. A toothy edge is what I normally prefer and very rarely go beyond 1000 grit on them. I normally only polish edges on blades that I intend to collect and not use. Users get good toothy edges.
Oh ya sure it can be done no doubt, was just saying from my perspective and moreso from the perspective of someone that would be in the market for one of these grinders. You dont exactly type in "electric powered belt sander for knife sharpeneing" into google unless you are looking for fast results.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 6,427
Yeah, probably so. I bought mine because I didn't study the forum very well. But it comes in handy for fitting firing pins and other firearm/knife steel parts, so I'm not complaining. Plus, it will work well for lawnmower blades and stuff that I don't want to use my Wicked Edge for.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2021
- Messages
- 2,540
Pick up a leather stropping belt off Amazon. Does an amazing job touching up kitchen knives and EDC in a few seconds. 90% of the time I get a better result with that than I do stropping by hand.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 6,427
I have stropping belts, strops for my Wicked Edge, and strops that I made.